
Class 



fllXl 



BookJy^Jii- 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



1885- 



\^Price^ SO Cents. 




I^Le^RS 



JIS IT IS. 



(Ijisl^ a GOf^I^CGS GU1D€ 5^0 ClLLPLaCCS OP II25GR;€SS 







W. W. WILLIAMS. 
CLEVELAND, 









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From the New England States and the East, this route has advan- 
tages possessed by no other, v/hich will be appreciated by those who 
desire to make the trip as far as possible through the Southern States, 
instead of first making a long trip w^estward through familiar territory 
before making the angle south. From Philadelphia the route is 
through almost the finest and richest agricultural region in America, 
and which continues through the Cumberland Valley to Hagerstown, 
Md., and the Potomac, from whence the rich Shenandoah Valley be- 
gins, and continues to afford a constant succession of beautiful views 
and surprises during a daylight ride from 8:io A. M. to 6 P. M, when 
Roanoke, Va., is reached. During the entire day the Blue Ridge is 
near and then far, on the left, while the North Mountains loom up 
away to the right, with laps of undulations between richly covered 
with pretty scenes in agriculture, constantly changing. This is all fa- 
miliar ground to Sheridan's old troops. "Antieiam," "Front Royal," 
and Waynesburg are all in sight from the cars, and the well-kept lime- 
stone pikes will recall many a stormy scene of the past, while the 
Natural Bridge and Luray caverns may tempt a rest. 

From Roanoke the same rich agricultural scenes continue through 
Virginia to Bristol, when the descent progresses with the same Blue 
Ridge of the AUeghenies on the left and the Cumberland Mountains 
on the right, 30 to 80 miles apart, when the familiar tramping ground 
of Burnside's troops appears at Blountville, Greenville, Blue Springs, 
Strawberry Plains, Knoxville, Fort Saunders, Loudon and Chatten- 
ooga, with a continuation of charming scenes such as the vallies of the 
Holstein, Wautaga, Clinch, Sweetwater and Tennessee rivers afford. 
The time occupied in traversing the whole distance from Harrisbnrg, 
Pa., to Cleveland, Tennessee, is relieved from monotony by reason of 
these facts, and no poor country is reached until within a few miles 
from Cleveland, Tennesse, when the foot-hills begin, and a hundred 
miles or so of poor scenery through a patch of Northern Georgia and 
Alabama, is experienced, when pine forests follow, which continue 
until Mobile and the gulf are reached. Here the invigorating salt 
air and broad waters of Pascagoula Bay bring new sensations, to- 
gether with the stir of suburban resorts as New Orleans is approached. 
By this route all monotonous scenes of worn out lands abounding in 
scrub pine and oak, are avoided, and a fair, typical picture of a rich 
portion of the South is presented. Double daily trains with Pullman 
sleepers. 

A. POPE, Gen. Pass, and T'kt. Agt., 
H. V. TOMPKINS, ROANOKE, VA. 

Eastern Pass. Agt. 303 Broadway, N. Y. 
B. W. WRENN, Gen'l Pass. Agt., 

East Tenn., Va. & Ga. R. R., 

Knoxville, Tennessee. 



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[THE FLORIDA SHORT LINE, 

East Tennessee, Virginia & Georgia R. R. 

ABSOI JTELY the shortest OF ALL ROUTES BETWEEN 

^OR.'-H LATEST AND FLORIDA. 

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tHE SHORTEST OF ALL SHORT ROUTES. 

Presenting for the Season of 1884-5 Increased Attractions and Improved Facilities. 

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Commencing- Nov. i, a Line of 
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lof the superior service performed by the Short Line. 
j Our PERFECTED ROADWAY and EXCELLENT EQUIPMENT 
[are not surpassed by any road in the South. Tourist Tickets on sale 
[during the season. 

I Closely connecting also at Atlanta with W. & A R. R. trains, and 
with R. & D. R. R. trains. 

For Rates, Tickets or other information by The Florida Short Line, 
apply to any Coupon Ticket Agent in the United States or Canada. 

6". H. HARDWICK, J. J. GRIFFIN, 

Trav. Pass. Ag't, P. O. Box 566, Chicago, HI. A. G. P. A,, Atlanta, Ga. 

B. W. WRENN, 

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Selected I^ands for Sale 

IN THE STATES OF TENNESSEE, WESTERV NORTH 

CAROLINA, GEORGL\, ALABAMA AND 

NORTHERN MISSISSIPPI 



On the First day of June, 1885, the subscriber will open offices in Huntsville, Ala., 
Atlanta, Ga., and Knoxville, Tenn., for the sale of lands lying along and contiguous 
to the East Tennessee, Virginia and Georgia Railroad system. To this end, thorough 
and systematic examinations have been and are being made of the different classes of 
property in the market, which will be brought before the special wants of applicants 
throughout the North. 

The E. T. Va. & Ga. system courses through an empire of itself, so different and 
varied are the soils and climate along its lines. East Tennessee offers the vallies of the 
Holstein, Clinch, French Broad, Watauga, Nolichucky and Pigeon rivers where beauti- 
ful rolling plantations, with limestone sub-soil abound, rich in wheat, rich in clover, rich 
in all that is necessary to the cultivated taste of a cultivated agriculturist, while westward 
are presented the vallies of the Hiwassee, Sweetwater and Tennessee, all at prices less 
than half what the same would cost in the Shenandoah Valley, with no handsomer loca- 
tions, nor better soil. Up the French Broad are rich yielding tobacco lands where one 
acre's yield will buy five acres of land ; away to the west in Northern and Central Geor- 
gia, are all varieties of cotton soil, level bottoms and rolling uplands ; in Middle Ala- 
bama the rich cotton lands of the "Black Belt" west of Selma, and North, the rich soils of 
the Valley of the Tennessee River, and further west, the prairie region of Mississippi, 
underlaid with rotten limestone as well as blue hmestone. 

There are also large tracts of timber lands easy of access, together with mineral de- 
posits such as zinc, barytes, corundum, lithographic stone, kaolin, ochres, umbers and 
mica, leaving out coal and iron which is nearly everywhere, and the marbles of Tennes- 
see, whose quarries are having all they can do. The time to visit this portion of the 
South is during the summer and not in the winter. It lies in a temperate climate and 
summer resorts are as abundant as in the North. 
Correspondence for particulars solicited. 

W. E. PEDRICK. . 



NEIV ORLEANS 



AS IT IS. 



^. 



WITH A CORRECT GUIDE TO ALL PLACES OF INTEREST. 



FEB_ 2 1805,^ J 



CLEVELAND : 
WILLIAM W. WILLIAMS. 



Copyright, 1885, 
Bv W. E. PEDRICK. 



• * * So2is la tojmelle verte 
La jeune feni^ne alertky 
Qu' tin bras fort enlacaity 
Se balancait — 

Sa bouche de camee 
Moiitrant demi-paniee 
A deux grands yeux ardents 
Ses belles dents, 

Chantait iin air Creole 
Sans rime ni parole, 
Pensif, mats exalte 
De vohiptie ! 

Et la grande har7no7iie 
De la brise benie 
Mnrmnrait tont autour 

Un chant d amour ! " 



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CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 



"The captain told father, when we went to engage passage, that 
New Orleans was on high land," said the younger daughter with a 
tremor in the voice, and ignoring the remonstrative touch of her sister. 
" On high land ? " said the captain, turning from the pilot: "Well, 
so it is— higher than the swamp, but not higher than the river," and 
he checked a broadening smile. — Grandissimex. 



New Orleans, like Niagara, cannot be seen in 
an hour. Mardi Gras excursionists come every 
year by thousands, spend a day or two, and dc: 
part with a very superficial knowledge of the con- 
glomerate freaks, the strange mixtures in the 
make up of this, the most cosmopolitan city in 
our land. 

Although the French tongue is dominant — the 
Spanish occupation changing it no more than 
Prussia changed Alsace, yet its various individu- 
alities have been religiously preserved, and Amer- 
icanisms have failed to crowd them out. 

Bienville, Carondelet, O'Reilly and the African, 
have each maintained a foothold, and preserve it 
to this hour when the African claims that where 
a hand for a shovel is needed in municipal employ- 
ment, or a candidate for office to dispense rnunici- 



4 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

pal patronage, the O'Reilly's are still in full force, 
as in the city of New York. 

HISTORY. 

In ninety-one years Louisiana changed rulers 
six times: From Louis XIV, in 1712, to the com- 
mercial dominion of Anthony Crozat. In 1717 
from Crozat to the Compagnie d' Occident — 
George Law's great Mississippi bubble company, 
so copiously illustrated by old prints. In 1731 it 
was handed back to France; in 1762 from France 
to Spain; in 1801 again to France, and in 1803 to 
the United States. 

In May, 1539, De Soto, with a fleet and thirteen 
hundred and fifty men, appeared off the Florida 
coast. After three years of wearisome and peril- 
ous journeys by land and rivers, through the in- 
terior, his body was buried beneath the waters of 
the Mississippi, and his followers reduced to three 
hundred men. They were pursued by the Indians 
to the coast, from whence they sailed to Panuco. 

No further attempts were made to penetrate 
this region by foreigners until July, 1673, when 
Father Marquette came down the Mississippi to 
the mouth of the Arkansas, and then returned to 
Canada. 

In 1682 La Salle appeared at the mouth of the 
Mississippi. He soon after went back to France, 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 5 

and two years later returned, to be murdered by 
his companions while exploring in Texas. 

Under the orders of Louis XIV, King of France, 
M. D' Iberville sailed October 24, 1698, from 
Brest, in command of an expedition to establish a 
colony in Louisiana. In January, 1699, he arrived 
off the Florida coast, and soon after established 
himself on the shores of the Bay of Biloxi — so 
named from the Biloxis, an Indian tribe of that 
locality. It is eight miles east from New Orleans, 
four miles east from Beauvoir, where ex-president 
Jefferson Davis now resides, and a favorite place 
of resort. In determining his location, Iberville 
landed upon Cat Island, about four miles from the 
coast, where he found swarms of animals which 
were a cross between a cat and a fox, and there- 
fore gave it the name. 

Souville was subsequently made governor of 
the Province and was succeeded by Bienville, who 
was removed in 17 10 and in 17 18 reappointed. 
He resolved to change the location of his seat of 
government, and sailed across Lake Ponchartrain, 
entered Bayou St. John — giving it the name — and 
landed at or near the spot now known as Bayou 
Bridge, near the Jockey Club House. 

In the following year, 17 19, the colonists were 
very much discouraged by their first flood, the 
Mississippi overflowing the town site and tempor- 



6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

arily causing its desertion. In 1722 however, the 
government offices were removed from Biloxi to 
New Orleans. 

In 1723 the town had about a hundred dwellings, 
and from appearances in a portion of the old 
French quarter, not a few of them still remain. 
It Avas laid out in sixty-six squares of three 
hundred feet each (it now numbers over three 
thousand squares). It had a frontage on the river 
of eleven squares and six squares deep. The lots 
were sixty feet front and from one hundred and 
twenty to one hundred and fifty feet deep. The 
name of the city was given it in honor of the 
Duke of Orleans, Regent of France, and many of 
its streets after prominent noblemen of France, as 
Chartres Street, the Duke of Chartres; Conti, 
Prince of Conti; Conde, Prince of Conde; Tou- 
louse, Count of Toulouse; Bourbon, Duke of 
Bourbon. In naming the various localities of the 
vicinity, many of Louis the XIV.'s notables were 
remembered. Bay St. Louis, Iberville named in 
honor of Louis IX. of France; Lake Ponchartrain, 
whose northern shores are under the protection of 
St. Tammany Parish, Count Ponchartrain, Louis 
XIV.'s minister ; Lake Maurepas,from Count Mau- 
repas, grandson of Ponchartrain ; Louisiana from 
the King. In streets the Spanish Sovereign was 
remembered in naming St. Charles, and in later 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7 

times Magazine from Rue de Magazin, where 
stood a large house or magazine for storing 
tobacco, and where large tobacco houses are now 
seen. Behind Magazine was a campo de negroes 
where cargoes of Guinea slaves were kept, and the 
street which was cut through became Camp street. 

Juiien Poydras, who wrote an epic poem on the 
achievment of Galvez against the English, was 
subsequently sent to the American Congress, and 
Poydras street took his name. Rampart street 
was the outer line of Carondelet, the Spanish 
Governor's forts. The Indian name of Missis- 
sippi, says one of De Soto's followers, was " Chuca- 
gua;" the Spanish called it Rio Escondido. In 
1727 the Jesuit fathers came over and located in 
Faubourg St. Mary, near the first district. In 
the same year seven Ursuline nuns arrived, and 
took charge of Charity Hospital, under a contract 
with the India Company. 

In 1730 they occupied the convent, corner Ursu- 
line and Chartres Streets, the old facade of which 
is now used as stores or shops, and the rear abuts 
upon the garden of the archbishop's residence. 

In 1824 the nuns removed to their present 
spacious convent and grounds, three miles down 
the river, and near the U. S. Barracks. 

In 1728 the India Company sent over a number 
of "Casket Girls," or filles a la cassette, for wives 



8 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

to the colonists. The company gave to each girl 
a casket containing articles of dress. The Ursu- 
lines took care of them until they were provided 
with husbands, and from them are descended not 
a few old families. 

In Cable's beautiful story of the Grandissimes, 
he thus introduces a fille a la cassette', " Clotilde, 
orphan of a murdered Huguenot, was one of sixty, 
the last royal allotment to Louisiana of imported 
wives. The king's agents had inveigled her away 
from France with fair stories : ' They will give 
you a quiet home with some lady of the colony. 
Have to marry ? — not unless it pleases you. The 
king himself pays your passage and gives you a 
casket of clothes. Think of that these times, 
fillette ; and passage free, withal, to — the Garden 
of Eden, as you may call it — what more, say you, 
can a poor girl want? Without doubt, too, like a 
model colonist, you will accept a good husband 
and have a great many beautiful children, who 
may say with pride : ' Me, I am no house-of-cor- 
rection-girl stock ; my mother was a j^t/e d la cas- 
sette ! '" 

And again : " Here is the way they talked in 
New Orleans in those days. If you care to under- 
stand why Louisiana has grown so out of joint, 
note the tone of those who_ governed her in the 
middle of the last century: ' What, my child,' the 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 9 

grand marquis said, 'you a fille a la cassette f 
France, for shame ! Come here by my side. 
Will you take a little advice from an old soldier ? 
It is one word — submit. Whatever is inevitable, 
submit to it. If you want to live easy and sleep 
easy, do as other people do — submit. Consider 
submission in the present case ; how easy, how 
comfortable, and how little it amounts to ! A 
little hearing of mass, a little telling of beads, a 
little crossing of one's self — what is that? One 
need not believe in them. Don't shake your head. 
Take my example. Look at me ; all these things 
go in at this ear and out at this. Do king or 
clergy trouble me? Not at all. For how does 
the king in these matters of religion ? I shall not 
even tell you, he is such a bad boy.' Fillette did 
not like the nuns, neither would she marry; so 
the marquis sent her, together with an old lady, 
to gather the wax of the wild myrtle at Biloxi, ' a 
beautiful land of low evergreen trees, looking out 
across the pine-covered sand keys of the Missis- 
sippi Sound to the Gulf of Mexico.' " 

Under the regency of the Duke of Orleans, the 
province of Louisiana was the base of the Missis- 
sippi-Bubble-Scheme of George Law, the prince 
regent's great financier. Under the representa- 
tions of the glittering prospectuses, filled with pic- 
tures of the untold riches of the valley of the 



10 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

great river; of its highlands teeming with gold, 
silver and diamonds ; of the immense grants of 
land to the company by the prince, all Paris was 
crazed ; '' Mississippi " was the bonanza stock, the 
possession of a few shares of which was a gilt- 
edged passport anywhere and enough to create a 
plethoric bank account," enabling, as the chron- 
iclers of those days relate, ' ' servants to go in 
carriages to the opera and out-dress their mis- 
tresses." But the bottom at last dropped; no 
Armour, nor Gould, nor Rockefeller, to become 
richer, but all to become poorer. ** Mississippi," 
the province of Louisiana and the Compagnie d' 
Occident were matters of sore memory to the 
ancestors of the citizens around the Place d' Arms 
for long years. 

The colony remained strictly French until 1762, 
when it was ceded to Spain, and four year later, 
Ulloa, the Spaniard, arrived in New Orleans. 
His efforts to obtain peaceful possession failing, in 
1769 Alexander O'Reilly, as a Spanish general, 
arrived with a fleet and two thousand six hundred 
men, took possession of the town in the name of 
the king, and had a first-class torchlight proces- 
sion in Jackson Square. 

Several years of insurrection and trouble ensued 
under the Spanish occupation before General 
O'Reilly got his subjects under submission. He 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 

was one of the earliest Fenians, as he drove off all 
the English traders and would admit none of 
their vessels. 

Fronting the Place d' Arms, or Jackson Square, 
on St. Peter's and St. Ann's streets, with a front- 
age of 336x84 feet upon each street, stand at 
present two large red brick blocks of stores. 
O'Reilley, in the king's name, granted this land to 
the town without reservation. The town subse- 
quently sold it to Don Andres Almonaster-y- 
Roxas, on a perpetual lease or yearly rental. His 
daughter, the Baroness Pontalba, became its pos- 
sessor and erected the buildings now upon it. 

In 1779, Count Galvez, Captain-General of 
Cuba, required all residents who had come from 
the British colonies, including, of course, the 
United States, to swear allegiance to Spain, and 
there were but one hundred and seventy in the 
entire city. 

In an old curiosity shop on St. Charles Street, 
can be found for sale old copies of Galvez' pro- 
clamations in Spanish, a half yard square. 

On the thirteenth of February, 1784, the whole 
bed of the river in front of the city was filled up 
with large cakes of ice, from two to three feet 
thick, which continued five days, when it disap- 
peared down the river. 

On the twenty-first day of Marcn, 1788, oc- 



12 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

curred the great fire, which consumed eight hun- 
dred and fifty-six houses, including the church 
fronting Place d' Arms. 

In 1 79 1 Baron de Carondelet, a colonel of the 
Spanish army and Governor of San Salvador, 
Guatemala, was appointed Governor of the Prov- 
ince of Louisiana and Florida. The monuments 
existing to his memory are the canal, which he 
built from Bayou St. John to the city in 1796, and 
Carondelet Street, which bears his name. He 
established the first watch, or police, and caused 
the streets to be lit. He also offered a premium 
to those who caused tile roofs to be placed upon 
their dwellings — as a protection against fire — some 
of which are still in use. 

In 1794 **The Moniteaur de la Louisiane " 
first appeared. 

In 1795 the first sugar plantation was started. 

In 1796 yellow fever was first introduced to 
the inhabitants. 

In 1 801 Spain ceded Louisiana to France. 

In 1803 Napoleon sold it to the United States 
for eighty millions of francs, or $16,000,000. 

In all these, changes of ownership, it was nolens 
volens with those who were the most interested, 
the occupants of the territory. 

The people acquiesced unwillingly to the de- 
mands of their powerful rulers, and a long period 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 3 

elapsed before cheerful conformity to the laws of 
the United States prevailed and the instinctive 
love of la belle France forgotten. 

" The cession had become an accomplished fact. 
With due drum-beatings and act-reading, flag- 
raising, cannonading and galloping of aid-de-camp, 
Nouvelle Orleans had become New Orleans, and 
Louisiane was Louisiana. * * ^i^ 

Citizen Fusilier asked one of the gossips: 
* What has the new government to do with the 
health of the Muses ? ' 

* It introduces the English tongue,' said the old 
man, scowling. 

* Oh, well,' replied the questioner, 'the Creoles 
will soon learn the language.' 

' English is not a language, sir ; it is a jargon ! 
Hah ! sir, I know men in this city who would 
rather eat a dog than speak English ! / speak it, 
but I also speak Choctaw.' "* 

There were children who remembered those 
days and who lived to see their native city again 
in the hands of conquerors, the Federal troops, 
and again obliged to submit to stronger powers. 

Under the rule of the United States, Bore was 
New Orleans' first mayor, with such names as 
Livaudais, Tureaud, Faurie, Villere, Fortier, Petit 
Cavalier, Derbigney and others as councilmen. 

* Grandissimes. 



14 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

In 1 80 1 Daniel Clark was United States consul 
here. He was the father of Mrs. Gen. Myra 
Clark Gaines, by whose indefatigable efforts she 
has obtained a judgment of nearly ;^2,ooo,ooo 
against the city. 

Following in the wake of noticable events is 
that of the twenty-sixth of June, 1805, when, as 
the chroniclers relate: ''An elegant barge, 
equipped with sails, colors and ten oars, ' manned 
by a sergeant and ten able and faithful hands,' " car- 
rying a single passenger — Aaron Burr, the bearer 
of letters from General Wilkenson, introducing 
him to the city. 

The New Orleans, the first steamboat down the 
Mississippi, arrived January 10, 18 12, and was 
nine days and three hours from Pittsburg. 

THE BATTLE OF NEW ORLEANS 

was the the next important event that transpired. 
The scene of this engagement has been but little 
interfered with since the memorable eighth of 
January, 18 15. General Jackson's headquarters 
were in a. small house, which was thoroughly rid- 
dled with cannon shot while the general was out 
of it. Upon the site stands a monument of marble 
about sixty feet high, upon a brick foundation, 
fifteen feet wide at its base. An iron staircase 
winds around a circular brick column to the top. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 15 

Small slits to admit light, but not convenient for 
purposes of observation, occur at intervals. The 
top is covered with warped boards, and some of 
the top stones are fallen. A general air of decay 
prevails about the structure. The approach ap- 
pears to be through private grounds, but access is 
wilHngly given. A short distance from the monu- 
ment is Chalmette Cemetery, where twelve thous- 
and five hundred Federal dead are buried. Through 
the main avenue of this cemetery, Jackson is 
said to have established his line of battle. Out- 
side the cemetery wall of brick, and but a few 
rods from it, are the famous lines of breastworks, 
its angles all plainly defined, and extending at 
right angles with the river, nearly, a half mile or 
more. The Confederates used the same lines 
during the late war, and raised them so that now 
the distance is about ten feet from the water in 
the ditch to the surface of the works, from whence 
the deadly fire of the Kentuckians and Tennessee- 
ans decimated the British ranks. Logs sheathed 
the works inside and out, with earth between and 
cotton bales. With this defense thirty-two hund- 
red men, in one hour, with a loss of but thirteen, 
defeated twelve thousand British troops, with a loss 
of three thousand. The bottoms of the ditches are 
now covered with green sluggish water, giving 
sustenance to flags and bulrushes. A few trees in 



l6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

the distance, opposite Jackson's right, denote the 
spot where General Packenham fell, while off to 
the left is seen a broad plain of meadow land 
with cattle grazing. 

Forty-seven years passed away before the 
waters of the Mississippi again echoed the can- 
non's roar in war, and the defenses which now 
commanded its mouth were tested. 

FARRAGUT AND BUTLER. 

Fort Jackson is situated on the west bank of the 
river, eighty miles below New Orleans, and cost 
the government over a million. It was a case- 
mated fort, and for this occasion mounted eighty 
guns. On the opposite and east bank is Fort St. 
Philip, mounting forty guns. Fifteen hundred 
men garrisoned both forts. The long line of 
sunken vessels which the Confederates placed there 
as obstructions had been swept away by high 
water. As an additional defense, sixteen vessels 
had been armed, the most of which, inducing two 
ironclad rams, were to support the forts. 

General Duncan, a Pennsylvanian and West 
Pointer, commanded both forts, and was considered 
a good artillerist. Colonel Higgins, formerly of 
the United States Navy, had immediate command 
of Fort Jackson. 

Three-quarters of a mile below the forts, a 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 17 

chain had been placed across the river. It was 
supported by heavy logs, thirty feet long, a few 
feet apart, to the under side of which the chain 
was pinned near the up-stream end. In a few 
months a raft of floating debris formed on the 
upper side of the chain which reached nearly up 
to the forts, and its weight and pressure became 
so great it swept the whole obstruction away and 
went to sea. It was then replaced by a lighter 
chain, buoyed by the hulks of eleven schooners. 
Fire-rafts were also prepared to descend the 
river. 

On the sixteenth of April, 1862, Farragut's 
fleet consisting of eight steamers, sixteen gun- 
boats, twenty one mortar schooners, forty-six sail 
in all, with three hundred and seven guns, as- 
cended the river twenty-five miles to the forts. 
On the evening of that day, Farragut made his 
iirst reconnoisance. 

"As we came within range, a white puff of smoke 
floated upward from Fort Jackson and a hundred 
p.ound rifle shell shrieked through the air, strik- 
ing the water and exploding about a hundred 
yards in advance of us. Farragut and Captain 
Bell had gone aloft, where they sat in the cross- 
trees taking observations. There was another 
white puff of smoke and another monster shot came 
shrieking towards us. This passed perhaps fifty 



1 8 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

feet over the heads of the gentlemen aloft, and 
struck the water two-thirds across the river. 
' Back her ' from aloft, and we drift down the river 
two or three ship's length and only just in time, 
a third furious shell striking and bursting in the 
water just at the point we had a moment before 
left. A low murmur of applause at this remarka- 
ble excellent gunnery is drawn from our men as 
we steam slowly up again. Another shot falls 
short, another bursts prematurely (this one from 
a forty-two pound smooth bore), when whiz-z-z, 
with a fearful sound, a hundred-pound shell passes 
low down between our smoke stack and main 
mast, the wind of its swift passage actually rock- 
ing one of the ship's boats hanging on the side."* 

THE FIGHT. 

The last day of preparation is usually the 
busiest. It was the seventeenth of April. The 
fleet had all reached the vicinity of the forts on 
the evening previous, and the dawn of the seven- 
teenth found the vessels anchored in a tempting 
huddle four miles below Fort Jackson. The Con- 
federates began the ball. As the sun was rising, 
a fiat-boat piled with lumber, soaked with tar and 
turpentine, was fired by them and cut adrift. A 
fresh wind was blowing up the river, and the 

"N. Y. Herald. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 9 

descent of this magnificent bonfire was slow. But 
it came at length, roaring and blazing by, causing 
a sudden slipping of cables and a general anxiety 
to get out of the way. As it was supposed to 
contain something of the torpedo kind, the Mis- 
sissippi fired a few shells into it without effect. A 
boat from the Iroquois soon tackled the monster, 
and, fixing grappling irons into the leeward end, 
towed it ashore, where it burned itself harmlessly 
away. The work of preparation then proceeded. 
The dressing of the masts of the mortar-boats 
was completed, and they looked as if prepared 
for a festival instead of a bombardment. In the 
afternoon some of the mortars were towed 
into position and fired a few experimental shells, 
fragments of which were exhibited the next day 
in New Orleans. Preparations were made for the 
proper reception of fire-rafts in case they were 
again employed. All the boats of the mortar 
fleet were provided with axes, ropes and grap- 
pling hooks; and early in the evening the boats 
were reviewed, furnishing a pretty spectacle to 
the rest of the fleet; .nay, a pair of spectacles.* 

The boats pulled around the Harriet Lane, the 
flag-ship of Captain Porter, in single line, each 
officer in charge being questioned as he passed, by 
Commodore Porter, as follows: ''Fire-buckets? 

*Parton. 



20 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

afxes? rope?" A responsive "Ay, ay, sir!" and 
the Commodore directed : "Pull around the Missis- 
sippi and return to your vessels. " The Mississippi 
being a quarter of a mile ahead, the men gave 
way sturdily in order to beat the rival boats. 
There were not less than one hundred and fifty 
boats under review, many of them ten-oared, and 
the whole scene reminded me more of a regatta 
than anything else. 

An hour after the review, the men had an 
opportunity to test, in a practical manner, their 
means for destroying fire-rafts, and they proved to 
be an admirable success. A turgid column of 
black smoke, arising from resinous wood, was 
seen approaching from the vicinity of the forts. 
Signal lights were made, the varied colors of which 
produced a beautiful effect upon the foliage of the 
river bank, and rendered the darkness intenser by 
contrast when they disappeared ; instantly a hun- 
dred boats shot out toward the raft, which now 
was blazing fiercely and casting a wide zone of 
light upon the water. Two or three of the gun- 
boats then got under way, and steamed boldly 
towards the thing of terror. One of them, the 
Westfield, Captain Renshaw, gallantly opens her 
steam valves and dashes furiously upon it, making 
sparks fly and timbers crash with the force of the 
blow. Then a stream of water from her hose 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT BS. 21 

plays upon the blazing mass. Now the small 
boats, which lay alongside, come up helter-skelter, 
actively employing their men. We see everything 
distinctly in the broad glare — men, oars, boats, 
buckets and ropes. The scene looks phantom- 
like, supernatural, intensely interesting, inextric- 
ably confused. But finally the object is accom- 
plished. The raft, yet fiercely burning, is taken 
out of range of the anchored vessels and towed 
ashore, where it is slowly consumed. As the 
boats return they are cheered by the fleet, and the 
scene changes to one of darkness and repose, 
broken occasionally by the gruff hail of a seaman 
when a boat sent on business from one vessel to 
another passes through the fleet. * 

THE SECOND DAY. 

The next morning the bombardment began. 
At daylight each of the small steamers attached to 
the mortar fleet, took four of the schooners in tow 
and drew them slowly up the river, the bright 
green foliage waving above their masts. Fourteen 
of them were ranged in line, close together, along 
the western shore behind the forest ; the one in 
advance being a mile and three-quarters below 
Fort Jackson. Six were stationed near the east- 
ern bank, in full view of both forts, two miles and 

*New York Times. 



22 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

three-quarters from St. Philip. The orders were 
to concentrate the fire upon Fort Jackson, the 
nearest to both divisions, since if that were re- 
duced, St. Philip must necessarily yield. At nine, 
before all the mortar vessels were in position. 
Fort Jackson began the conflict, the balls plung- 
ing into the water a hundred yards too short The 
gun-boat Owasco, which had steamed up ahead of 
the schooners, was the first to reply. In a few. 
minutes, however, the deep thunder of the first 
bomb struck into the overture, and a huge black 
ball, two hundred and fifteen pounds of iron and 
gunpowder, whirled aloft a mile into the air with 
the roar of ten thousand humming tops, and 
curved with majestic slowness down into the 
swamp near the fort, exploding with a dull, heavy 
sound. The mortar men were in no haste. For 
the first half hour they fired very slowly, while 
Captain Porter was observing the effect of the fire 
and giving new directions respecting the elevations, 
the length of fuse and the weight of the charge of 
powder. The calculations were made with such 
nicety that the changes in the weight of the charge 
were made by single ounces, when the whole 
charge was nearly twenty pounds. The Confeder- 
ates, too, fired slowly and badly during the first 
half hour. By ten o'clock, however, both sides 
had ceased to experiment and had began to work. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 23 

The scene at this time was in the highest degree 
exciting and picturesque. The rigging of the 
Federal fleet, just below the tnortar vessels, was 
filled with spectators from rail to mast head, who 
watched with breathless interest the rise and fall 
of every shell, and burst into cheers when a good 
shot was made. Four or five of the gun-boats 
were moving about in the middle of the river be- 
tween the two divisions of mortars, keeping up a 
vigorous fire upon the nearer batteries. Both 
forts were firing steadily and well, their shots 
splashing water over the mortar vessels on the 
eastern side, and throwing up the soft soil of the 
bank high over the masts of those on the western. 
It is wonderful how many splendid shots may be 
made at a distant object without one hitting it. 
The balls fell all around the mortar boats all day 
and only two of them were struck, and they not 
seriously injured. Not a man was hurt in the 
mortar fleet the first day except those who were 
sickened by the tremendous concussion which fol- 
lowed every discharge. The men stood on tiptoe 
and with open mouths to lessen the effect of the 
stunning sound. But men can get used to any- 
thing. They came at length to be able to sleep 
upon the deck of the mortar boats while the 
bombs were going off at the rate of two a minute. 
It was exhausting work, handling those huge globes 



24 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

of iron, and the men, too tired to go below, would 
lie down along the forecastle, falling instantly to 
sleep, and never stir till they were called to duty 
again. 

Men can bear what no other creature can. As 
the firing grew hotter, the very bees in the woods 
could not endure it, but came in swarms over the 
river and buzzed about the ears of the men in the 
rigging of the fleet. It was too much even for the 
fish in the river. Large quantities of dead fish 
floated past, killed by the close thunder of the 
guns. 

When the fire had lasted an hour and a half the 
scene was enlivened by a new feature. Over the 
woods beyond the forts are seen seven or eight 
moving columns of smoke — Confederate steamers 
— and soon three of them appear steering towards 
the forts. They soon get under cover again, and 
then three burning rafts are set afloat, but are 
soon disposed of The day wore on. At four in 
the afternoon General Butler's steamer, Saxon, 
arrived with the news that the general and his 
troops' were below and ready, and also that the 
Monitor had sunk the Merrimac. An hour later 
flames were seen bursting from Fort Jackson, and 
the fire of its guns slackened. The citadel and 
barracks within the fort were on fire. Both forts 
ceased firinor, while the conflagration lasted till 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 25 

two o'clock the next morning. At half past six 
Captain Porter gave the signal to cease firing, 
and the night passed in silence. 

THE THIRD DAY. 

The next morning, to the surprise of all, Fort 
Jackson responded vigorously to the fire of the 
mortars. At half past eleven a rifle ball crushed 
through one of the bomb schooners and sunk her 
in twenty minutes without harming a man. The 
Oneida was twice hit in the afternoon, two gun 
carriages knocked to pieces and nine men wounded. 
The fire of the fort slackened as the day wore on. 
A shell bursting in the levee had flooded the in- 
terior of the fort with water. Another broke into 
the officers' mess room while they were at dinner, 
and the ugly thing lay smoking upon the ground 
between them and the only door. They sprang 
away horrified, while the fuse went out without 
exploding the shell. 

General Butler and staff arrived in the afternoon, 
and after dark went up in a small boat to take a 
look at the cable which obstructed passage up the 
river. At night the mortars played upon the 
fort. A deserter, a Dan Rice circus performer, 
arrived, making his way from Fort Jackson to the 
fleet, lighted and guided by the fire of the mortars. 
The third day of the bombardment passed, when 



26 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

it was decided to attempt to cut the cable, which' 
was supported by hulks of schooners. The at- 
tempt by means of petards failing, the gun-boat, 
Itasca steaming up to a hulk, the men sprang onj 
board, lashed the gun-boat securely to her side.j 
A rocket shot into the air. They were discovered. 
Both forts opened fire, but, protected by the 
darkness and smoke, succeeded in severing with 
sledge and chisel the chain. The anchors of the 
hulks were slipped, the central hulk removed, 
while the current swung those upon each side 
away. 

THE FOURTH DAY. 

The fourth day of the bombardment passed 
without incident. Nearly four thousand shells, 
costing the government ;^50 each, had been fired, 
and still the forts replied with determined vigor, 
and, as usual, fire-rafts at night were regular vis- 
itors. 

THE FIFTH DAY. 

The fifth day dawned — April 22. Farragut in- 
tended this should be the last day of the bom- 
bardment, but on account of disabled gun-boats 
he decided to wait another day. 

THE SIXTH DAY. 

The sixth day the forts were silent. Not one 
gun was fired by them from morning till night. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 2/ 

The bombardment was languidly continued. 
Some said Fort Jackson had been evacuated. 
Others thought a new cable was being placed 
across the river above the forts. Men at the 
mast-head reported twelve steamers above the 
forts moving about briskly. Occasionally one of 
these came down to the old cable to reconnoiter, 
draw the fire of a gun-boat and return. No in- 
ference could be drawn from the absence of a flag 
at Fort Jackson, for it had been taken down after 
the first day. The general commanding in New 
Orleans wrote that day to General Duncan : " Say 
to your officers and men that their heroic forti- 
tude in enduring one of the most terrific bom- 
bardments ever known, and the courage which 
they have evinced, will surely enable them to crush 
the enemy whenever he dares to come from under 
cover. Their gallant conduct attracts the admira- 
tion of all, and will be recorded in history as 
splendid examples for patriots and soldiers." 

Duncan reported: ' ' Heavy and continued bom- 
bardment all night, and still progressing. No fur- 
ther casualties, except two men slightly wounded.'' 

At sunset of the twenty-third, Farragut's ar- 
rangements were all completed for running by the 
forts. The mortar boats were to cover the attack 
by as rapid firing as possible. The Harriet Lane, 
Westfield, Owasca, Clifton, Miami and Jackson, 



m 
28 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

were to engage the water-battery below Fort Jack- 
son. Farragut, with the largest ships, the Hart- 
ford, Richmond and Brooklyn, was to advance 
upon Fort Jackson. Captain Bailey, with the 
Cayuga, Pensacola, Mississippi, Oneida, Varuna, 
Katahdin, Kineo and Wissahickon, was to take 
the east bank and engage Fort St. Philip. Cap- 
tain Bell, with the Scioto, Iroquois, Pinola, Itasca 
and Kennebec, was to advance up the middle of 
the river and engage the Confederate fleet above 
the forts. 

At half-past three o'clock on the morning of 
the twenty-fourth, the squadron commenced to 
move. It was two miles to the forts, and five 
miles to a point beyond range. 

The fleet advanced in the appointed three lines, 
one ship close behind the other. Captain Bailey, 
on the eastern side, caught the first fire. His 
Cayuga had first passed through the opening in 
the cable, when both forts discovered him and 
opened upon him with every available gun. The 
balls flew around the ship; but the firing was 
much too high, and he was seldom hulled. As 
yet the Cayuga was silent, and the Confederate 
gunners, as they afterwards said, could see nothing 
whatever ; they averred that they aimed no gun 
that morning at an object except when the flash 
of Union guns gave them a momentary delusive 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 29 

target. Bailey's division steamed on three-quar- 
ters of a mile under this fire without firing a shot 
in reply, guided on the way by the flashes of St. 
Philip. Running in at length, close under the 
fort, he gave it a broadside of grape and canister 
as he passed. The Pensacola, Mississippi, the 
Varuna and rest of the division followed close be- 
hind, each delivering broadsides of small shot and 
keeping steadily on in the wake of the Cayuga. 
All of this division passed the forts with little 
damage except the Portsmouth losing her tow, 
drifted down the river. 

The middle division of Captain Bell was less 
fortunate. The Scioto, Iroquois and Pinola passed 
by under the most tremendous fire, but the Itasca 
received, opposite Fort St. Philip, a cataract of 
shot, one of which pierced her boiler and she 
dropped down the river. The Winona, staggered 
by the annihilating fire, retired. The Kennebec 
was caught in the cable, lost her way in the dark- 
ness and smoke, and returned to her anchorage. 

Commodore Farragut meanwhile was having, to 
use his own language, "a rough time of it." The 
Hartford advanced to within a mile and a quarter 
of Fort Jackson before receiving its attention. 
Farragut was in the fore-rigging, peering into the 
night with his glass. Then the fort opened upon 
the ship a fire that was better aimed than that 



30 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

which had saluted Captain Bailey. The ship was 
repeatedly struck. Two guns were mounted 
upon the forecastle which replied to the fire of the 
fort while steaming directly for it. At the " dis- 
tance of half a mile, broadsides of grape and 
canister drove every man in the fort under cover ; 
but the casemate guns were in full play, and fhe 
Hartford was well peppered. The Richmond 
quickly followed and deluged the fort with grape 
and canister. The Brooklyn, the last of this di- 
vision, was caught by one of the cable hulks and 
lagged behind. Captain Craven of the Brooklyn 
relates: "I extricated my ship from the rafts; 
her head was turned up stream, and in a few 
minutes she was fully butted by the celebrated 
ram, Manassas. She came butting into our star- 
board gangway, first firing from her trap-door 
when within about ten feet of the ship, directly 
toward our smoke-stack, her shot entering about 
five feet above the water-line and lodging in the 
sand bags which protected our steam drum. I 
had discovered this queer looking gentleman, 
while forcing my way over the barricade, lying 
close into the bank, and when he made his ap- 
pearance the second time, I was so close to him 
he had no opportunity to get up his full speedy 
and his efforts to damage me were frustrated, our 
chain-armor proving a perfect protection to our 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 3 1 

sides. He soon slid off and disappeared in the 
darkness." 

Most of the ships had run by, and Farragut, 
having escaped Fort Jackson, was advancing to- 
wards the other fort when a new enemy appeared 
—the fleet of Confederate gun-boats lying in order 
of battle just above St. Philip. Captain Bailey, 
with the Cayuga, was in the midst of them be- 
fore he knew it. The gun-boats ran at him full 
tilt, he answering with eleven-inch solid shot, com- 
pelling them to surrender before the other ships 
came up. The Varuna and Oneida came dashing 
in to the rescue; the former was struck by the 
iron-clad, Morgan, and again by another iron-clad, 
crushing in her sides, to which she replied by five 
eight-inch shells abaft her armor, settling the 
ram and driving it ashore in flames. The Varuna 
then sank. During this time the Morgan was 
crippled and surrendered to the Oneida. Mean- 
while, Farragut was battling with the forts, pouring 
broadsides into St. Philip and receiving the fire of 
both. Suddenly a huge fire-raft blazed up before 
him, revealing the ram Manasses behind it, push- 
ing it towards the Hartford. The latter was soon 
ablaze and soon extinguished, after backing off 
and getting clear of the raft. The Manassas then 
made a dash at the Mississippi, or both at each 
other, when the former dodged the latter and ran 



32 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

ashore, the Mississippi pouring a broadside into 
her. She soon afterwards drifted down the stream. 

The scene when the fire caught the flag-ship, 
which was the crowning moment of the battle, is 
beyond the power of words to describe. The 
mere noise was an experience unique to the oldest 
officers : — twenty mortars, a hundred and forty-two 
guns in the fleet, a hundred and twenty on the 
forts ; the crash of splinters, the explosion of 
boilers and magazines ; the shouts, the cries, the 
shrieks of scalded and drowning men ! Add to 
this the belching flashes of the guns, the blazing 
raft, the burning steamboats, the river full of fire. 

The Cayuga was struck forty-two times. On 
arriving at the quarantine station the Confederate 
camp then surrendered. The fleet soon followed 
and anchored. The dead, thirty in number, were 
buried, and the wounded, one hundred and nine- 
teen, duly cared for. At eleven a. m. the fleet 
moved up the river towards New Orleans, while 
the garrisons of the forts surrendered to Captain 
Porter, who had remained with the mortar boats 
below. 

At one o'clock on the afternoon of the twenty- 
fifth, Farragut's fleet lay at anchor off the head of 
Canal Street, having met no obstacles in the way 
of batteries except at Chalmette, Jackson's old 
battle ground, where a brief engagement ensued, 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 33 

with but trifling loss upon either side. During 
the evening before, the burning of cotton and 
ships began. Fifteen thousand bales of cotton on 
the levee, a dozen cotton ships and fifteen or 
twenty steamboats in the river; an unfinished ram 
and vast heaps of coal, wood and timber. Hogs- 
heads of sugar and molasses were stove in by 
hundreds. Parts of the levee ran molasses, while 
thousands of negroes carried off sugar in aprons, 
pails and baskets. 

The evacuation of the city by the Confederate 
troops had taken place. The morning report of 
the Confederate General, Lovell, on the day of 
evacuation, showed his force to have been but 
two thousand and eight hundred men ; only two 
hundred more than the Spanish General O'Reilly 
brought with him to capture the city nearly a hun- 
dred years before. 

At eight o'clock Sunday morning, April 27, 
Captain Morris of the Pensacola, which lay off the 
United States mint, sent a few men ashore, who 
hoisted the United States flag upon the mint. It 
remained but a few hours when it was removed by 
the exasperated citizens. 

On the twenty-ninth. Captain Bell with a hun- 
dred marines landed upon the levee, marched 
into the city, hauled down the Confederate flags 
from the mint and custom-house, and hoisted in- 



34 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Stead the flag of the United States. Captain Bell 
locked the custom-house and took the key to his 
ship. 

At noon, May i, General Butler and his trans- 
ports arrived, and disembarked at four p. m. with the 
Thirty-first Massachusetts, Fourth Wisconsin and 
Everett's Battery of Artilery, marching down the 
levee to Poydras Street, thence to St. Charles, 
thence to Canal and the custom-house, where the 
Thirty-first were quartered. The Twelfth Con- 
necticut bivouacked upon the levee, and next day 
camped in Lafayette Square, opposite the city hall. 

General Butler then ordered the St Charles 
Hotel, which was closed, to be opened for the 
accommodation of himself and staff. He prepared 
his proclamation, as Galvez and other rulers had 
done before him, but the printers wouldn't publish 
it. He then placed his own compositors in the 
True Delta office, who set up and struck it off, 
proclaiming martial law. The circulation of Con- 
federate money was forbidden, and payment of 
municipal taxes suppressed. The mayor and 
common council were arrested and brought before 
him at the St. Charles, where Pierre Soule, for- 
mer United States Senator, defended them. He 
was subsequently arrested and sent to Fort War- 
ren, in Boston Harbor. A fine bust of Senator 
Soule can be seen in the Supreme Court room in 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 35 

the old Spanish Cabildo building in Jackson 
Square, also a portrait of the late Judah P. Benja- 
min, the Confederate Secretary of State, together 
with that of General Grimes, General Andrew 
Jackson's Adjutant-General. 

Algiers was next occupied by Federal troops 
as well as CarroUton. 

Commodore Farragut's gun-boats proceeded to 
their work up the river to Baton Rouge, Natchez 
and Vicksburg, while the inhabitants of New Or- 
leans remained passively waiting to see which way 
the tide would turn. 

Twenty-two years have passed, and this first 
Tuesday in November, 1884, when the great 
question as to who shall govern these United 
States is being worked out, the writer has seen 
at the polls in the city of New Orleans, a ticket, 
with the words printed in green ink, *' For Presi- 
dent, Benjamin F. Butler." 

MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT. 

The city is divided into seven representative 
districts and seventeen wards. 

The Common Council is composed of thirty 
members. The mayor, treasurer, comptroller, 
commissioner of public works, commissioner of 
police and public buildings, are elected every four 
years and receive in salaries ^3,500 each, except 



36 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

the police commissioner, who receives ;^3,ooo. 
The city attorney is paid ;^3,500 a year with nec- 
essary assistants. The civil engineer gets ;^2,500. 
There are four police courts, who in addition per- 
form the duties of justices of the peace. They 
receive each ;^2,5oo per annum, and are entitled 
to four clerks each, whose saleries aggregate 
$4,200. In those districts containing police 
courts, the office of justice of the peace has been 
abolished. 

The markets of the city are farmed out to indi- 
viduals, who have the collection of the rentals. 
They return in the neighborhood of ;^200,ooo per 
annum. The stalls are let by the day. and are 
open from 3 a. m. till noon. 

The gambling houses, in common with all li- 
censes, pay a large portion of their gains to the 
municipal government, aggregating a very large 
amount, and which in turn is ostensibly devoted 
to alms houses. 

The report of the Board of Health gives the 
present population as follows: 

Whites 171,000 

Colored 63,000 

Total ■ 234,000 

In 1 86 1 the valuation of the real estate, per- 
sonal property and slaves was : 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 37 

Real Estate $87,434,550 

Personal Property 31,148,733 

Slaves 6,609,210 

Total , $125,192,403 

At which time the ratio of taxation on every 
one hundred dollars was one and one-half per 
cent. 

In 1863 the valuation of real estate and per- 
sonal property was reduced as follows : 

Real Estate $86,000,000 

Personal Property 14,000,000 

Total. . . ., : $100,000,000 

And the ratio of taxation on every one hundred 
dollars was one per cent. 

From the last mentioned total valuation it has 
fluctuated from its highest points in 1 870, when 
it was 140,000,000 to its lowest in 1880 of $gi,- 
000,000. 

In 1883 the total valuation was ^113,000,000. 
Rate of taxation on every one hundred dollars 
two per cent. 

It would be a difficult problem to attempt to 
figure out the prosperity of the city or its retro- 
grading movement by the assessor's tables. The 
trade and commerce of the city may increase and 
quadruple ; its merchants acquire wealth and build 
palatial homes, but the influence of none of this 



V 



38 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 



is seen except in the increased aggregate amount 
of funds required for the city's bugdet. 

The total receipts for six months ending De- 
cember 31, 1883, were $2,308,948.23, admitting 
the first half year to be the same, the aggregate 
would be $4,617,896.46, or over four and a half 
millions per annum. 

The total bonded debt of New York city, in 
round numbers, is about $125,000,000, less its 
sinking fund of ^^3 5, 000,000, being $90,000,000 
net, and about eight per cent, of the assessed 
valuation of its real estate. That of New Orleans 
is about eighteen per cent, of the assessed valuation 
of its real estate. 

The total bonded and floating debt of the city 
at the close of 1883, according to the comptroller's 
report, was ;^ 18, 672, 947. 13. 

The Myra Clark Gaines judgment against the 
city, now being on appeal, amounts in addition 
to ^1,925,667,82. 

Of this total indebtedness, there has been 
funded into what are called premium bonds, about 
$8,000,000, drawing five per cent, and payable, 
both principle and interest, when — the wheel says 
so. 

EVERYBODY PLAYS IT. 

Everybody plays something. From the street 
fakir who shows you (?) how to draw the right 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 39 

card (next time), from the Rue Royale keno, 
rqulette and poker temptations, to the twenty-five 
cent -daily, and the five-dollar monthly drawings 
of Generals Beauregard and Early's Louisiana 
lotteries, we ascend to the quarterly drawings in 
April, October, January and July, of the lottery 
of the city fathers, by which drawings, as much 
of the city's bonded debt is paid (known as pre- 
mium bonds), as there are funds to apply. These 
bonds are for twenty dollars each, and draw five 
per cent, per annum from July 1875 ; neither prin- 
cipal nor interest is paid until the wheel of for- 
tune says they are entitled to payment; then such 
bond numbers as are draw)i from the wheel, are 
paid, both principal and interest ; and in addition, 
as an inducement for holders of other bonded 
indebtedness of the city to exchange their bonds 
for those of this class, prizes aggregating $50,000 
are offered and paid to the holders of the lucky 
numbers three months afterwards. 

The administrator of finance, in his report advo- 
cating this method, says: *'The City Council, in 
its efforts to find a solution to this question, has 
been compelled to abandon the ordinary forms of 
finance as unequal to the occasion, and to seek 
new and perhaps novel means of meeting the 
exigency." 

The extensive appliances of the credit system 



40 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

are by no means confined to the city. One may 
see in brokers' windows, warrants of the Auditor 
of State, issued in payment of salaries of judges 
and other court officers; for payment of work 
upon levees; for services of officers of election, 
and various other duties performed, which war- 
rants are bought, sold and dealt in as so much 
merchandise, to be paid when there is money in 
the treasury to pay with. 

The entire State, together with Alabama and 
Mississippi, are all afflicted with a system of credit 
which is sapping the very roots of the vegetation 
which grows. By acts of the legislature, the 
planter is permitted to give his mortgage-note, 
covering his personal property and the crop to be 
raised upon his plantation, to the merchant, in 
payment for supplies furnished. If the crop is 
not sufficient to meet the note — which is often the 
case — the next crop or succeeding crops are cov- 
ered by it until paid. By this system, hope lends 
enchantment to the prospect of a fair crop with 
good prices, and the planter indulges in many 
imaginary wants which, if money was required to 
possess them, he would do without. He also per- 
mits himself to pay from one to two per cent, a 
month for the use of the supplies, and a very 
large profit to the merchant upon the goods, be- 
sides. Upon a capital of ;^io,ooo, the merchant 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 41 

can do a business of ^50,000 a year. He sends 
these notes to his factors in the cities, who furnish 
him the funds to draw against as often as his busi- 
ness requires. The planter has no choice of mar- 
kets — he is tied hands and feet. He grows poorer 
while the merchant grows richer. Why not plant 
less cotton and more necessaries of life? Because 
the merchant wants only cotton, rice or sugar; he 
will not receive a mortgage upon mixed farming — 
he desires to furnish corn, flour and bacon himself 
Georgia has repealed the act. The strong and 
active competition of cotton factors in the streets 
of its towns and cities, thronged as they are dur- 
ing the fall months with hundreds of teams loaded 
with cotton, whose owners are more independent, 
illustrates forcibly the difference in the condition 
of the producers. 

» 

THE STONE PAVEMENTS 

of the city, considering the length of time they 
have been laid, are excellent. They consist of 
blocks of granite over a foot square, and quite as 
thick. They were brought from the New England 
States in cotton vessels as early os 1850, and con- 
stant use has had but little effect upon them. As- 
phalt pavement is being laid upon St. Charles Ave- 
nue, and when completed will be, in connection 
with the shell road, a favorite outlet for driving. 



42 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

DRAINAGE. 

The system of drainage employed is of great 
interest to strangers. Standing upon Canal Street 
at almost any point, and looking towards the 
levee, the hulls of the river steamboats appear to 
sit high — above the point of observation, and they 
do ; our observing point is below the water level. 
Along the levee are laid water mains, into which 
engines located at the head of Celeste Street, and 
also near the French Market, draw the water from 
the river, force it into these mains, from which 
hydrants discharge it into the gutters abutting 
upon the levee, and the grade being down, the 
water continues to flood the gutters by a current 
until it is discharged into canals beyond the 
business portions of the city, which run at angles 
to these gutters. When the latter are kept clean, 
free from obstructions, the drainage is good ; but 
they become often obstructed, particularly where 
the streets are not paved. When the water 
level is reached, as at those canals which are the 
repositories for all sewerage, the accumulation is 
moved by ** draining machines," of which there 
are three, having two wheels each ; one at Dublin 
Avenue, one at Bayou St. John, and one at Lon- 
don Avenue. They are the old Dutch paddle 
wheels, about thirty feet in diameter, with paddles 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 43 

four feet wide and six feet longf. These revolve 
and paddle or push the water into a canal fojir 
feet higher than where the opposite side of the 
wheel enters the receiving canal, and thus the 
water is elevated that height to flow down to Lake 
Ponchartrain, a distance of from four to six miles, 
and receiving but these few feet of fall in that 
distance. The Canal Street, cars towards Metarie 
road, run near one of these machines. As before 
stated, where the streets are paved and the gutters 
kept free from accumulated rubbish, there is a 
current in them from the hydrants at the levee to 
the canals at the west end, but obstructed as 
they are sometimes allowed to become, the water 
often gets stagnant. During high water, the Mis- 
sissippi is often ten or twelve feet above the level 
of the back part of the city. 

Below the Celeste Street and levee pumping 
station a couple of squares, is located the water- 
works engines. The reservoir is two squares back 
of them. The top of the reservoir is about twen- 
ty-five feet above the pavement. A stand-pipe 
about seventy feet high gives pressure enough, to- 
gether with the engines, to send water from a noz- 
zle about seventy-five feet. Many people take the 
water at their residences, but for drinking purposes 
rain water filtered is mostly used, as the infallible 



44 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

huge, high, round wooden tank at every house 
plainly shows. 

AREA. 

Although the maps of the city show a great 
area of territory extending from Lake Ponchar- 
train to the river, and from the west line of Car- 
^ollton to the lower protection levee, the searcher 
of locations beyond Greenwood cemetery. Jockey 
Club grounds and Elysian Fields will find it diffi- 
cult to trace the surveyor's stakes in the meadows 
and swamps which abound. 

STREETS. 

The streets of the city north of Canal have 
strictly preserved their identity in narrownesSj 
names and ancient architecture. Canal Street was 
the neutral ground between French New Orleans 
and the cosmopolitans who inhabited the south 
side of it. There the business houses and resi- 
dences are more American, and the further one 
goes towards the Exposition, residences and 
grounds become more spacious and shrubbery 
more abundant. 

Frequently the streets have duplicate names, 
and in numbering there is great irregularity. 
Nearly all the streets which cross Canal lose their 
identity on reaching it. St. Charles, south of Canal^ 
becomes Royal on the north; Carondelet becomes 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 45 

Bourbon ; Baronne, Dauphine ; .Dryades, Bur- 
gundy, etc.; while on the other hand many a 
street will course around squares, angles and 
places and still keep its name, as does Annuncia- 
tion Street. Upon the subject of streets the 
Tunes- Democrat says : 

There is room for a great deal of improvement on all these points. 
It would be impossible, we suppose, to get the name of Dumaine 
Street spelled as it should be, " Mame" Street. The Creole speUing, 
which has made the preposition a part of the name, is so old now that 
it would be well nigh impossible to correct it with anything less than a 
revolution. But why should we continue to misspell it Dryades instead 
of Dryads, and Prytania instead of Prytanea? And why will the city 
authorities get it, nine times out of ten, Philip Street ? 

It was only a few years ago that, by using the adjectives North and 
South, we were able to distinguish between the two Ramparts and two 
Claibornes. We have made no similar arrangement to distinguish 
other duplicates. Who can tell where No. — Union Street is? It 
may be near Carondelet Street or near Elysian Fields. We have a Jos- 
ephine up-town and a Josephine down-town, five miles away from each 
other ; a Villere Street in New Orleans proper and another in Algiers ; 
a Chestnut Street in the city and another in Carrollton ; and much 
more of the same sort to create confusion. 

But it is in the numbering of its streets that New Orleans has gone 
mad. In this respect it is the worst city in the world. With nearly 
five hundred streets only ninety-five, or less than a fifth, are numbered, 
and only a very small portion of these. These numbers, moreover, 
are irregular and uncertain, break off at one point, begin two blocks 
away, break off again and begin again. Two out of three houses in 
New Orleans bear no distinguishing marks at all. And again we deal 
in duplicates. Constance Street is numbered up to Calliope, and 
starts there again from No. i. There are consequently two Nos. 6 
Constance Street, No. lo. No. i6, and so on up. 

Peters Street is worse. It begins at Canal and is numbered correctly 
enough to St. Louis, but here this stops. It begins afresh at Dumaine, 
going back to No. i, and so contmues to St. Philip, and finally it 



46 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

starts at Ursulines again at No. i. There are consequently three Nos. 
2 North Peters Street, in addition to a No. 2 South Peters Street, 
another Peters Street (neither north nor south), a Peters Avenue and a 
Peter Street (in Algiers). A fine chance this to mislead a stranger. 

A native poet has rung out the names of some 
of the streets in the following lines : 

I wandered away from my heart's dear home, 

I roved over land and sea ; 
And back to my home again I come. 

And peace comes back to me. 
I hasten along from the Esplanade 

And impatient wend my way, 
And reach Canal Street — stop and gaze 

At the Bronze of Henry Clay. 

I jump in a white car — start for home. 

And we're rushing along Baronne, 
Until we reached Tivoli's ring — 

I am all in the car alone. 
Till it stops — and a sweet-faced little maid 

Gets on — and I pass her fare. 
While the sunshine gleams like a liquid beam 

On her shimmering golden hair. 

We make the turn, and I sudden look 

At the mythological names, 
And I read Calliope — through my brain 

An inspiration flames. 
I rave, ' ' Calliope, blest be Thou, 

Thou mother of Orpheus, send 
Or come to me and direct my pen ; 

Thy genius, Goddess, lend." 

Next Clio ! Hist'ry's Muse, and then 

Erato — Sweet lyric Muse, 
Thou Jupiter's child — oh bless me too, 

Thou sure wilt not refuse : 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 47 

And merry Thalia, lend Thy smile ; 

Melpomene, sound Thy lyre — 
I think of Thee, I am charged the while. 

When Thou speakest my soul's on fire. 

Terpsichore— Dance ! let Thy Grace be seen, 

That my heart may dance with Thee. 
Euterpe, play on Thy soulful Flute, 

Polymnia — a hymn for me. 
And — here's Felicity, Heaven itself, 

What more is yet to win? 
The goddesses gone, on earth again, 

And TO-DAY must again begin. 

St. Andrew comes, and a peaceful calm, 

And 1 turn to the little maid : 
" Will you tell me the name of the next street, Miss? 

Pray do ! never be afraid." 
And she sweetly smiled with a pretty blush. 

Each simple word between, 
" I live on that street, it is named like me. 

And we're both called Josephine ! " 

" May I get out there? May I go to your door? 

May I tell what I thought and saw ? " 
"Oh, no," said she ; "but you might, perhaps, 

Call in and see my papa." 

* ♦ * ♦ * * 

I got off the car, forgot each muse. 

Through couleur de rose — all's seen ; 
I saw papa, and he blest us both, 

And I'm happy with Josephine. 

Canal Street is a great boulevard, and at night 
one of the best lighted streets in America. A row 
of electric light poles, not too high, are placed 
through its centre, while the electric lights from 
the store fronts are prevented by the wide bal- 



48 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

conies from throwing their rays above and are 
concentrated below. Canal Street is about one 
hundred and twenty feet from curb to curb, and 
flanked by broad stone sidewalks. It is the ob- 
jective and starting point for all horse-car lines, 
and from it one can take the cars for Chicago, 
Cincinnati, Washington or New York. 

Its stores are richly laden with goods, and its 
windows display choice French importations of 
dress fabrics, kid gloves and fancy articles. Other 
windows have tempting exhibits of choice French 
candies and elegant displays of boned turkey hid 
in crystal jellies, together with other appetizing 
dishes of the French restaurant. The signs of 
the drug stores are: '' Pharniacie Francaise,'' or 
'' Botica Espanola.'' Upon the pavements are 
flower women in attitudes like those of ancient 
Rome, surrounded with huge boquets of roses 
and chrysanthemums, in combinations peculiar 
to New Orleans. Here sits the old turbaned neg- 
ress, brushing with peacock feathers the flies 
that gather over her sweetmeats while she laugh- 
ingly mutters French at the fezed Turk as he 
passes by in his flowing robes. 

Richly attired ladies and children meet nimble 
Chinese : Boston and New York young men ; 
copper colored Choctaws ; black-eyed Creoles 
with fine forms and well fitting costumes; Spanish 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 49 

Creoles in mourning, whole families, the children 
in deepest black with the whitest of stockings ; 
bronzed Mexican greasers, with dull eyes, few 
hairs upon their chins, and covered with the queer 
sombrero; Mexican military officers wearing eye 
glasses ; Mexican sol-diers with ill fitting garments ; 
British sailors in slouchy corduroys ; French 
sailors better dressed ; Mississippi stevedores with 
cotton-hooks hanging from their belts ; the black 
plantation hand with bulging eye-balls and clothes 
shining with cane juice. All these may be seen 
any pleasant day ; but Canal Street is broad, 
broad enough for all this queer conglomerate 
medley of people of such diverse individualities. 

During the carnival season, the store fronts 
above the awnings have tiers of seats from whence 
thousands of spectators view the processions. 

The Clay statue on Canal Street is the centre 
of gravity for all crowds and open air meetings. 
Henry Clay stands there with outstretched arm, 
which, to the angry crowds of labor strikers or 
excited political gatherings, is a presence of peace 
and moderation. It is said that a portion of the 
inscription on the base was partially obliterated 
during the rebelHon ; but on the other hand it is 
denied that any obliteration has taken place other 
than the action of the elements. 



50 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

PARKS. 

There really are none. The extensive meadow- 
lands, heretofore known as the City Park, are the 
grounds occupied by the Exposition, and were 
noted only for a fine group of grand old live oaks 
loaded with pendant moss — beautiful temptations 
for many an artist's sketch book. In the north- 
east end of the city, between Metarie Road and 
Bayou bridge, another area of ground belonging 
to the city contains a circular sign **City Park,'^ 
but it is wholly given up to pasturage of cows and 
goats, and shooting for sportsmen. 

There are some pretty squares or places, the 
most noted of which is Jackson Square. It was 
called Place d' Arms until the erection of the 
equestrian statue of General Andrew Jackson, 
when it took his name. It is bounded by St. 
Peter, St. Ann, Chartres and Decatur streets. 
The Cathedral faces it, and all the notable gather- 
ings of early days were at this place. The walks, 
flowers, orange, magnolia, fig and other trees and 
shrubs are well kept, and roses are found in 
bloom there almost any month in winter. The 
general's bronze steed is fiery, and his sword's 
scabbard hangs with the convex side up ; but his 
wrinkled forehead gives him a determined look, 
intent upon promulgating the sentence which 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 51 

Butler caused to be chiseled on the granite base, 

July 4, 1862 : "The Union Must and Shall be 

Preserved." 

lafayette square, 

A short distance above the St Charles Hotel,, 
and between St. Charles and Camp Streets. It is 
a very pretty spot and well shaded. In the be- 
ginning of May, 1862, on the arrival of Butler's 
transports, the Twelfth Connecticut Infantry 
camped in it Here is a marble statue of Benjamin 
Franklin, by Hiram Powers. The City Hall, 
with its old Doric columns, fronts the square. It 
contains the mayor's and various other municipal 
offices, together with the city library. 

MARGARET'S PLACE 

is at the junction of Camp, Prytania and Clio 
streets. Here is a small plat of ground devoted 
to walks, fountains and grass. In the centre is 
a marble statue of Margeret Haugery and a little 
child. She was an elderly lady of great benev- 
olence, the founder of an orphan asylum, and be- 
loved by all who knew her. It is said this is a 
perfect likeness of her as she used to sit in front 
of her little cracker bakery, from whence grew a 
large business and fortune. She was very fond of 
children, and none ever went from her empty- 
handed. 



52 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

COLISEUM PLACE, 

on Coliseum Street, a few squares above. It con- 
tains a breathing spot of walks and grass, bordered 
with shade trees. 

LEE PLACE, 

The corner of St. Charles and Delord streets. 
From a large mound in the centre arises a beauti- 
ful column of marble as high as that of the mon- 
ument on Boston Common, surmounted with a 
bronze statue of General Robert E. Lee. This 
statue was unveiled in the spring of 1884, and it 
is a great credit to the city. 

CONGO SQUARE, 

corner of Orleans and Basin streets. It con- 
sists of a park of about five acres. Here in the 
"good old days" is where the bull fights were held, 
and *'01d Creole days" thus describes a bull 
fight audience : 

"In the high upper seats of the rude amphithea- 
tre, sat the gayly decked wives and daughters of 
the Gascons, from the ^netaries along the ridge, 
and the chattering Spanish women of the market, 
their shining hair unbonneted to the sun. Next 
below, were their husbands and lovers in Sunday 
blouses, milkmen, butchers, bakers, black-bearded 
fishermen, Siccilian fruiterers, swarthy Portuguese 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 53 

sailors, in little woolen caps, and strangers of the 
graver sort; mariners of England, Germany and 
Holland. The lower seats were full of trappers, 
smugglers, Canadian voyageiirs, drinking and sing- 
ing; Americaifis, too — more's the shame — from 
the upper rivers, who will not keep their seats, 
who ply the bottle, and who will get home by- 
and-by and tell how wicked Sodom is ; broad- 
brimmed silver-braided Mexicans, too, with their 
copper cheeks and bats' eyes, and their tinkling 
spurred heels. Yonder in that quieter section 
are the quadroon women in their black lace 
shawls, and below them are the turbaned black 
women." , 

Orleans market and the parish prisons are near 
Congo Square. The prisons are where General 
Butler kept a few Confederate prisoners, and are 
of quaint old-fashioned architecture. They are 
also in close proximity to the fleet of oyster 
smacks which can always be found in Old Basin. 

THE MARKETS. 

There are sixteen markets in the city, the most 
noted of which is the old French Market. 

It extends from St. Ann's to Ursulines streets, 
and from St. Peter to Decatur. Take the horse- 
cars from Canal, near the custom-house. Here 
are gathered together the most conglomerate 



54 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

medley of productions to the manor born and im- 
ported that can be found in these United States. 
In the *'good old days" it was called ^^ Halle des 
boucherfs,''^ and to-day these old stalls are presided 
over by the Gascons, who cut rump steaks at a bit 
a pound, and chop beef hash for you on the spot, 
to order. The Gascons rule the meats, while the 
Dagos^the Sicilians are nick-named Dagos, an 
appellation as unpleasant to them as ''nigger" is 
to a negro — control the fruits, and the jargon of 
both, mingled with the language of the Creole, is 
novel at least to the stranger. 

Choctaw squaws with pappooses — ^just as pure 
Choctaw as when La Salle first appeared here — 
are squatted outside the buildings, surrounded 
with a display of curious herbs for sale. Green 
sweet bay leaves, also dried and powdered, sassa- 
fras roots, gumbo for soups, pieces of palmetto 
roots, for use as scrubbing brushes, together with 
many herbs of this lattitude. 

Here in winter may be seen a full assortment 
of a northern spring market. Here are green 
peas, string beans, lettuce and young beets. 
Yams a half a yard long, long strings of garlic, 
and chickens dressed with the tail feathers left in. 
At the fruit stalls may be found Michigan apples 
alongside of muscat grapes from Spain and Cal- 
ifornia, with catawbas from Ohio Bananas, 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 55 

pomegranates, plantains, oranges, mandarines and 
limes, alligator pears from Jamaica, and Mexican 
pina. 

At the fish stalls we behold great tubs of moving 
crabs and huge piles of shrimps in agony. Here 
are jack fish, red fish, reel trout, blue fish, red 
snapper, flounders, croakers and mullets. 

At the flower stalls we encounter huge boquets 
that would fill a peck measure, but no very great 
assortment. 

In other quarters of the market, dry goods and 
various wares are kept in queer cramped places 
with narrow passages, and here and there are de- 
partments devoted to small lunch tables which are 
well patronized. At these tables the famous 
black coffee of the French Market is dispensed, 
and may or may not deserve the credit which has 
been given it. A seat at a table may assist in 
determining the question. As in all other places 
in the city, no coin less than a nickel is current. 

RESTAURANTS. 

The restaurants are so numerous, one can hardly 
go amiss of them, and several may be tried before 
an equilibrium is found where all is satisfactory. 
Men with low incomes, live by thousands at the 
cheaper restaurants; they will breakfast upon a 
cup of coffee, with bread and butter, and pay ten 



56 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

cents for it. Twelve o'clock will find them in a 
saloon before the lunch tables, being helped to a 
dish of clam chowder, a slice of roast rump beef, 
lettuce, radishes, bread and butter, cheese and 
crackers washed down with a glass of claret, and 
only ten or fifteen cents to pay. At six o'clock 
they may perhaps afford a dinner with a glass of 
wine, which may be had at the cheaper restaurants, 
for fifty cents. And so they live, deprived of all 
knowledge of the constituents of a home. 

In addition to familiar soups you may have 
offered you: shrimp gumbo, chicken gumbo, 
crab gumbo or oyster gumbo. Among your en- 
trees may be stewed veal a la Creole. In the 
fish line : tenderloin trout, tarter ; sheeps 
head, green trout, flounders or Spanish mack- 
erel. For game, you may have mallards and 
teal, snipe, grassit, quail, robins, wild turkey 
or squirrel. The restaurants of Canal Street are 
noted by northerners for their '' biscuit glace ^'' a 
sort of frozen cream which is delicious. Occa- 
sionally a restaurant keeper is noted also for exor- 
bitant charges, and a daily paper has recently been 
sued by one of them for publishing a statement 
of such charges. 

OYSTERS. 

The oysters are mostly from the Gulf, and are 
sold very reasonably. One may observe a sign 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 57 

reading as follows : * ' Oysters from Bayou Cook, 
both fresh and salt." A paradox meaning the 
oysters are freshly taken from the water, and that 
on account of no recent overflow or presence of 
river water in the oyster beds, they possess the 
desired flavor. During the fall months they are 
not salt enough, but as cold weather appears, and 
the rivers are lessened in volume, the beds be- 
come more salt, and the oysters better. Via the 
North Rampart Street cars to Old Basin, the ter- 
minus of Carondelet's Canal, which leads to Bayou 
St. John, through which vessels reach Lake 
Ponchartrain, one may find a fleet of oyster 
smacks, manned by as utterly an un-American 
class of skippers as one would find in Sicily. No 
English is spoken. Spaniards, Italians and a few 
Creoles are here grouped upon the wharves, wait- 
ing to dispose of their cargoes of oysters from Cat 
Island, where Bienville first landed ; from Ship 
Island, where General Butler first landed and sub- 
sequently sent his Confederate prisoners ; from 
Bayou St. Peter and neighboring bayous, at prices 
fluctuating from seventy-five cents a bushel to 
seventy-five cents a barrel, depending upon the 
weather for fishing, and the demand. 

SALOONS. 

New Orleans is not behind its sister cities in its 



58 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

drinking saloons. The business men who do not 
frequent them are in the minority. Their 7nenu of 
drinks are composed of all the well known solids 
together with the ornamental, in the shape of 
spoon cocktails, nectarine, claret punches, seltzer 
from-the-syphon, apolinaris water (with the priv- 
ilege), and Santa Cruz rum. 

A custom obtains here of advertising real estate 
sales, instead of theatres, in the saloons. In the 
more promment places, like that of the St. Charles 
or the Produce Exchange, large colored plats of 
properties for sale are suspended upon racks and 
regularly renewed. 



SUBURBAN PLACES. 

CARROLLTON 

is five miles from Canal Street and one mile 
beyond the Exposition grounds. Take the horse- 
cars, corner Canal and Baronne. The last two 
miles of the distance is accomplished by the 
queerest looking dummy engines in America. 
They appear like cigar stubs on wheels. On 
visiting Carrollton one has an opportunity of see- 
ing with the eye what is so often discussed, the 
relative position of the Mississippi to New^ Or- 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 59 

leans. Standing upon the levee here and looking 
down upon the spot where you stepped from the 
horse-car, and then cast your eye upon the river, 
at an ordinary stage of water, the river seems the 
highest. One can readily see that with high 
water at CarroUton, in the neighborhood of the 
newly made levee, it would not require much 
pressure to burst through, and, with rapidly in- 
creasing volume, flood the city. 

From the spot where you are now standing it is 
four and a half miles in a direct line to the levee 
at the head of Canal Street, while to follow the 
bank around the crescent it is ten miles,, so that 
including the distance to the United States Bar- 
racks, three miles below Canal, the city has a fair- 
ly active river frontage of thirteen miles. 

A daily paper recently contained the following 
editorial : 

THE CARROLLTON LEVEE. 

The work on the new levee in CarroUton is, with the number of 
laborers now employed, rapidly progressing, and should the weather 
continue favorable the contractor will complete the entire line in a 
much shorter time than was anticipated. 

When it is considered that last year during the high water season the 
city was constantly threatened with overflow from that direction, and 
that it was only by constant work send increasing watchfulness that the 
old levee was held, the caves repaired and a catastrophe averted, that 
the importance of the new embankment in the course of construction 
can be understood. For many years past, the CarroUton Levee, where 
in high water the current impinges against the banks with all its terri- 
ble force, has been in a dangerous condition, and the entire attention 



6(5 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

of the authories constantly directed on that point. Its condition was 
such that the engineers have expressed it as their opinion that it could 
not stand another pressue such as the one that by constant labor and 
at great cost it stood last year. The safety of the city depended upon 
a perfect protection from that point, and immediate steps for future 
protection were imperative. In consequence the Coimcil, feeling that 
further delay might be the cause of a disastrous overflow next season, 
decided upon the present location for the new levee which is being 
constructed, and expropriated the property on the line, paying the 
owners the assessment value on their houses, which offer met with no 
opposition. With this levee of the dimensions fixed by the city sur 
veyor. which is being rapidly pushed forward, the river will find at this 
dangerous point a strong barrier against its waters, and the citizens of 
New Orleans be relieved of all further apprehension of danger from 
that section. 

New Orleans guide books have given extrava- 
gant mention to 

CARROLLTON GARDENS 

to the disappointment of many strangers. It is 
simply a square of four acres of land, with shrub- 
bery, flowers, dancing pavilion and restaurant, 
close to the railroad terminus. There are other 
private residences in the same locality with 
grounds quite as extensive and better kept. 

The route there gives one a knowledge of a 
typical choice resident street of the city — St. 
Charles Avenue, which is being paved, and at the 
upper end has a shell road to Carrollton. North- 
erners will observe with curiosity that the door 
bells to residences are at the outer iron gates 
which are kept locked. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6l 

JOCKEY CLUB HOUSE 

and grounds, Esplanade Street, near Bayou St. John 
bridge. Take the Bayou Bridge and Esplanade 
cars at the car starter's station on Canal Street, 
near the custom-house. Thence down Peters and 
Decatur streets, near the extensive sugar sheds 
and rice houses, on past the French Market, with 
its odors of fruit, flowers, crabs and garlic. We 
are now on the edge of the old French quarter, 
and in passing the quaint, narrow streets of Conti, 
St. Louis, Toulouse, St. Peter, St. Ann, Chartres 
and many others, to Northern eyes interest and 
curiosity is awakened. We here pass Jackson 
Square, with its fine view of St. Louis Cathedral and 
its venerable companions, the old Spanish cabildo 
buildings. The route s'oon turns upon Esplanade 
Street at the corner, where stands the United 
States mint. Outwardly, in appearance, it looks 
as if an appropriation would not be amiss. 

Esplanade is a superior type of the city's resid- 
ence streets. For nearly two miles shade trees 
border closely the horse-car lines on the elevated 
street centres, where there is no driving, while 
either side of the tracks is paved for that purpose. 
A good class of residences of the usual two bal- 
cony fronts, or a veranda with each story, bor- 
der the street, while here and there are residences 



62 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

with more extensive grounds, with orange trees, 
large oleanders and native shrubs. Along this 
thoroughfare, an opportunity here and there is 
had of observing a wide ditch or canal at angles 
with it. We soon reach Bayou Bridge, with the 
black waters of Bayou St. John slightly moving 
with the tide. Moored to the shores are numer- 
ous yachts and row boats. It is three miles to 
Lake Ponchartrain and Spanish Fort. Green 
trout, perch and mullet are caught in its waters, 
and the mullet keep the surface lively with 
their frollickings Near at hand is St. Louis 
Cemetery, No. 3, and adjoining it the Jockey 
Club grounds. The house is elegantly fitted 
up in all its appointments. The grounds are 
filled with luxuriant foliage nearly hiding the 
building from view. It has, as a club house and 
grounds, a national reputation. Permission to 
enter must be obtained from Mr. G. W. Nott, 
secretary, 104 Canal Street. 

THE NATIONAL CEMETERY 

at Chalmette is so unlike the other cemeteries 
of the city, which are described elsewhere, it is 
deemed best to class it separately. It is situated 
at Jackson's battle ground, and can be reached by 
horse-cars as far as the United States Barracks, 
from whence it is necessary to walk a mile. Take 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 63 

the Barracks cars from Canal to Magazine and out 
along the levee with various turns past the Ursu- 
Hnes Convent and United States Barracks, where 
are stationed a detachment of infantry and artillery. 
The cemetery contains about fourteen acres, in 
which are buried twelve thousand five hundred 
Federal soldiers, its centre adorned by a handsome 
monument. Nearly every State in the Union is 
represented here by its dead. The extraordinary 
care with which the grounds, flowers and shrub- 
bery are kept reflect great credit upon the labors 
of the three men there employed. There is a 
good landing here, it being immediately upon the 
river bank, to which boats may be run during the 
Exposition. The Shell Beach railroad from Elys- 
ian Fields and St. Claude Street also carry pas- 
sengers to the rear of the cemetery, with far less 
walking than by the horse cars. See time table 
in this book. 

WEST END. 

For this point steam cars leave the corner of 
Canal and Carondelet streets every half hour. It 
is situated upon Lake Ponchartrain, six miles dis- 
tant. A shell road also leads to it. Across the 
placid sheet of water no land is in sight. A casino, 
music stand, bathing houses and the usual appurt- 
enances to a summer resort, together with yachts, 
row-boats and boat club-houses, are at hand. A 



64 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

fine shell road tempts horseback and carriage 
riding. Along the beach the walks are bordered 
with fragrant violets, and roses bloom all the year. 
During the summer open air concerts and theatri- 
cal performances are given. 



SPANISH FORT 

situated on Lake Ponchartrain, seven miles dis- 
tant. Steam cars start from Canal, corner of 
Basin, fare fifteen cents for the round trip. The 
old fort proper, is a raised earth work about eight 
feet high, and faced with a brick wall. It is nearly 
square. The remains of its armament consist of 
two ancient cannon half buried in the earth. 
Upon the earthwork is a large building in use as 
a restaurant. Along the lake front piles are 
driven, upon which the Casino, a large building 
used for purposes of amusement, is built. Restau- 
rants abound, together with flowers and shrubs. 
A small enclosure contains a few large alligators. 

MILNEBURG, 

on Lake Ponchartrain, east of Spanish Fort. It 
is the terminus of the Ponchartrain railroad and 
is a resort similar to West End, but has not such 
extensive improvements. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 65 

PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 
Of these, the 

GRAND OPERA HOUSE 

on Canal, near corner Dauphine, is the most 
prominent. In this building the most noted en- 
gagements are made. It has a seating capacity 
of eighteen hundred. 

ST. CHARLES THEATRE, 

No. 102 St. Charles Street, is also a leading 
theatre, and has a seating capacity of three 
thousand. 

The Academy of Music 90 and 92 St. Charles 
Street, is another under the same management as 
the St. Charles. It seats twenty-two hundred. 

THE FRENCH OPERA HOUSE, 

an immense pile at the corner of Bourbon and 
Toulouse streets. It was built in 1849. ^^ ^^s 
architecture, it is entirely void of curves, and 
composed of squares and angles piled up against 
each other like a huge cathedral that required 
centuries to build. It is quite in keeping with the 
quaint Franco-Spanish edifices around it, but a 
giant among them. It is the home of French 
opera in New Orleans, and which, to inaugurate 
each season, a large subscription list is necessary. 
The following is a list for the season of 1884-85 : 



66 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Exposition Season commencing February 2, and ending May 31, 
1885. 

SCALE OF PRICES. 

Subscription. — 120 performances in the season. 

PARQUET AND PREMIERES SEATS. 

For all nights (120) in the season $120 00 

For any four days in every week 68 00 

For any three days in every week 51 00 

For any two days in every week 34 00 

For every Sunday (18) in the season 18 00 

BOXES PREMIERES AND GRILLEES. 

For any four days in every week $272 00 

For any three days in every week 204 00 

*For any two days in every week 136 00 

For every Sunday (18) in the season 72 00 

PARQUET BOXES — SIDE. 

For any four days in every week $340 00 

For any three days in every week 255 00 

For any two days in every week 170 00 

For every Sunday in the season 90 00 

PROSCENIUM BOXES. 

For any four days in every week . $408 00 

For any three days in every week 306 00 

For any two day in every week 204 00 

For every Sunday in the season 108 00 

FARANTl'S THEATRE. 

Corner Bourbon and Orleans. A large corru- 
gated iron structure amidst types of architecture of 
the old Spanish days. It is a novelty which draws 
largely from the dime museums, ten cents being 
the price of admission. It will hold nearly four 
thousand people. It has a parquet seating a 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6/ 

thousand, which can be turned into a ring for 
circus performances. The parquet has tiers of 
seats encircling it, and to occupy one and listen 
to the conversation going on is to bring at once 
Cable's 'Old Creole Days* dialect before you in 
all its native purity. You are in the midst of 
CvqoIq patois, neither French nor Spanish accent 
but unlike, purely individual and distinct. The 
theatre has a good stage, where fair performances 
are given. Mazeppa is often placed here, and to 
witness it is to remind one of the famous Adah 
Isaacs Menken, a New Orleans beauty who 
achieved prominence in eastern cities and in Paris, 
in this play. 

Robinson's dime museum. 

Canal Street, below St. Charles, what you will 
find in every city of a hundred thousand inhab- 
itants, the usual dwarf, giant, skeleton, long- 
haired lady, long haired-man, bearded lady, glass- 
blower, extraordinary cow and Punch and Judy, 
supplemented by a stage performance every hour. 
"Please pass on gentlemen to the theatre below; 
reserved opera chairs only one dime extra.*' 

GRUNNEWALD HALL, 

Baronne Street, seats one thousand, but has no 
regular engagements. 



68 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

ROYAL MEXICAN AUTOMATON SHOW, 

199 Canal Street. Pictures of Life in Mexico. 
Admission ten cents. 

BATTLE OF SEDAN, 

opposite Magazine Street, entrance to Exposition. 
Admission fifty cents. 

BUFFALO bill's WILD WEST EXHIBITION, 

at Oakland Park, afternoons only. Admission 
fifty cents. Horse-cars from Canal and Carondelet. 



LIBRARIES. 

New Orleans has three public libraries. The 
largest, that of the University of Louisiana, on 
Common Street, near the corner of Dryades, con- 
tains just one-tenth as many books as the Boston 
Public Library, namely : forty thousand, that of 
Boston having four hundred thousand. This li- 
brary is open only from nine a. m. to three p. m. 

FISK FREE LIBRARY. 

This is just around the corner on Dryades 
Street, from the entrance to the University library. 
It contains five thousand seven hundred volumes. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 6g 

and is open from nine a. m. to five p. m. The 
other is 

THE CITY LIBRARY, 

located in the city hall, on Lafayette Square. It 
contains sixteen thousand volumes, and is open 
from nine a. m. to three p. m. This, as well as 
both the others, are free to the public. In this 
respect New Orleans is much better off than Rich- 
mond, Virginia, which has no public libraries. 

The Young Men's Christian Association also 
have their library at their rooms, Nos. 13 and 
15 Camp Street. 



PROMINENT BUILDINGS. 

THE UNITED STATES CUSTOM-HOUSE 

stands first and last of the large structures of the 
city. It fills the square bounded by Canal, Cus- 
tom House, Decatur and Peters streets. It is 
built of Maine granite, and is a monument of the 
old style of architecture in government buildings 
of the past. On the ground floor is situated the 
post-office ; on the first floor above is the large 
hail around which are arranged the desks of the 
government clerks In this room, over the door 
of the east entrance, is a bas relief of Bienville, 



70 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

the founder of New Orleans, his Spanish costume 
in great contrast to that of Andrew Jackson along 
side, in his high collared coat of 1815. The offices 
of the United States government officials are 
on the same floor. From the roof an excellent 
view is obtained of the city and river. 

UNITED STATES MINT. 

Corner of Esplanade and Peters Street. It is 
apparently much larger than the mint at Philadel- 
phia. In front of this building, Wm. B. Mum- 
ford was hung, June 7, 1862, for taking down from 
the flag staff on the mint the United States flag 
which Farragut had caused to be placed there. 

ST. CHARLES HOTEL. 

This was built in 1838 at a cost of $600,000, 
It was burned in 1850 and restored in '52 and '53. 
From the time of its erection to the present, it 
has been the rendezvous for all important dis- 
cussions, and the abode of all of our noted men 
when visiting here. When Benjamin F. Butler 
arrived in New Orleans it was closed, but he 
ordered it to be opened for the accommodation of 
himself and staff. In it were brought before him 
the mayor and Common Council in arrest, and be- 
fore him Senator Pierre Soule defended them. 
Its massive granite columns — as large or larger 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7 1 

than those of the sub-treasury in Wall Street — sup- 
porting its substantial cornice, make a facade 
which modern architecture does not improve 
upon. 

Wm, Howard Russell, better known during 
war times as *' Bull Run Russell," thus wrote of 
the St. Charles, in his letter to the London Tmies, 
May 24, 1861 : 

In the course of the day, I went to the St. Charles Hotel, which is 
an enormous establishment, of the American type, with a southern 
character about it. A number of gentlemen were seated in the hall, 
and in front of the office, with their legs up against the wall, and on 
the backs of chairs, smoking, spitting, and reading the papers. Of- 
ficers crowded the bar. The bustle and noise of the place would make 
it anything but an agreeable residence for one fond of quiet ; but this 
hotel is famous for its difficulties. Not the least disgraceful among 
them, was the assault committed by somd of Walker's, filibusters upon 
Captain Aldham of the Royal Navy, 

HOTEL ROYAL 

until recently known as the Hotel St. Louis. The 
following is a recent description of it by the 
Times Democrat: 

The period from 1833 to 1837 marked one of the most important 
building eras in the history of New Orleans. Banks, threatres, 
hotels, markets, cotton presses and commercial edifices were rapidly 
erected, costing four million five hundred thousand dollars, at which 
time the population did not exceed one hundred thousand, mainly in 
developing the portions lying between Poydras, Canal, St. Charles 
Street and the river. But the more thickly-settled portion lying below 
Canal Street, likewise, was being beautified by the erection of magni- 
ficent civil and pubhc edifices, the most conspicuous of which was 



72 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

that which is now called Hotel Royal, then known as the City Ex- 
change. This imposing structure was planned and erected by the 
architect, M. J. N. DePouiliy. The money was suppHed by the 
Improvement Bank, which was organized for the purpose of erecting 
handsome buildings Its president was the Hon. Pierre Soule, and 
its domicile is yet to be seen in that relic of ancient glory now stand- 
ing on Toulouse Street, between Royal and Chartres. It was the 
original intention of this company'to cover this square with elegant 
buildings 

The St. Louis Hotel extended three hundred feet, the entire length 
of the block on St. Louis Street, and one hundred and twenty feet 
each on Royal and Chartres streets. Its architecture is a composite 
of Tuscan ana Done. Its principal entrance, opposite Exchange alley, 
is ornamented with six marble columns. Originally, there was a vesti- 
bule of one hundred and twenty-seven by forty feet, which was the 
rendezvous for the public at large, and from this entrance was gained 
to the magnificent rotunda, whose lofty dome admitted the hght 
through rich stained glass. Beneath the glass on the side of the dome 
were, and are still, paneled with frescoe paintings penciled with marvels 
of skill by the celebrated Italian painters, Canova and Pinoli. These 
paintings have been the admiration of thousands of visitors, and to- 
day are as beautiful as when first executed. This rotunda was the 
business centre of this city for many years. 

Here merchants assembled on High Change from one to three p. M. 
daily (Sundays excepted). And on Saturdays seven or eight French, 
Spanish, Italian and English auctioneers were to be heard offering real 
estate, stocks and bonds, and gang after gang of negroes. Here also 
assembled the seconds in the affairs de honore, prior to accompanying 
their principals to the ducHng grounds, which events were then of fre- 
quent occurrence. 

The Royal Street entrance is provided with one of the grandest 
stairways of any southern edifice, and affords an easy ascent from the 
marble pavement to the last upper floor. 

This building was badly damaged by fire in 1840, but with commend- 
able energy its originators reconstructed it, increasing its magnifi- 
cence. Its upper floors were divided into large ball-rooms, parlors 
and dining rooms, besides commodious apartments for guests. These 
witnessed some of the most eventful scenes in the ante bellum days of 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 73 

this city. On January 8, 1840, General Jackson was received in the 
banquet hall by the committee of the Democratic party, who had 
provided here elegant suites of rooms for his accommodation. Thither, 
hour after hour, thousands of citizens came to pay their greetings to 
their esteemed General. 

In the winter of 1842 the Hon. Henry Clay was also handsomely 
entertained here, in whose honor was given a ball, which was attended 
by the elite of the city, and it is said the costumes of the ladies on 
that occasion were the most magnificent that had ever appeared in this 
city. A subscription banquet, costing twenty thousand dollars, was 
also arranged in the grand dining hall in honor of Mr. Clay. 

In 1844 the Hon. Martin Van Buren held a grand reception in the 
dining hall of this noted building. There being no gas in these early 
days, the various apartments were lighted with wax candles placed in 
large crystal chandeliers and candelabras. This building continued 
to be used by various persons as a hotel, until it was forced to close for 
want of patronage during the war. 

After the surrender it was re-opened for a sho?t time and again closed, 
and finally the ownership was vested in the State and used for a State 
House. Its grand rotunda, which had previously been floored over, 
was now used as a Senate Chamber, and the former dining hall as the 
House of Representatives. 

On removal of the capital to Baton Rouge it was deserted and 
rapidly deteriorated for want of care. During the last Legislature, 
Messrs. Rivers & Bartell, the enterprising proprietors of the St. Charles 
Hotel, obtained a fifteen years' lease of the property. 

These gentlemen thoroughly refitted, furnished and opened it with a 
grand ball in November, 1884. This and the St. Charles are the lead- 
ing hotels in the city. Their terms are from four dollars a day up- 
wards. 

THE CITY HALL, 

corner St. Charles and Lafayette, and fronting 
Lafayette Square, also supports some handsome 
Grecian-Doric columns. In it are the offices of 
the mayor and other municipal officers. 



74 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

NEW MASONIC HALL, 

on St. Charles, above Lee Place. It has a front- 
age of one hundred and forty-seven feet by ninety- 
two deep, with two wings eighty-four feet deep. 
The Old Masonic Hall is on St. Charles, opposite 
Commercial Place. 

TULANE HALL 

is located on the east side of Dryades Street, be- 
tween Canal and Common. It is now occupied 
by the academical department of the University 
of Louisiana and the Fisk Library. 

WASHINGTON ARTILLERY ARMORY, 

on St Charles, between Julia and Girod. It be- 
longs to the Washington Artillery, and in it, dur- 
ing the carnival season, the receptions are given. 

ODD fellows' HALL, 

Lafayette Park. The lower floor is occupied by 
that ancient military company, the Continental 
Guards. Near it are 

COURT BUILDINGS, 

in which are located the Parish Criminal Court 
and various parish offices. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 75 

PICKWICK CLUB-HOUSE, 

corner Canal and Carondelet streets. This is the 
most imposing of modern structures in the city. 
Its beautiful turretted corner and richly stained 
oriel windows are in great contrast to its surround- 
ings. Its large and elegant entrance is on Car- 
ondelet Street, which Cable has introduced to so 
many readers as containing Dr. Sevier's office. No. 
3J^. An humble insurance company now occu- 
pies it, at whose desks none know of the doctor. 
The Illinois Central R. R. offices occupy the 
Canal Street front, and are handsomly fitted up. 

Just above the Pickwick, on Canal, is the 
Louisiana Club-House, and near it, and above, is 
the Boston Club-House, a fine old-style structure, 
No. 148. 

THE COTTON EXCHANGE, 

corner of Carondelet and Gravier, a building hav- 
ing a larger front than that of the New York 
Stock Exchange, but not as large an interior. It 
has a beautifully decorated exchange room, and a 
life which the Produce and other exchanges have 
not, from the larger attendance and volume of 
bnsiness done. It has a membership of about six 
hundred, but seldom has an excited market, the 
fluctuations in cotton being so slight, therefore 
the crowd doing business there seems small com- 



76 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. • 

pared with the grain, oil and stock exchanges of 
New York and Chicago. The brokers' cry of 
"I'll give four for one June," means for futures, 
that he will give — say cotton is between ten and 
eleven cents — ten and four one hundredths of a 
cent for one hundred bales, the smallest amount 
dealt in. If spot cotton, the fractions are one 
sixteenth of a cent a pound. Thousand bale lots 
are the usual quantities recorded. With the ele- 
vator one may go to the roof, from which a good 
view of the city may be had. There are numer- 
ous other exchanges detailed in this book, the 
next most prominent being the 

PRODUCE EXCHANGE, 

which occupies new ^quarters on Banks' Arcade^ 
It can also be entered at 44 Magazine Street. It 
is very quiet here. There are samples of grain 
and grocers' goods upon the tables, but the busi- 
ness is done in a very leisurely manner. 

THE MEXICAN EXCHANGE 

occupies the quarters 124 Common Street, and is 
organized for the purpose of fostering trade with 
Mexican, Central and South American ports. A 
great amount of the business which might pro- 
perly be done at the exchanges, is transacted at 
the clubs, of which there are a dozen in good 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 7/ 

standing, of which the Commercial, Pickwick, 
Boston, Louisiana and Jockey Clubs are the most 
prominent. 



NEWSPAPERS. 



The Times- Democrat, No 58 Camp Street, owned 
principally by Director-General E. A. Burke, and 
The Picayioie, No. 66 Camp Street, owned by 
Mrs. Nicholson, take the lead as English morning 
papers, both having the press dispatches. 

The Daily States, 90 Camp Street ; The Daily 
City Item, 39 Natchez Street; Th.Q Eve?iing Chron- 
icle, 23 Bank Place, and The Commercial Bulletin, 
54 Magazine Street, occupy the field fully as to 
numbers. Of these The States is the only one 
having the press dispatches. The Bulletin is par- 
tially owned by W. B. Merchant, the postmaster. 

The L Abeille, 73 Chartres Street, is the French 
daily, and has a large circulation, as well as the 
Deutsche- Zeitimg, 108 Camp Street. 

There are also the following weeklies : 

The Mascot (illustrated), 6^ Camp Street; 
Louisiana Sugar Bowl, no. 6 Camp Street. This 
is devoted to the interest of planters. 

Le Propagateur Catholique, corner Orleans and 
Royal streets. 

Morning Star (Catholic), 1 16 Poydras street. 



78 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Algiers Advertiser, Villere, between Lavigne and 
Bartholcmew streets. 

The Christian Advocate, ii2 Camp Street. 

Southwestern Christian Advocate, 32 Natchez 
Street. 

Southwestern Presbyterian, 94 Camp Street. 

American Lumberman, 188 Gravier Street. 

Also the following publications: 

Der Kinder Freund (bi-weekly), 112 Camp 
Street. 

Medical and Surgical Journal (monthly), 19 
Baronne Street. 

Workman, 34 Magazine Street. 

Evangelisch Lutherische Blatter, 5 Old Magazine 
Street. 

Gretna Courer, Gretna. 

THE CEMETERIES. 

It will not do to omit the cemeteries, they are 
so unlike all other cemeteries of the country. 
They are simply streets of tombs from ten to fif- 
teen feet high and five to. ten feet in width. All 
are scrupulously white, whether made of brick 
and covered with cement and whitewashed, or of 
marble. Water being so near the surface, no 
bodies are placed beneath it, but all above. 

In addition to family tombs there are tenament 
blocks of tombs, four tiers or stories high, each 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. ^g 

space receiving one casket, each block containing 
fifty or more caskets, and numbered as houses are 
numbered. 

In many of the cemeteries the inscriptions upon 
tombs are almost exclusively in French, and sen- 
tences similar to the following meet the eye at 
every turn: ''A mon cher epoux,'' ''Dieu seul 
connait mes regrets," ''A iiotre pere.'' Here and 
there may be seen the names of loved children in 
groups belonging to one family, as : 

LOUIS, 

PHILIP, 

EDOUARD, 

ALPHONSE, 

VIRGINIA. 

About these names and inscriptions are sus- 
pended all manner of designs of flower pieces 
made of beads, like hair-work, in purple, black or 
white, together with metalic wreaths of flowers, 
which to touch may alarm a small bright green or 
brown lizard, and cause it to start from its hiding 
place beneath, and display its proportions upon 
the white marble. Newly made tombs are for 
sale, as a card announces: *' Tombe a vendre s' 
adrgsser au gardien dti Cimetiere St. Louis.'' 

In October last, a card at one of the entrances 
contained the following translation of the original 
in French above it : 

"Any persons that Wish to have there tooms 



So NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Repare Fore Saint Day, Will please address to the 
Sexton." 

A wag has said that the song: "See that my 
grave is kept green," does not apply to New Or- 
leans ; but rather : see that my grave is kept white- 
washed. When an interment takes place in a 
tenement tomb, the mourners in carnages linger 
while the casket is placed in the tomb, and 
until the mason with trowel, mortar and brick, 
quickly places a wall between it and the outer 
world, and fastens with cement and screws the 
marble slab that covers it. 

ALL saints' day. 

To see the cemeteries of New Orleans at their 
best, is to visit them on All Saints' Day, Novem- 
ber first. Early in the morning of that day the 
flower stalls of the various markets are laden with 
all sorts of made up flower-pieces and bouquets. 
Ladies, children and servants are hurrying 
through the streets, laden with huge bouquets 
of dahlies, chrysanthemums, white daisies and 
immortelles, full blush and crimson roses, 
wreaths of green and purple artificial flowers, so 
real as to deceive the ordinary observer ; wreaths 
of mourning, and bead work of every conceivable 
design. Laden with these, the crowds wend their 
way to the cemeteries. It is a legal holiday At 



NEW ORLEANS AS fT IS. 8 1 

noon the post office and custom-house close 
their offices. The wholesale houses and general 
merchants close their doors. The drayman turns 
the ears of*his mules homeward with his right 
hand, while his left carefully holds a huge bou- 
quet for the adornment of the graves of his dear 
departed. 

In the morning of that day, after high mass at 
the cathedral, the clergy march in procession to 
the cemeteries belonging to it and sing the 
Libera. Long before that hour the grounds are 
thronged with ladies, children and servants, all 
busy workers in adorning the houses of the dead. 
Servants are scouring and polishing the marble ; 
ladies are directing and arranging the disposition of 
the flowers, richly dressed children are darting here 
and there with merry voices. The long rows of 
straight whitewashed trunks of magnolia trees, 
stand like so many Corinthian pillars, supporting 
the canopy of green waxy foliage, and roofing 
completely the white shelled roads beneath, 
where, moving in dignified procession, are beauti- 
ful and stately mothers, followed by their children, 
and these by neatly dressed servants, holding aloft 
exquisite floral offerings for the sacred shrines. 

Fresh white sand is sprinkled over earth where 
the grass has not arisen, and from it protrudes 
fresh pots of flowers. In the streets of tenement 



82 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

tombs, groups of people are industriously work- 
ing, cleaning, polishing and adorning the limited 
spot of marble each possesses. Against tomb 
fronts, huge masses of dahlias and inamortelles are 
tastefully piled. Banks of bright green glossy 
palms are handsomely grouped against the 
white marble, relieved here and there by baskets 
of full fragrant roses at the doors of tombs. 

On this November day, when throughout the 
North the leaves of the chestnut, maple, and elm 
have fallen, and those of the oak are dried and 
brown ; in New England, when the withered grass 
and leaves are coated with a white frost, and the 
sharp ice crystals are fringing the edges of the 
ponds, full blush and crimson roses are here dif- 
fusing their fragrance and showering their petals 
over the borders of the walks. 

It is All Saints' Day; a day of days at Pry- 
tania Cemetery ; a bright holy day and holiday, 
when children, birds, foliage, and flowers combine 
to link all that is beautiful on earth with the mem- 
ory of those we love in heaven. 

At noon this labor of love ceases, ^and during 
the afternoon the throngs come and go until dark. 

Of the small cemeteries, the Prytania or Wash- 
ington Street Cemetery is one of the best kept. 
It is not exclusive in its denomination, and con- 
tains many aristocratic tombs. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 83 

The approaches to the cemeteries are lined with 
flower, fruit and refreshment stands, and near the 
gates inside, here and there, seated -before a small 
white table, one will see a pleasant-faced nun re- 
ceiving in a silver plate, money gifts for some 
named asylum, as Mt. Carmel Female Orphan 
Asylum, St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum, etc. 

St. Louis Cemetery, No. I, corner St. Louis 
and Conti streets, is the oldest in the city, and 
contains the names of many of the early promi*- 
nent families, such as Claiborne, Mandcville, Marig- 
ney, Tanneret, Rosseau, Rocquet, Denis, Garcia. 
Here are tombs of Spanish, Portuguese, Italian 
and French societies. It is noticeable as being the 
oldest, but it is very much crowded and not as 
well kept as many other cemeteries. On All 
Saints' days artificial muslin and paper flowers 
prevail here, together with decorations of beads. 
The air on that day resounds with the rapping of 
sticks upon the silver plates on the tables to call 
the visitor's attention to the charity it represents, 
and is filled with the medley of French, Spanish 
and Italian voices. Before some tombs candles 
are burning and postulants kneeling. A few aged 
negro women, with rosaries in hand, may be 
heard ejaculating their prayers in French. 

The larger portion of the population on All 
Saints' Day make Greenwood, Metarie Road and 



84 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

St, Patrick cemeteries — which are all grouped 
together at Canal and Metarie Road — the objective 
point. At the canal bridge, near the entrance to 
Metarie Road Cemetery, the crowd becomes a 
jam. The Ponchartrain railway carries the people 
by thousands. The streets approaching the gates 
are like a Parisian fete day, lined as they are with 
fruit, flower and refreshment stands, whose ven- 
ders are exceedingly demonstrative. A constant 
line of carriages are crossing and recrossing the 
bridge over the canal, which leads to Lake Pon- 
chartrain. Two large refreshment houses are near 
by, and they are thronged with people. Across 
the road is Greenwood Cemetery, its most notice- 
able features being its shade and the Confederate 
monument which is near the entrance. Its streets 
of tombs are named after the flowers, such as 
Myrtle Avenue, Violet Avenue, Acacia Avenue, 
etc., etc. It is well kept. The Metarie is the 
largest and most modern in the city. Its entrance 
is but a few rods from that of Greenwood, just 
across the canal bridge. As you enter, orange- 
laden trees, bordering its shell-paved entrance- 
driveway, gr^et you ; to the right is the tomb of 
the Louisiana Division of the Confederate Army 
of Tennessee, in which is a tablet to the memory 
of General Albert Sydney Johnson. His statue 
is to surmount it, and the statue of a Confederate 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 85 

soldier is to guard the entrance. To the left is a 
large public receiving vault. Then follows an 
avenue of beautiful tombs, from which other ave- 
nues diverge over a large space. The tombs are 
more modern in their construction; the walks 
and drives of shell pavement are laid in curves, 
while the others are in angles ; it is more spacious, 
more American. It contains some beautiful works 
of cemetery architecture and sculpture. 

The Washington Artillery have a fine monu- 
ment, commemorating its battles and names of its 
dead, with a statue of a Confederate soldier sur- 
mounting it. The Louisiana division of the Army 
of Northern Virginia also have a tomb and shaft, 
surmounted by a statue of Stonewall Jackson. 
The head of the statue is covered with a soldier's 
cap, which does not seem quite appropriate, and 
it suffers somewhat in comparison with the statue 
of Jackson in the State House Park in Richmond. 

The Knights of Pythias have a handsome en- 
closure for their dead. The Morris tomb is a 
granite structure standing in the interior of a church 
of Ivy, with circular front windows, side windows 
and transept. This is very pretty. The frame is 
of light iron work, but so covered inside and out 
with ivy as to be hidden from view. Adjoining it 
stands a beautiful and venerable live oak, whose 



86 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

immense trunk and moss-laden branches are 
worthy of observation. 

''Remember St. Mary's Orphan Asylum'' said 
a small placard, last All Saints' Day, before a 
white table in front of the large tomb of the 
Pelican Benevolent Society. Beside the table sat 
two kind hearted Sisters, flanked by eight little 
orphan boys, about six years of age. Along^ 
came a gentleman with servant carrying baskets. 

"Good evening, good Sisters," said the gentle- 
man, in French, "How are my Httle boys to- 
day?" as he droped some silver coin into the 
plate — sterling silver rem.embrance of the Orphans 
of St. Mary's — and now the Sisters must be 
hungry, and little Leon, Francois and Philip must 
be hungry too, and so napkins are spread, and 
there upon the green grass, the gentleman seated 
his little group and caused a delicious lunch to be 
spread, when he sat down and gaily chattered with 
the Sisters, and helped the little orphan boys to a 
good square meal and packages of bon-bons for 
themselves and their playmates at the asylum. 
There was happiness enough in that group to 
bring tears to at least one looker on, as it illus- 
trated what inspiration the Day of All Saints may 
give when rightly spent. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 8/ 

THE LEVEE. 

The levee at the head of Canal Street is always 
full of interest to the visitor. From the stone 
pavement at the head of the street, up to the 
plank docks, it is laid with shells. Here may 
be seen great blocks of cotton bales, each marked 
by the small various colored flags of the owners 
or factors ; and as the bales are received from 
the steamboat, are thus checked off by their marks 
and placed in their proper blocks. 

Visit this spot on the arrival of a two thousand 
ton steamboat like the Bayou Sara. See the 
crowds of black stevedores on shore, watching the 
gang-plank to get the eye of the mate for a job. 
Watch the queer sort of deck or steerage passen- 
gers which come ashore. See the stevedores 
scrutinize them. Here comes a verdant up-river 
darkey from the cane brake, with eyes bulging out 
at the scene before him. ** Hello dar," from a 
stevedore spokesman, *'whar yer cum frum? 
whar's you fodder? you'd better git back 'hind 
der biler, no work fur you here ! " 

Here comes a poor white nondescript, with 
dull, leaden countenance, eyes half closed, his 
rags are stiff with filth and the color of his skin. 
His baggage consists of an old box, with 
slats nailed across it, and contains a piece of filthy 



88 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

sacking. As he passes down the plank, a negro 
ejaculates : ' * Good lawd ! de snakes all dead war 
you cum frum ?" He takes him for a snake killer 
— by reason of his box — whose occupation is gone; 
and so this class of live freight, together with 
whole families of negroes and little pickaninnies, 
are discharged. 

The cabin passengers are taken away, and a 
long line of trucks are started to move six thou- 
sand or more bales of the great staple. The levee 
is strewn with fragments of cotton and cotton 
seed. The view from the deck of the steamboat 
gives one an idea of the Father of Waters a hun- 
dred miles from its mouth. It is, at this point, 
from a hundred to two hundred and eight feet 
deep. Across on the opposite shore is the town 
of Algiers, with a population of ten thousand, 
to which ferry boats are plying. Walk a short 
distance down this levee and see the acres of casks 
of sugar, molasses and rice, labelled with the 
names of the plantations from whence they came, 
and as you walk upon the plank pavement the 
grains of sugar, grate upon the ear like sand. See 
the huge piles of merchandise on the levee to be 
sent to the plantations in return payment. 

THE WHARVES. 

No stranger should visit New Orleans without 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 89 

acquainting himself partially with the extent of 
the direct traffic with foreign countries. 

Take a Tchoupitoulas horse-car as far as Sixth 
Street and walk down the river along the wharves, 
where may be encountered a greater variety of 
marine architecture than any city in our land — 
save New York. In addition to the Atlantic 
coast vessels, among which Boston and New 
York are largely represented, together with those 
of South American ports, may be seen black, 
rakish iron hulls, some of them drawing twenty- 
five feet of water, from Liverpool, Leith, Bath, 
Aberdeen, Glasgow, New Castle, London, Havre, 
Bremen, Hamburg, all busily loading with cotton, 
(during the autumn months when the cotton ship- 
ment is at its height) oil-meal, rice, sugar, 
molasses and staves. Here are vessels from Cen- 
tral and South America and the West Indies, with 
whole cargoes of fruit, and sometimes these car- 
goes are shipped entire to Chicago in the same 
cars of the Illinois Central Railroad which 
brought from that city grain, soap, starch and the 
yellow canvass hams of Mr. Armour, together 
with car loads of full, round, hard cabbages from 
the fields of lUinois. To walk the length of 
these wharves amidst acres and acres of com- 
pressed cotton bales on the one hand, and a river 
lined with masts upon the other, with flags of 



90 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

many nations floating among the rigging ; to lis- 
ten to the medley of Yorkshire and Gaelic, 
French, Italian, German and Spanish among the 
crews and the striking of the bells ; to see the 
clear cut stems and rounded iron sterns of the 
Clyde built steamers ; and the old fashioned 
square sterns and elaborate figure heads of some 
of the old New England or Boston luggers ; to 
snuff the air laden with odors of rosin, tarred 
rope and ship's smells; to be among all this is a 
novelty to a landsman from the interior, and full 
of interest. 

The time is approaching when instead of bal- 
last, these foreign vessels are coming better laden 
with imports to be distributed from New Orleans, 
more thoroughly over the New South. 

COTTON PRESSES. 

A large tract of territory reached oy the Tchou- 
pitoulas horse-cars and in the vicinity of the for- 
eign wharves, is devoted to immense brick store- 
houses, each with its huge press that receives a bale 
of cotton as it comes from the plantation and river 
steamboats, and with one breath of the powerful 
engines reduces its size to one-third its original 
bulk, when its ties are quickly re-adjusted and it 
goes to the iron hulks of Liverpool and elsewhere 
near at hand. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 9I 

THE ST. LOUIS CATHEDRAL 

fronts Jackson Square. Bienville located its site, 
also that of the presbytery. It was called the 
Church of St. Ignatius in 1720. A tornado swept 
the town subsequently and destroyed the building 
with many others. In 1725 a brick church was 
erected, which was destroyed by the great fire of 
1788. In 1794 Don Andres Almonaster-y-Roxas 
built the present cathedral, also the buildings now 
standing upon each side of it, the latter under a 
contract with the Spanish government. The one 
on the right was used for the sessions of the 
cabildo, and that on the left for a presbytery. In 
1850 the tower of the cathedral fell, injuring the 
walls, at which time it was altered and enlarged. 

Don Almonaster died in 1798. His tomb is in 
the cathedral, in front of the Altar of the Sacred 
Heart, where can be seen his coat of arms and the 
following inscription : 

A pesar de totos 
Vercetemos a los Godos. 
^*In spite of all 
We will conquer the Goths.** 

Beneath the marble in front of the Altar of 
Notre Dame de Lourdes, and opposite the spot 
where Hes the body of Almonaster, lie also the re- 



92 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

mains of three ancient cavaliers, one the founder 
of the old families of Marigney and Mandeville. 
The old buildings flanking the cathedral are very- 
interesting ; their arches, courts and old Moorish 
walls almost speak Spanish to the observer. The 
roofs are French additions, but the walls and in- 
teriors are as occupied by the Spaniards. They 
are now occupied, the one on the right, where the 
sessions of the cabildo were held, by the Supreme 
Court, and contains as before stated, the portrait 
of the late Judah P. Benjamin, General Grimes,' 
and busts of Senator Pierre Soule and Chief Jus- 
tice Marshall. The other building is occupied by* 
the sheriff and Civil District Court. In the dark 
recesses of these Moorish arches, on a late visit, 
was found an article of the same identity as that 
found by a traveller last year at Arethusa's Fount 
on the island of Cyprus — a Standard Oil Com-^ 
pany's tin can. 

Almonaster left a daughter, the Baroness Pon- 
talba, who inherited the land on St. Peter and St.' 
Ann streets, facing the square, and which Count 
O'Reilley granted to the town in the king's name^ 
She died in Paris, in 1874, leaving three sons. 

Every Saturday evening masses are offered for 
the repose of the soul of Don Andres Almonaster- 
y-Roxas, and at sunset of that day the tolling 
bell recalls his memory. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 93. 

THE PARROCCHIA ITALIANA, 

a queer old church, formerly used by the Jesuits, 
is situated at the corner of Conti and Rampart 
streets, and is worth a visit. 

THE RUE ROYALE. 

It was very picturesque, the Rue Royale. The rich and poor met 
together. The locksmith's swinging key creaked next door to the 
bank ; across the way, crouching mendicant Hke in the shadow of a 
great importing house, was the mud laboratory of the mender of broken 
combs. Light balconies overhung the rows of showy shops and stores 
open for trade this Sunday morning, and pretty Latin faces of the 
higher class glanced over their savagely-pronged railings upon the 
passers below. At some windows hung lace curtains, flannel duds at 
some, and at others only the scraping and sighing one-hinged shutter, 
groaning and sighing towards Paris after its neglectful master. — 
Posson Jont. 

That was sixty years ago. 

NOW. 

It is night, in October days, and the Rue Royale 
is brilliant with all the appliances of the Brush 
system of electric lighting. The narrow sidewalks 
are filled with moving figures of men of all clases, 
attracted hither like the moths around the bril- 
liant Boulton carbons. From a long distance up 
the street, led by a band of music, comes with 
rapid tread over the pavement of broad stones, a 
procession of a hundred or more members of some 



94 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

society or club. The air is resonant with music 
and human voices, a medley unaccompanied by 
the roar of wheels. Occasionally an open bar- 
ouche appears, with a lady or two, with bare heads, 
and lace shawls, accompanied by an escort ; ap- 
parently observers of the scene. As the varnished 
doors of restaurants, saloons, gaming houses and 
concert halls, swing upon their hinges, there are 
breathings outward of volumes of discordant 
sounds of human voices, mingled with the clash- 
ing of glasses and orchestral music. As these are 
passed, from the open windows of the stories 
above, are heard the shrill tones of the checking 
clerks, calling: ^' one sixty-seven,'' ''one eighty -four, '^ 
^^ twenty- one,' ^ ''seventy-eight," in quick, clear suc- 
cession. That is keno ! 

On we go, passing the tall Doric columns of the 
old Union Bank with its classic facade ; encount- 
ering huge piles of oysters banked up against the 
walls of entrances to restaurants ; again varnished 
doors swing to and fro, and broken volumes of 
uncultivated soprano voices, essaying solos, belch 
forth upon the summer air, while timid crowds 
of men stand upon the curbstones to catch a 
glimpse of female limbs draped in gauze of pink 
or blue ; men who have no money to spend 
inside, or whose consciences are not yet 
toughened. But as the orchestral music is thrown 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 95 

out Upon the pleasant air, the wonder worshipper 
is naturally drawn inside, perhaps to his sorrow, 
or perhaps with the satisfaction of a better knowl- 
edge of how some parts of the world move. He 
is in one of the Tivolis or concert halls of the 
street, where, arrayed in scant garments, but 
gorgeous in combinations of color, are young and 
middle aged ; youthful and fresh, together with 
wearied and worn, whited sepulcheres ; watching 
among the throng which enter, those whom their 
judgment dictates have money to spend or throw 
away upon them in remuneration for a display of 
their utter unconsciousness of virtue. 

The music keeps pace with peals of laughter ; 
glasses clink. Old roues jest and pat the cheeks 
of young girls ; young and inexperienced youths 
sit at the tables sipping wine, conscious of their 
very basfulness or out-of-place modesty. A police- 
man occasionally enters and looks passively on as 
the night passes. 

The female habitues of these palaces are not 
always natives. The north is drawn upon from 
New York to Chicago, and from whence repre- 
sentatives may be found. But let us leave these 
halls of "wine, women and song;" let us go up 
some of these brass-mounted stairways from 
whence come the cries of: "0-n-e s-e-v-e-n-t-y 
s-i-x," *' t-hi-r-t-y f-o-ur;" let us visit 



96 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 



*THE SENATE, 

a large elegantly appointed room like an exchange. 
But the brokers, the bulls and bears, they do not 
stand upon their feet ; they sit down. Neither do 
they shout. They are all silent — a hundred or 
more — silently gazing upon the small boards upon 
the tables beneath their eyes, while each index 
finger moves the button upon the spot covered 
by the figures as they are lustily called out (and 
which we heard upon the street below so often) 
by the one who sits upon the throne in the 
speaker's chair of this ''senate," and swings his 
Satanic majesty's censor, better known as the 
** goose," and at each swinging he presses upon a 
spring and out drops the ball upon which is the 
number called. Here in this large room filled 
with tables sit the devotees, while conversation is 
hushed. Occasionally a rap is heard upon a table; 
an attendant appears, notes the number of the 
board, and calls ''Keno!" The man who gave 
the rap has won. The other ninety and nine have 
lost. 

Is it very different outside ? In any or all the 
bucket shops, stock, grain or oil exchanges of the 
land ? Is not the principle more quickly and bet- 
ter illustrated herein ? 

Large squares of combinations of figures hang 



NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 9/ 

upon the walls, while the ever changing figures of 
the keno register move as automatically as those 
of the members' numbers at the New York Stock 
Exchange. 

In large alcoves with arched ceilings are sus- 
pended neat gilt sign-boards with : ''Rouge et 
noir" here, ''Roulette" there, at th^t end, 
"Grand Hazard" here, "Twenty-one" there, 
beneath which are the tables indicated by the sign- 
boards, and each surrounded by a group of men 
actively staking their ivory chips — men of all 
classes, young and old, richly dressed and some 
even barefooted, all anxious to receive their por- 
tion of fortune's bestowals. 

Other gilt signs upon the walls inform us that; 

" This game is open day and nights 
" Please report irregularities^ 
' ' Please see that your cards are pegged.'' 
^'A keno made on a board not pegged will not be paid.'' 

Other archways, under which are suspended the 
signs "Poker," lead into adjoining rooms, where 
are still other signs, stating that such and such tables 
are for "Draw Poker." These tables of eight 
persons, besides the banker and the dealer, are 
watched by lookers-on with keen interest, and as 
one player, more lucky than the others, increases 
his pile of ivory chips, bills and specie, congratu- 



98 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

latory hand-shakes are offered him, while the 
silent one, who, at the other end of the table, has 
been staking the largest and losing heavily, is not 
noticed. 

The god of success is worshipped, while no 
sympathy is shown the unfortunate one. Is this 
very different outside in the world ? 

Have you missed something — ye lovers of the 
gaming tables who read this ? But you can have 
it ! The Rue Royale can supply you with every 
convenience your yearnings crave. Directly 
across the street, up any of these brass mounted 
or golden stairs, that row of windows, second story ; 
there you will find a "strong house," and Faro 
the king. 

It is free ! free to all as water, without any show 
or thought of suppression, and the proprietors^ 
whose fifteen per cent, yield the city large sums^ 
have as excellent franchises as they who sell flour, 
bacon or cotton. 

AN AGED DATE PALM. 

In addition to what can possibly be described 
within the limits of this volume, there is much 
else which an observant eye will appreciate. In 
lot No, 53, Orleans Street, near the corner 
of Dauphine, stands a living monument of the 
past, which for more than a hundred years has been 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 99 

the wonder of the inhabitants, and a hundred years 
ago the oldest inhabitant knew not the time when 
it was not an antiquarian. It is a native of the 
East Indies or Africa. It is claimed that its like 
does not exist in the State, and never has ; but 
there are similar species in various parts of the 
city, and one fine one in the yard of Mr. Litch- 
field, on Rampart near Canal. However, this date 
palm is certainly the oldest, and towers fifty or 
sixty feet above high piles of wood, and is sur- 
rounded by humble barracks, in which both cattle 
and people reside. Its knarled and thick bark 
envelopes it for fifteen feet. Its diameter at the 
base is two feet. Its single stem rises forty feet 
higher, and from its top twenty or more long 
palm leaves wave above the low housetops. It 
bears huge blossoms, but no fruit. 

This tree was as great a wonder to the early 
settlers as to the citizens of to-day. What a his- 
torian, could it speak ! The botanist, De Can- 
doUe says these palms live to the age of six hun- 
dred and seven hundred years. It is but two 
squares behind the cathedral. Sit here upon the 
wooden steps of the low adobe covered dwelling, 
and look about you. Listen to the Creole patois. 
It will not be difficult to imagine yourself out of 
the United States. The New Englander who loves 
these things, will find antique studies in architec- 



100 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

ture in this quarter, go in whatever direction he 
may. At the corner of Orleans, opposite the 
garden at the rear of the cathedral, a sign an- 
nounces the following : 

Librarie de la famille. 

Articles religieux. 

Ornements W e glise. 

Chasaublerie. 

Livres classiques. 

Articles de Fantaisie. 

Go inside, near the approach of All Saints' 
Day, and see the great and endless variety of tomb 
ornaments displayed, the wax and paper flowers, 
enormous fancy wax candles, etc. 

The old dwelling in square 75, Rue de Orleans 
and Bourbon, opposite Faranti's theatre, will il- 
lustrate Cable's 'Old Creole Days' residences. 
Visit the old row of buildings on Chartres, for- 
merly occupied by the Ursulines. Go into the 
queer old courts, and see how they are arranged 
for dwellings, and ask if you are not in Jerusalem. 

If a balcony study is desired, visit the corner of 
St. Peters and Royal, or stand at the entrance to 
the Hotel Royal, and look down the length of the 
narrow court called Exchange Place. Seethe long 
rows of balconies upon either side, and the Bridge 
of Sighs that spans it. 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. lOI 

For typv^o of the old Franco-Spanish residences, 
with the tile roofs of Carondelet's time, see Nos. 
219 and 221 Rue Royale. This is beyond all the 
Washington headquarters in the country. At the 
corner of Ursulines and Chartres, opposite the 
archbishop's house, is another ; also at Dauphine 
and St. Philip, two stories and a gallery. 
Cable thus pictures one of 'these dwellings: 
''Number nineteen is the right-hand half of a 
single-story, low-roofed tenament, washed with 
yellow ochre, which it shares" generously with 
whoever leans against it." 

Visit No. 139 Royal. Note the relief afforded 
by the interior of this court filled with flowers and 
shrubbery — relief from the dinginess surrounding 
the entrance. From the Hotel Royal, take an 
hour's walk up Royal Street and vicinity. Note 
the strange visions that greet you through the 
many half opened entrances to Moorish arched 
courts beyond. In many of these dwellings the 
old patterns of half-circle windows, barred with 
iron, surmount the doors. 

On Toulouse, just back of the Hotel Royal, 
sombre and sad, stand the ruins of the Old Citi- 
zen's Bank building, whose one hundred and sixty 
kegs of five thousand Mexican dollars each, 
together with bank note plates and Confederate 
Bond plates, while under the protection of the 



\ 

I02 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Consul of the Netherlands, General Butler con 
fiscated. 

At 176 Canal, our youths will be reminded of 
Audubon, who was born in New Orleans. Here 
are stuffed birds and plenty of young stuffed alli- 
gators, in all stages of exit from the shell together 
with stuffed armadilloes. A desire to ascertain 
how oranges are packed and shipped, may be 
gratified by visiting the vicinity of the corner of 
Gravier and St. Peter's streets. 

General G. T. Beauregard, at present Adjutant 
General of State, is a resident, whose home is at 
No. 355 St. Charles Street. He has an office in 
St. Louis Hospital building. 

LUMBER. 

It you are curious to ascertain 'how the city is 
supplied with lumber, take the South Rampart 
Street cars to the corner of Julia Street, at the 
head of the basin or canal which leads to lake 
Ponchartrain. 

Here are huge piles of staves, wood, brick, 
white sand and lumber. But there is no stock of 
seasoned lumber kept on hand as in northern gities. 
It is mostly sold before it is brought by the 
schooners from the lake and it tributaries. A tug 
will tow ten or twelve of these lumber schooners. 
Here are also lying at the wharf, huge black 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. IO3 

barges covered with black cloth. Loaded as they 
are with charcoal, they look like immense funeral 
floats. 

OLD BOOK STORES. 

The old book stores to be found in the French 
quarter will serve as a treasure trove to many a 
visitor who loves these things. Presided over by 
decrepit old men or women, may be found old 
copies of Bossuet, Moliere, Racine, together with 
many curiosities in literature — the contents of 
private libraries of many old families of the city. 

** GALLERY ROOMS." 

In the ancient dwellings of the city, as well as 
in many of the modern, the upper halls are on 
the outside of the house, forming the balconies 
upon wings and rear, upon which the doors and 
windows open. These rooms are called ** gallery 
rooms," and when fronting pleasantly are very con- 
venient, but when in the rear, and the sunlight is 
obstructed' by brick walls, they are not so desira- 
ble. In the more ancient houses a huge fire-place 
almost invariably adorns every gallery room, 
together with the inevitable old-fashioned four-post 
bedstead, with a plaited roof of crimson cloth 
gathered at the centre, adorned with a centre piece 
of brass, and the whole enveloped in the folds of 
the very necessary mosquito bar. 



I04 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

When investigating the "chambres garnie?' a lour'* 
of the French quarter it is well to consider light 
and ventilation. ''Does the room look into the 
street?" And the reply often will be: ^' Non 
monsieur y elk donne sur le Jarden ; "and the garden 
will doubtless be the court, paved with flat stones, 
with a spot of earth here and there, from which 
rises a sturdy palm, Spanish bayonet, fig, pome- 
granite or orange tree. ''Is the apartment fur- 
nished?" Madame will assure you that it is, and 
that ^^ y a tout ce qui est necessaire ; et que V ameu- 
blernent en est fort beau,'' and that ^'tous les meubles 
sont d' acajou." All this may prove true, and 
the lodger secure very neat apartments,where the 
furniture is all mahogony, and so ancient that a 
Boston dealer would look upon it with envy. On 
the other hand, as is often the case, the furniture 
may be wretched, and hired from a second-hand 
dealer for the occasion. 

GENERAL BUTLER's HEADQUARTERS. 

At No. 5 1 Coliseum Street, and occupying the 
square between Urania and Felicity streets, stands 
a large two-story and basement, brown stuccoed 
mansion, surrounded by a row of magnolias and 
skirted with orange trees. This is the Harrison 
place, which General Butler appropriated to his 
own use for his headquarters. It is now owned 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 10$ 

by Wm. B. Schmidt, Esq., of the wholesale gro- 
cery house of Schmidt & Zeigler. During the 
Federal occupation, the army occupied barracks 
in Orleans Park, now the Exposition grounds, 
where were the headquarters of Generals Hatch 
and Hunt. 

THE CREOLES. 

George Cable and Colonel Waring, in their la- 
bors for the United States Census report, say: 

The term Creole, as applied to natives of Louisiana, belonged first 
to the French, and then to the Spanish — a certain excellence of ori- 
gin, including any native of French or Spanish descent, whose pure 
non-mixture with the slave race, entitled him to social distinction. 

Later, Africans mixing with European, French or Spanish, adopted 
the term, as Creole Africans, although not recognized by their Euro- 
pean kindred. There are French, Spanish and '"colored" Creoles, 
but no English, Irish, Scotch, or Yankee Creoles, In furtherance of 
this idea of excellence of origin in commerce, we may have Creole 
ponies, cows, or cabbages. 

In outward appearance, the Creoles had become the handsome well- 
knit race, that the freedom of their natural surroundings would have 
been expected to provide. Of a complexion lacking color, yet free 
from the sallowness of the Indies, there was a much larger proportion 
of blondes among them than is commonly supposed. Generally their 
hair was of a chestnut, or but little deeper tint, except that in the city 
a Spanish tincture, now and then, asserted itself in black hair and 
eyes. The women were fair, of symmetrical form, with pleasing fea- 
tures, lovely expressive eyes, well rounded throats, and superb hair ; 
vivacious yet decorous in manner and exceedingly tasteful in dress, 
adorning themselves with beautiful effect in draperies of muslins 
enriched with embroideries and much garniture of lace, but with the 
more moderate display of jewels which indicated a community of 
limited wealth. They were much superior to the men in keenness of 
wit, and excell them in amiability and many other good qualities. 



I06 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

The Creole shopkeeper does not soHcit you to 
buy. He condescends to wait upon you. You 
object? And as both heads clasp, then separate 
and swing outwardly, while the head goes to one 
side and the shoulders rise with a shrug, his 
ejaculation will not unlikely be : 

*' Soit. A voire plaisir,'' or ''Muy bieii, sea como 
lo quiere f/. " *'Just as you please," "It makes no 
difference to me," or "that is all right." He does 
not follow you to the door. He is content that 
you are gone. It is so unlike his ancestors across 
the water; but it is perhaps the Spanish in them, 
not la belle France. 

SUNDAY IN NEW ORLEANS. 

A Sabbath in New Orleans, to the stranger, 
might appear as any Sabbath in a Northern city, 
provided he sojourned up town, somewhere in the 
neighborhood of Trinity Church, corner of Jack- 
son and Coliseum streets. There he will see, pre- 
ceding the hour for morning service, groups of 
well-dressed children just out from Sunday-school, 
and on entering the church he will behold a good 
attendance and hear an excellent sermon ; and so 
in many other portions of the city. The whole- 
sale stores of the solid merchants of those streets 
south of Canal are closed. The streets are as 
quiet as those of Boston, and the merchants are 



NEW ORLEANS AS TT IS. 10/ 

at church or at their homes with their families. 
At the same time, at Christ's Church, on Canal, 
while Dr. Drysdale, with the font for his pulpit 
and the space outside the chancel rail for his plat- 
form, with his excellent extempore sermons, de- 
livered with great dramatic force, together with 
the influence of the highly cultivated music, is 
endeavoring to lead souls into the better life, in- 
side the very next adjoining walls of the Opera 
House, Ingomar is learning from Parthenia the 
beautiful theory of — 

" Two souls with but a single thought, 
Two hearts that beat as one," 

A bell may call one congregation, whilst a brass 
band and electric lights call the other. 

But on a Sunday morning visit the French quar- 
ter and French Market and he will see it at its 
best (or worst), crowded with young and old, well 
dressed and poorly dressed; some in carriages and 
some barefoot, purchasing the Sunday dinner. 
Throngs of girls, fresh from their devotions at 
low mass, are out for a promenade ; scores of 
young men there to meet them, and whom the 
flower-sellers earnestly solicit to buy. One may 
see a half-dozen little boys dressed for church, at- 
tentively watching the operations of a man with 
a card trick to catch the dimes, or listening to the 
tirade of the Mexican with his miraculous beans 



I08 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

from the Holy Land, and the curative powers of 
his South American ginger root, but this is noth- 
ing. Wait until evening when people residing in 
the American quarter are getting ready for church, 
then walk down St. Charles street and see the 
huge banks of young men, walled up against the 
doors of the theatres, pushing and pounding each 
other to get choice of seats in the galleries. If 
there are new attractions, the opening night is in- 
variably upon a Sunday. 

But this is nothing. Walk farther down St, 
Charles street, across Canal, and behold the bril- 
liantly lighted and famed Rue Royale. See the 
crowds of patronage the street itself possesses, 
and then enter any of the bar-rooms, gambling- 
rooms or Tivolis heretofore described, and you 
will behold them in the climax of their glory on 
a Sunday evening. 

But with all this, there is a wide awake organi- 
zation known as the Sunday League, and which 
has been persistently at work endeavoring to get 
the managers of the Exposition to agree to close 
the gates on the Sabbath day, and which at this 
writing is being considered, while packed Sunday 
evening meetings are held in churches where con- 
gregations unite in this effort, where Bishop Hugh 
Miller Thompson delivers timely addresses and 
says in substance : " The people of the North think 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. IO9 

New Orleans a very bad city ; a dangerous place 
for their boys to sojourn ; but it is not altogether 
true. New Orleans is not such a very bad place ; 
the people are not all bad ; there are great, pure, 
generous, noble Christian hearts earnestly work- 
ing for their fellow men here. There are bad places 
here as in all cities, but you will not find all of 
New Orleans in them. You will find none of Dr. 
Palmer's congregation there, nor none of Dr. 
Holland's." And so, there are thousands of the 
good people of New Orleans who would order a 
different Sabbath over the entire city if they 
could, but do not yet see the way. 

LOTTERIES. 

* * The institution drazving these Lotteries ivas reg- 
ularly incorporated by the Legislature of the State for 

EDUCATIONAL AND CHARITABLE PURPOSES." * 

So heads the scheme. It is possible New Or- 
leans may have inherited this business from Spain, 
for "The Royal Havana Lottery" is among the 
recollections of the oldest inhabitant. It has a 
firm foot-hold here, and influences all classes, from 
the crowd at the curbstone around the woman who 
places your hands upon a galvanic plate, causing 
a small gong to sound, while in a glass tube filled 
with alcohol a small imp arises, bows, disappears 
and, as the woman alleges, to write upon a sheet 



no NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

of paper a diagnosis of your future, which, in a 
sealed envelope, is handed you, and a dime handed 
to her — from this woman to her rival across Canal 
Street, the Mexican "doctor" with his harangue: 
"Here, gentlemen, yoCi see the male and female 
Mexican bean which I place in a glass of water. 
The male floats, and you observe the female sinks. 
Carry a pair of these in your pocket and your 
digestive organs will be free from disorder. Try 
your blood, gentlemen ! Try your blood ! It shows 
your circulation ; whether you have heart disease 
or liver complaint." He hands you a glass tube, 
with a bulb at each end, and containing a colored 
liquid, which a warm hand causes to flow from the 
bulb held by the hand to the bulb at the other 
end A cold hand will not accomplish it. This 
is his test of liver complaint and heart disease. 
"Try your blood, gentlemen; only five cents, 
and I give you with it a lucky bean from the 
Holy Land, which insures you success in all 
undertakings." See the dimes this man draws 
from the pockets of Superstition and Faith. 

See the blue and pink lottery tickets suspended 
upon lines in all the cigar store windows ! What 
do all these men and women of many nations, 
white and black, .stand in contemplative mood 
before these sheets of numbers for ? Why do they 
invariably select a particular combination of 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. Ill 

numbers? Is it not because they believe in the 
particular superstition that the particular 07ie will 
win ? Of course they believe. They do not 
buy tickets ! they ''play it,'' but they pay, just as 
well for them. 

*'You never play that?" said a street knife 
peddler whose stand was before one of these 
windows. * ' You never ? I know a man, a negro, 
he play in this window on 15 and he got ;^ 15,000 
prize — oh, yes, many play that." 

Yes, many do "play it" in some form or 
another, from the curb-stone to the funding of the 
city's debt. Hungry women have been known to 
sell the shoes from their feet to procure the means 
for purchasing a ticket. Men of means from the 
country have come to town to play it — as Herkimer 
county farmers go to Wall Street when there is a 
panic — and played it until they had blue and red 
tickets enough to paper the rooms they occupied 
and not strike it; the man who while on his way to 
procure medicine for his sick wife with a last five 
dollar note is induced to part with it for a whole 
ticket which draws the Capital prize. This and all 
other fortunate ones are heralded while the hun- 
dreds of thousands w^ho dare not tell the story of 
the money spent on tickets which was sorely 
needed for other purposes, is a secret. Fail to 
win ! why they need not, for here are little manuals 



112 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

for sale at twenty-fiv^e cents which teach how to 
*'play it to win by mere common sense calcula- 
tions and combinations." Oh, vain, vain expec- 
tation. Poor, poor fools, whose time, whose 
minds are thus diverted from the substantial, 
healthy ways of earning the bread they eat. The 
last dollar of many -and many a man is paid as a 
last straw to obtain means to procure the neces- 
saries of life for another week, to lose it. The 
personal appearance of many who are seen stak. 
ing their last dollar for a ticket — their worn and 
seedy clothes tell the tale of poverty following this 
beckoning, alluring demon of Hope. 

The headquarters of the Louisiana State lot- 
tery is the whole of the granite building corner of 
Union and St. Charles streets. Its main entrance 
is on St. Charles, and discloses a large room filled 
with desks and clerks, with all the p"^raphernalia 
of an ordinary bank. 

Rich and poor, old and young, ragged and well 
dressed, are entering and departing constantly, 
parting with their specie and currency and receiv- 
ing the blue, red and yellow tickets, which they 
carefully fold, with the faith that they may relieve 
a pressing need or increase their accumulations 
next week, or to-morrow, as the turn of the wheel 
may direct. 

It is said that this lottery is mostly owned by a 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 3 

prominent citizen of New Orleans who is a lover 
of good horse flesh, and who once desired a mem- 
bership in the Jockey Club on Esplanade Street. 
He made application and was promptly black- 
balled. His reply was: ''Very well, gentle- 
men, I'll turn your race-track into a burying- 
ground." A short time elapsed, when his agents 
were quietly at work securing a sufficient number 
of shares to give him ' the control. When this 
was done, he elected his own officers, and to 
carry out his threat ordered the sale of the track 
for cemetery purposes, and it is now known as the 
New St. Louis Cemetery. 

A MATINEE AT THE ACADEMY. 
Period 1884 — November 11, one act, one scene. 

On Stage left, a large wheel, six feet in diameter, 
resembling somewhat an over-shot waterwheel. 
It is about three feet in width and the sides are of 
plate glass. A shaft runs through the centre to 
which, upon each side, is attached a crank. 

Upon the stage right is a smaller wheel about 
two and a half feet in diameter, similar to the first 
except that its circumference is sheathed with 
brass. Near it, upon a box, lies a small white 
sack containing about four quarts of prizes. 

In the stage front and center, upon the carpet, 



114 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

lie eight sacks containing about two bushels each 
of numbers, and all tied and sealed. 

A group of three gentlemen are seated upon the 
left; one of medium low stature, about sixty years 
of age, dressed stylishly in black, with neatly 
close-cut white hair and mustache. 

The next most distinguished, ten years the sen- 
senior of the first, is dressed in garments of gray, 
hanging loosely over a form with stooping 
shoulders, a head partially bald and with flowing 
gray beard. The third, a taller gentleman than 
the others, younger, and dressed as if for an evening 
party or attendance upon a Cabinet meeting. 

Upon a sofa in the rear, are seated four little 
boys. At the wings ready for service, stand two 
negroes. A notary's table is on the left, another 
upon the right. Four gentlemen now enter and 
seat themselves at one of the tables ; at the same 
time three reporters enter and seat themselves at 
the other table. One of the negroes places before 
the footlights a walnut box about two feet square 
and in front of it a hassock. A youth of about 
fourteen enters and seats himself upon the hassock 
with back to the audience. 

The gentlemen rise from their seats, and form 
a group about one of the tables, and for a few 
minutes converse gaily in French. During all 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II 5 

this time the parquette and galleries are rapidly 
filling. 

The fashionably dressed gentleman of sixty, 
with gray, almost white hair, and close cut 
mustache, which is General Beauregard, takes his 
seat at the side of the wheel of brass upon the 
right. The gentleman with stooping shoulders, 
long beard and spectacles, which is General Jubal 
Early, takes his seat upon the left beside the huge 
wheel of glass. 

/'Shall we not commence, General? it is ten 
minutes to eleven," said one of the gentlemen 
from the rear, addressing General Beauregard. 
*'We may as well," responded the General, look 
ing at his watch. The negroes then appear and 
draw one of the large sacks forward. General 
Jubal Early arises and stands before it while Gen- 
eral Beauregard breaks the seal and unties the 
neck. The sack is then lifted, and its two bushels 
of numbers, each about two inches in length, 
rolled to the thickness of a pipe stem and held 
by a rubber band, are emptied into the wheel at a 
door in its outer edge. General Early looks into 
the sack to determine that all the tickets are out, 
then hands it to General Beauregard. General 
Early then remarks : * 'All out? " General Beaure- 
gard responds: ''AH out," as he throws into a 
corner the seal which was about the neck of the 



Il6 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

sack. This is repeated until the eight sacks are 
emptied, and the huge wheel through its transpar- 
ent sides is about half filled with sixteen bushels, 
supposed to be one hundred thousand bits of 
paper consecutively numbered. The two generals 
then repair to the brass wheel upon the left, where 
General Beauregard lifts the small white sack con- 
taining the four quarts of similar bits of paper 
supposed to number one thousand, and empties 
them into the wheel. These are the prizes. One 
of the small boys in knee pants then approaches 
General Beauregard, who places upon the child's 
eyes, a bandage, which reaches around the head, 
at the same time bareing the little arm to the 
elbow. Upon the left wing General Early, with' 
another child, achieves a similar work. 

**Are you ready, gentlemen?" enquired a 
portly, dignified looking man from the center. 
"We are ready," responded General Early. The 
two negroes then step forward and take their 
places upon each side of the large wheel, and with 
their hands upon the cranks, turn it until the con- 
tents roll upon each other, and the tickets are 
thoroughly mixed. The sound of these hundred 
thousand bits of paper revolving is like the music 
of Oliver Wendell Holmes' huckleberries, drop- 
ping from the measure into the pan. The revolu- 
tions cease, the two generals simultaneously open 



NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 11/ 

the doors to the wheels and the Httle bared arm 
is thrust into each, a number is drawn forth and 
handed to General Early, and another to General 
Beauregard. The former unrolls it and reads 
audibly, ''Twenty-nine thousand_, six hundred and 
seventy." The response, in a low but rapid tone 
from General Beauregard, as 'he unrolls his num- 
ber, is 'Fifty." A gentleman^ facing the audi 
ence from General Early's right, receives the 
ticket from the child, holds it up to the audience, 
and repeats in loud tones, "Twenty-nine thou- 
sand' six hundred and seventy," while another at 
General Beauregard's left, repeats ''Fifty dollars." 
Again the little hand goes into the wheel of fate, 
*'Ninety-tv/o thousand and forty-one, and "two 
thousand dollars" follow it. $ioo, $$o, $500 
$200, and other prizes are drawn during the space 
of five minutes, when a voice exclaims, "Next 
roll and change boys. " Two other little fellows 
take the places of the first, the negroes enter and 
set the wheels revolving until the tickets are 
again thoroughly mixed, the doors are opened 
and the drawing renewed. This is repeated every 
five minutes while the drawing lasts. ' As a play 
it becomes monotonous, but to the house of 
spectators every moment is one of intense interest, 
and when General Beauregard quietly and dis- 
tinctly ejaculates, "Seventy-five thousand," and 



115 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

the stentorian voice of the repeater, shouts 
*' Sixty-eight thousand, nine hundred and eighty 
draws the capital prize of seventy-five thousand 
dollars!" there is a loud murmur throughout the 
academy, messenger boys from the reporters are 
darting out between the flies, while the actors re- 
tire for a few moments ostensibly to ascertain 
where that ticket was sold. The drawing occupies 
about two and a half hours when the last prize is 
taken from the brass wheel. The numbers in the 
large wheel do not seem to have diminished. In 
fact only one per cent, of the entire number has 
been taken out. One of the announcers of num- 
bers then steps forward with this epilogue: 

''That's the last of the drawing, gentlemen. I 
hope you all drawed prizes." 

With many a sigh, for it is a great tragedy to 
the majority of the vast audience, the secret, sor- 
rowful hearts quietly depart. In many places the 
sidewalks are strewn with torn tickets, the cigar 
stores are now emptied of them, but to-morrow 
they will be replenished with the new scheme for 
the following month, and which will be heard of 
from the Atlantic to the Pacific, from New Orleans 
to Manitoba. 

cable's HOUSE. 

George W. Cable's home is on Eight Street, No. 
229. It has a very pretty yard flanked with 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. II9 

good sized orange trees well laden. In building 
this castle he has embodied none of the courts, 
porte-cochere, or Moorish arches of Franco-Spanish 
New Orleans, which he loves to describe, but the 
reverse. He has entirely ignored the low floor, 
on a level with the sidewalk, and has leaped into 
the air. He has perpetuated the architecture of 
the mansions of the lower Tennessee, above 
Paducah, where the best citizens, on account of 
high water, first erect the foundation of columns, 
and then commence and end on the second stgry, 
the porte-cochere being a ladder, which after ascend- 
ing is pulled in. Cable has improved upon the 
perspective architectural views of that country by 
growing roses and jessamines in front of his 
columns, and bananas in the rear so as to hide 
his back yard from, the curious in their efforts to 
peer through. Instead of the ladder, he has a 
flight of substantial wooden steps, the width of 
whicji was governed by the space between two 
old orange trees, which guard them upon either 
side. It is thought that he entrusted the building of 
the cottage to his friend Col. George E. Waring, 
who by thus elevating it upon columns got in all 
his well known principles on ventilation and 
drainage. During Cable's absence east with Mark 
Twain, the cottage is occupied by Joaquin Miller, 
who is here wrestling to down the imageries of the 



120 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Sierras in describing the manners and customs of 
the Creoles. In his pen pictures of All Saints 
day, he presents the tombs in the cemeteries, as a 
pack of army wagons coralled upon a prairie. 

A SUGAR PLANTATION. 

The nearest large sugar plantation to the city is 
that owned by the estate of the late Oakes Ames, 
of Massachusetts. It lies on the opposite side of 
the river from the Exposition grounds, and is 
easy of access via the Choupitoulas and Levee 
horse-cars, stopping at Upper Line Ferry, where 
a sail-boat is waiting for passengers. On reaching 
the opposite bank a cluster of ancient brick build- 
ings, enclosed within a paling, greet the eye. On 
descending from the levee bank to the store and 
office, one feels on looking back that he is inside 
a fort, so high do the earthworks of the levee 
appear. The office of the plantation is within 
the store, where is kept the usual general assort- 
ment of a country store, to supply the hands. 

Near the store and residence are long rows of 
one-storied brick dwellings, shingled with staves. 
These are the old negro quarters used before the war, . 
and are yet quite comfortable. A short distance 
from them is the sugar house or mill, and from the 
beginning of November, when cane cutting begins, 
until January, it is a busy place. The cane fields 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 121 

commence near the sugar house, and extend near- 
ly two miles, or as far as the soil is planted. 
Deep canals or ditches traverse these bottoms, 
intersected by smaller ditches. From this deep, 
alluvial soil the thick rows of cane, planted in 
ridges about six feet apart, grow to a height of 
twelve and fifteen feet, and on looking down these 
long avenues of thick, dark, purple stalks, the 
waving blades become a canopy of green over- 
head. 

With heavy, cleaver-like knives, the rows of labor- 
ers cut and strip each individual stalk separately, 
while the overseer in his saddle is eyeing every 
one. It is a pretty scene in agriculture to witness 
these long rows of negroes ; to listen to their ludi- 
crous conversation, and hear the swish of the cut- 
ting .knives as they descend upon the juicy stalks 
which sweeten the world ; to stand upon the ele- 
vated banks of these large ditches, and look over 
the line of cane-cutters to the sea of waving green 
beyond, and further still to the tall chimneys of the 
sugar houses, belching forth the black smoke. At 
one's feet, from among the rank grass, rise the still 
bright golden rod and small aster, while the crickets 
and other insects make sounds of summer that 
remind one of home far, far away in the north. 

The cane is planted in layers on the ridges of 
deep furrows five or six feet apart. When it is 



122 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

cut, from the stubble the next crop springs up for 
the following season; when that is cut, some 
planters plow the land and put in a crop of pea- 
vine by way of rotation before planting again. 
The leaves on being stripped are left upon the 
ground to be plowed under as a fertilizer. The 
cane is loaded upon carts driven by a negro with 
three mules abreast — a la chaiiot — to the mill. A 
tramway and cars drawn by mules also bring the 
cane to the mill from another direction. From 
the piles where the carts deliver it, men place the 
stalks upon aprons or carriers of canvass, five feet 
wide, like the carriers to a threshing machine, 
which convey them, gradually ascending to the 
next story of the mill, where two men feed the 
stalks to a huge drum or roller, which draws the 
cane through, crushing and pressing out the juice. 
From this roller the crushed cane is carried to an- 
other fifteen feet further on, where it is again drawn 
through rollers and every vestige of saccharine 
pressed from it. After this last pressing, the cane 
is so dry it is carried upon aprons directly to the 
furnace fires and burned, supplying nearly all the 
fuel necessary for the steam used. From the 
rollers a small river of cane juice is constantly 
flowing to the boiling tanks. These are very 
numerous in long rows, and from them the juice or 
syrup, when a certain degree of saccharine gravity 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 123 

(if the term may be used) is reached, is taken to 
tanks in an adjoining room, where it rests until it 
has settled. From thence it is elevated to the 
vacuum evaporator. This is about eight feet in 
diameter at the base, in shape like a Minnie ball, 
or may be Hkened to the upper end of Jules 
Verne's projectile, in which the journey to the 
moon was taken. That had a round window from 
whence observations outside could be made. This 
has a circular window, firmly bound with brass 
to the strong iron casing, through which observa- 
tions can be made inside to ascertain how the 
boiHng is progressing. Inside this iron shell, 
coils of steam pipes keep the thickening syrup 
in a restless condition until it is evaporated. 

As the hour approaches for a "strike," as it is 
called, the sugar boiler every few moments draws 
from the hopper or base of the shell, by means of 
a brass tube which penetrates it, a sample of the 
boiling syrup, and by dexteriously manipulating it 
between the forefinger and thumb, determines 
whether it has sufficient grain, if the syrup is de- 
parting from it, and if it is in a condition to draw. 

When the time arrives for ''the strike," the 
steam is cut off from the coils, a gong is sounded 
and the men take their places below, as they would 
in taking a charge of iron from a furnace stack, 
The valve at the base or hopper is then opened. 



124 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

and into a shute the mass of saccharine flows — a. 
river of hot sugar — into huge vats called the vac- 
uum pans, through which a shaft, with arms at- 
tached, revolves, to keep the sugar from settling; 
from these it descends in streams into the centri- 
fugal drums below, whose twelve hundred revolu- 
tions per minute separates effectually every frac- 
tion of a pennyweight of syrup from every grain 
of sugar, and the latter on its metamorphosis 
falls into large wheelbarrows, is then wheeled into 
an adjoining room and emptied into channels con- 
taining endless screws, carrying it to elevators, 
thence to the dryers or granulators above, and 
from them descends pure white sanded crystals 
into barrels below, and is packed and headed up 
in much less time than is required to describe it- 
From the vacuum evaporator, to dry white grain 
sugar less than five minutes' time is taken. A 
strike from this evaporator will yield fourteen 
thousand pounds of sugar, with an average of 
three strikes in twenty-four hours, or twenty-one 
tons a day. 

The cane yield upon this plantation is from fif- 
teen to twenty tons per acre. A ton of cane pro- 
duces about one hundred and thirty-five pounds of 
sugar. An average hand will cut and strip three 
tons of cane a day ; an extra hand, five tons a 
day. An evaporater alone, like this one, would 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 25 

cost about as much as a locomotive, or eight 
thousand dollars. The machinery or plant of a 
sugar house like this would represent an invest- 
ment of from sixty thousand to eighty thousand 
dollars. There are several thousand acres of land 
in this plantation, but not over five hundred acres 
in cane. Like many others it has suffered severely 
from crevasses, the great river being a constant 
source of terror. 

Sugar cane is a barometer of the season of 
1884, illustrated as follows : Near the base of the 
stalk the spaces between the joints were short. 
This represents the protracted rainy season of 
spring, when the cane was in its infancy. Longer 
spaces farther up, denote fair cane weather dur- 
ing early summer. Contracted spaces again near 
the top, denote the severe drouth of the autumn 
of that year. 

TO THE JETTIES. ^ 

Steamboats leave at eleven a. m., daily at the 
head of Conti Street, for the Jetties, arriving at about 
midnight, and start on the return trip about seven 
A. M. next day. There is a hotel for the accom- 
modation of those who may desire to spend a day. 

This is an enjoyable trip, giving visitors an op- 
portunity for a short ride upon the Father of 
Waters, where it is at its best, as well as a chance 
to view the great work of Captain Eads. It is 



126 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

about eighty miles to Forts St. Philip and Jack- 
son. From the forts to the head of the passes it 
is about twenty miles, from thence to Fort Eads 
twelve miles, where the jetties commence, extend- 
ing one and a half miles to the gulf. This trip 
covers territory representing some of the best 
rice, sugar and orange plantations in Louisiana. 
The total rice crop of Plaquemine Parish for 1883 
was 74, OCX) barrels, and the crop of sugar was 
15,552 hogsheads. The first orange plantation 
commences at Chalmette on the east bank, three 
miles below, and the first rice plantation is on the 
west bank five miles below. Two miles below 
that upon the same side of the river, is Corrinne 
plantation, which produced last year 1,500,000 
pounds of sugar. Fifteen miles below, on the 
left bank is the Charles Villere plantation, where 
General Beauregard was raised. A mile below 
this is "Terrre au Boeuf," or Beef Prairie, where 
the Shell Beach Railroad terminates. This is at 
'*Eno;lish Turn," the bend in the river where Bien- 
ville advised the Englishman who had come to 
start a colony in Louisiana, to turn back, and he 
did so. 

Nineteen miles and we reach H. P. Kernochen's 
sugar plantation, " Scarcedale, " on the left bank, 
which produced during the season of 1883, i,ii9r 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 12/ 

ooo pounds of sugar. This is said to be one of the 
finest plantations in the State. 

Twenty-two miles below is Simpson Horner's 
"Stella " plantation. 

Rice, sugar and orange plantations continue, 
among them being "Ste. Rosalie," thirty-three 
miles, producing 760,000 pounds refined sugar; 
** Myrtle Grove," owned by State Senator Wil- 
kinson, thirty-five miles below on right bank ; 
Harlem, Bellevue, and many others. 

The first rice mill is the Farmers, on the left 
bank, forty-two miles below. The Court House 
mill, two miles further, and others follow. Ex- 
Governor Warmouth's plantation, " Magnolia," lies 
on the west bank, forty-five miles below. It pro- 
duced, in 1883, 1,000 hogsheads of sugar. 

Sixty miles below, on the right bank, is the 
Johnson orange plantation, containing, it is said, 
11,000 bearing trees. 

Next we reach the forts where Farragut ran the 
gauntlet described elsewhere in this book. Below 
the forts there is but little cultivation, being 
mostly in swamp. 

On this trip many varieties of craft are met, 
from the oyster smack to the Bremen steamer, 
together with many hulls from various parts of 
the world. 



128 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

The following from the Times- Democrat is a 
good description of Captain Eads' achievement: 

The jetties extend from South Pass across the bar into the Gulf. 
The total length of the east jetty, as constructed, was 12, 100 feet, or 
nearly two and one-third miles ; the west jetty terminates opposite the 
east jetty, but its total length is only about one and a half miles, the 
difference being due to the greater extension of the natural banks on 
the west side of the pass. Without entering into a detailed account 
of the method of constructing the jetties, their mode of structure may 
be briefly stated to be with willow mattresses, laid m layers, and 
weighted with stone, and on this foundation a concrete wall is built. 
After successfully surmounting innumerable engineering difficulties 
and embarrassments of the most formidable character. Captain Eads 
achieved a glorious triumph in his great undertaking, and the jetties 
-were practically completed in July, 1879. 

This improvement on the channel continues from year to year. The 
latest reports show that the shoalest locality in South Pass this year is 
seven hundred feet above East Point, where the least depth is twenty- 
nine feet, and the least width of the twenty-six foot channel is two 
hundred and forty feet. Last year, 1883, the least depth of the chan- 
nel throughout the pass was twenty-seven feet ; and the twenty-six foot 
channel was one hundred and sixty feet wide, a deepening of two feet 
in the least depth and a gain of eighty feet in width in the twenty-six 
foot channel. 

Coming to the jetties proper the improvement is still more conspicu- 
ous. The least depth last year was thirty-one feet ; to-day it is thirty- 
four feet, a deepening of three feet. In 1883 the thirty foot channel 
vv^as ninety feet wide and the twenty-six foot channel two hundred and 
forty feet. The report this year shows a width for the former of one 
hundred and fifty feet, a gain of sixty feet ; and for the latter of two 
hundred and seventy feet, a gain of thirty feet — all this done by the 
action of the water alone and without the aid of the dredge-boat, which 
has not operated since February 22, 1883, and with a very small force 
of workingmen employed. 

The present condition of the jetties, as far as depth of water is con- 
cerned, may be given about as follows : Least depth in pass above 
jetties, twenty-nine feet ; least width of twenty-six foot channel in pass 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 29 

above jetties, two hundred and forty feet ; least depth through jetties, 
thirty-four feet ; least width of twenty-six foot channel through jetties, 
two hundred and seventy feet ; least width of thirty foot channel 
through jetties, one hundred and fifty feet ; least depth of outlet into 
gulf beyond jetties, thirty-two and ei^ht hundreths feet ; least width 
•of thirty foot channel of outlet into gulf beyond jetties, one hundred 
and twenty feet. 

The channel through the year has sensibly improved with approxi- 
mation to uniformity of depth. That is, the jetties, instead of having 
a rough and uneven bottom, are growing more regular and uniform, with 
nearly the same depth throughout. 

Since their completion the jetties have been put to the severest tests, 
and the repeated and safe passage through them of vessels of the 
largest draught have completely demonstrated their success. Among 
the latest triumphs of the jetties was in 1883, when the immense Eng- 
lish cable steamship, the "Silvertown" — acknowledged to be the 
largest vessel with the largest cargo that ever left New Orleans — went 
out to sea successfully. The dimensions of the Silvertown were : 338 
feet in length ; depth of hold to top deck, 42 feet ; beam, 55 feet. On 
the trip referred to she carried a cargo consisting of 10,618 bales of 
cotton, 319 tons of oil cake, 24,193 bushels of grain, 10,750 wood 
staves, 1,000 tons of coal, and water ballast, 275 tons. With this cargo 
her draught of water was 25 feet 4 inches aft and 22 feet 1 1 inches for- 
ward. Vessels have passed through the jetties with a heavier drauglit 
than the Silvertown. The " City of New York," a short time before, 
went through wfth a draught of 25 feet 10 inches, but she was a com- 
paratively narrow ship, with a sharp bottom ; the Silvertown, on the 
contrary, had an enormous breadth of beam, and was nearly as broad 
at the bottom as the top, being nearly flat-bottomed. Ii was a splen- 
did testimonial to the complete success ot the jetties. 

MARDI GRAB. 

The festival preceding the first of Lent or 
Ash Wednesday, is one of special interest in New 
Orleans, and the city is distinguished for the 
splendor she gives to her favorite holiday, the 



130 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

*'Mardi Gras," or "Fat Tuesday." Most of the 
distinctive ceremonies now annually performed 
were ori^^inally introduced by the French popula- 
tion as early as 1827, and for many years their 
celebration was confined chiefly to them. One of 
the leading features has been the procession of the 
**Bceuf Gras," the ox gorgeously dressed and at- 
tended through the streets with much pomp by 
large numbers of gaily and grotesquely masked 
butchers. Everything pertaining to these festiv- 
ities now comes within the control of an elaborate 
organization. The day, Mardi Gras, is a legal hol- 
day, and the whole city is for the time ostensibly 
placed under the control of a King of the Carni- 
val, the mysterious and mighty "Rex." There 
are two principal pageants. The first, in the day 
time, is the escort of the " beloved Rex" through 
his favorite city. He is seated on a magnificent 
car, high above the heads of the people, his ap- 
proach heralded as only royalty used to be, at- 
tended by his own special guard and foreign 
soldiery, as well as the United States military and 
marines. The illusion of a powerful monarch vis- 
iting his dominions is most curiously sustained to 
the minutest detail. The night pageant is known 
as th£ " Mystic Krewe of Comus," This has a 
character altogether unique. The first display 
was in 1857. The proceedings are kept entirely 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 1 31 

secret; nothing is known but that the Krewe will 
again make their appearance, but whence they 
come, of whom composed, and what is to be the 
character of the entertainment, is kept in pro- 
found mystery till they suddenly reveal them- 
selves to the curious and always delighted specta- 
tors. It is a series of tableaux drawn upon im- 
mense floats, brilliantly illuminated, illustrative of 
great classic poems of striking events in the 
world's history, ancient and modern, as ''Paradise 
Lost," "The Iliad," "The Historic Charactersof 
America," "Audubon and His Birds," and 
''Scenes from the Ancient Scriptures." These 
displays evince a rare combination of classic erudi- 
tion, taste and ingenuity, presented with a com- 
pleteness and gorgeousness as bewildering as it is 
beautiful. The day's pageants close with combi- 
nation tableaux at the theatres, Avith a ball, and 
with the grand court ball of "Rex," at which he 
choses a queen, who shares his greatness for the 
evening. During this festival many grotesque 
scenes and processions of maskers appear in the 
streets. The throwing of flour in the streets is 
now prohibited. 

The appearance of his Royal Highness is now 
publicly announced for Mardi Gras, February 17, 
1885, when the brilliant pageants of the Krewe of 
Proteus and Knights of Momus will take place. 



132 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

ELCTION DAY IN NEW ORLEANS ! 

During the Centennial Exposition at Philadel- 
phia, the writer visited various voting- precincts 
on the day of the Presidential election in that city, 
and, being in New Orleans on the second Tuesday 
in November, 1884, a comparison of events is 
certainly in order, in view of the apparent want 
of truthful information on the part of thousands 
of Northern people who are led to believe that 
scenes of danger and bloodshed are constantly oc- 
curring. Philadelphia is cited in comparison be- 
cause the outlying wards of the city — the precincts 
lying towards the upper end of Chestnut street — 
may be truthfully likened to the voting precincts 
of the old French Quarter in New Orleans on the 
day of the last Presidential election, in point of 
order, quiet, and entire absence of any noisy or 
boisterous conversation. No quarrels, no threat- 
ening language, nor display of firearms Vv^as seen 
— no crowds even around the polls ; voters leisurely 
coming forward, selecting their tickets from the 
tables on the sidewalk, depositing their votes and 
departing to attend to their business. The drink- 
ing places were closed, and as far as quiet goes, it 
was a far better Sunday than the ordinary day. 

•'BULL RUN RUSSELL'S". PEN PICTURES OF NEW ORLEANS IN l86l. 

At night the steamer entered a dismal canal, through a swamp which 
is infamous as the most mosquito haunted place along the infested 



NEW ORLEANS AS FT IS. 1 33 

shore ; the mouths of the Mississippi themselves beins: quite innocent 
compa-red to the entrance of Lake Ponchartrain. When I woke up 
at dayhght, I found the vessel lying alongside a wharf with a railway 
train alongside, which is to take us to the city of New Orleans, six 
miles distant. 

A village of restaurants, or " restaurats, " as they are called here, 
and of bathing boxes has grown up around the terminus ; all the 
names of the owners, the notices and sign-boards being French. Out- 
side the settlement the railroad passes through a swamp, like an In- 
dian jungle, through which the overflowings of the Mississippi creep 
in black currents. The spires of New Orleans rise above the under- 
wood and semi-tropical vegetation of this swamp, Nearer to the city 
lies a marshy plain, in which flocks of cattle, up to the belly in the 
soft earth, are floundering among the clumps of vegetation. The 
nearer approach to New Orleans by rail lies through a suburb of ex- 
ceedingly broad lanes, lined on each side by rows of miserable, mean, 
one-storied houses, inhabited, if I am to judge from the specimens I 
saw, by a miserable and sickly population. 

A great many of the men and women had evident traces of negro 
blood in their veins, and of the purer blooded whites many had the 
peculiar look of fishy-fleshy population of the Levantine towns, and 
all were pale and lean. The railway termmus is marked by a dirty, 
barrack-like shed in the city. Selecting one of the numerous tumble- 
down hackney carriages, which crowded the streets outside the station, 
I directed the man to drive me to the house of Mr. Mure, the British 
consul, who had been kind enough to invite me as his guest for the 
period of my stay in New Orleans. 

The streets are badly paved, as those of most of the American 
cities, if not all that I have ever been in, but in other respects they 
are more worthy of a great city than are those of New York. There 
is an air thoroughly French about the people — cafes, restaurants, bil- 
liard-rooms abound, with oyster and lager-bier saloons interspersed. 
The shops are all magazines ; the people in the streets are speaking 
French, particularly the negroes, who are going out shopping with 
their masters and mistresses, exceedingly well dressed, noisy, and not 
unhappy looking. The extent of the drive gave an imposing idea of 
the size of New Orleans — the richness of some of the shops, the ve- 
hicles in the streets, and the multitude of well-dressed people on the 



134 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

pavements, an impression of its wealth and the comfort of the inhab- 
itants. The Confederate flag was flying from the pubHc buildings 
and from many private houses. Military companies paraded through 
the streets, and a large proportion of men were in uniform. 

The streets are full of Turcos, Zouaves, Chasseurs ; walls are cov- 
ered with placards of volunteer companies ; there are Pickwick rifles 
La Fayette, Beauregard, MacMahon guards, among whom the Mea- 
gher rifles, indignant with the gentleman from whom they took their 
name, because of his adhesion to the North, are going to rebaptise 
themselves, and to seek glory under one more auspicious. In fact, 
New Orleans looks like a suburb of the camp at Chalons. Tailors are 
busy night and day making uniforms. I went into a shop with the 
consul for some shirts — the mistress and all her seamstresses were busy 
preparing flags as hard as the sewing-machines could stitch them, and 
could attend to no business for the present. The Irish population, 
finding themselves unable to migrate northwards, and being without 
work, have rushed to arms with enthusiasm to support southern insti- 
tutions, and Mr. John Mitchell and Mr. Meagher stand opposed to 
each other in hostile camps. 

I dined with Major Ranney, the president of one of the railways, 
with whom Mr. Ward was stopping. Among the company were Mr. 
Eustis, son-in-law of Mr. Slidell ; Mr. Morse, the Attorney-Genera^ 
of the State ; Mr. Moise, a Jew, supposed to have considerable influ- 
ence with the Governor, and a vehement politician ; Messrs. Hunt 
and others. The table was excellent, and the wines were worthy of 
the reputation which our host enjoys, in a city where Sallusts and 
LucuUi are said to abound. One of the slave servants who waited at 
table, an intelligent yellow "boy," was pointed out to me as a son of 
General Andrew Jackson. 

We had a full account of the attack of the British troops on the 
city, and their repulse. Mr. Morse denied emphatically that there was 
any cotton bale forti^cation in front of the lines, where our troops were 
defeated ; he asserted that there were only a few bales, I think seventy- 
five, used in the construction of one battery, and that they and some 
sugar hogsheads constituted the sole defence of the American trench. 
Only one citizen applied to the State for compensation, nn a < -:- t 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 135 

of the cotton used by Jackson's troops, and he owned the whole of 
the bales so appropriated. 

If an apology is needed by those Southern read- 
ers who desire a veil drawn over the "bloody 
chasm" of the past, because of the somewhat 
len^^thy description of the Farragut engagement 
with Forts Jackson and St. Philip, and other events 
incident thereto relating to New Orleans and de- 
scribed in this book, it is hereby freely given. 
The persons mostly interested in these matters are 
those whose hands did the work — the Confederate 
and Federal soldiers, sailors and marines. The 
true Confederate soldier desires no apology and 
would treat it as ridiculous — the energetic hand of 
the Confederate which savagely grasped the musket 
that sent the deathly messenger, with earnest ten- 
derness, now grasps the hand of the Federal 
soldier while they draw near to talk of the dangers 
they have passed. Thousands of Federal soldiers 
who are fast passing away, will now make their first 
visit to former scenes of slaughter, and any light 
that can be given them relating to locations, will 
be most assuredly appreciated. That there is a 
reticence on these subjects in the publications for 
the information of strangers visitng New Orleans, 
is to be regretted. The Federal soldier has noth- 
ing offered him which will refreshen his memory, 



136 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

and unless a Confederate soldier is met with who 
is possessed of information on the subject, he is 
left completely in the dark without any means of 
informing himself as to an important event in the 
history of New Orleans, in which he doubtless 
was a participant. This reticence on the part of 
publishers must arise from a false modesty entirely 
foreign to the subject. The twelve thousand five 
hundred white headstones, with names from Maine 
to New Mexico, standing in Chalmette Cemetery, 
will not down, neither v/ill the monuments in 
Greenwood and Metarie Road, erected to the 
memory of the Confederate dead. These small 
headstones, white and clean, are the cards of those 
which you have among you constantly. Sons of 
many of those who lie buried there, will embrace 
this opportunity of visiting the spot, and those 
participators of the struggle, who are living, the 
Federal soldiers, when tJieir cards are presented 
to their Confederate soldier friends, is anyone fool- 
ish enough to suppose that their conversation will 
be merely formal, avoiding all allusions to the 
conflict, instead of going into every detail, refresh- 
ing and correcting the memory of each other with 
a warmth and. friendship born in sympathy with 
the dangers they have passed ? The frequent in- 
tercourse of Federal with Confederate soldiers, 
throughout the South, during the past few years, 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 137 

has taught the fact that any dissenting view is 
ridiculous. 

Have we done New Orleans ? Have we seen it, 
as it is? And our tired feet, do they bear evidence 
as to the thousands and thousands of square feet of 
surface in the Exposition Buildings ? Are our ears 
dulled with the combination of noises— the music of 
bands, the chiming of bells, of fog-horns, the rat- 
tle of machinery, the gongs of the steam cars of 
Canal Street; the strange cries of street venders, 
the noise of mule cars and vehicles? Then let 
us jump aboard the cars at the station of the 
Louisville & Nashville Railroad, head of Canal 
Street, and start down the Gulf coast. O, what a 
rehef to leave the last link of suburban civiliza- 
tion, the low, one-storied, dormer-window roofed 
houses with solid green wooden blinds, hiding 
every vestage of glass from sight, and look out 
again into Nature's haunts, into the broad savannas, 
•endless plains of salt marsh stretching away to the 
east, away to the west, great masses of long grass 
as far as the horizon ; the green and brown relieved 
by vast clouds of white flowers, and tall groups of 
brilliant golden rod. Here and there great fires 
have blackened the plain close to the roots of the 
long grass, and in the morning sun the water 
sparkles through the black surface like diamonds. 



138 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

Here are broad bayous with pretty islands of green 
cane, sitting like great boquets upon the placid 
waters, and as we approach, a group of Spanish 
curlews, a white crane or a few pelicans arise into 
the air, the latter soaring away in single file. 

And the swamps ! Slimy pools of green — or, 
perhaps a fire has painted them brown or black — 
too thick to ripple, and look as though an alliga- 
tor's nose would cause an elevation but not break 
the surface. See how the naked gray cypress 
trunks rise like immense stalagmites, and the 
great thick, long mantles of dark moss droop- 
ing like stalactites. See the lowly palms, 
their outer edges whitened with fire, brightening 
the gloom with light, like pin-wheels of fire amid 
the damp : they almost laugh like sprites. It is 
like a solemn lonely cavern, the haunt of spirits. 
No wonder Pascagoula Bay has its legend, a mer- 
maid queen, whose music can be heard to this 
day. Such places, such scenes, are breeding 
grounds of the supernatural. 

In 1727 Governor Perier visited the spot near 
the mouth of the Pascagoula River, where on 
calm, moonlight nights is heard strange music, 
like distant aeolian harps, which appears to issue 
from grottoes in the bottom of the river. Tradi- 
tion says a tribe formerly existed here, who wor- 
shipped the idol of a mermaid, and lived on oys- 



NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 139 

ters and fish — a harmless race. In 1540 a priest 
appeared among them, and with cross in hand 
endeavored to convert them, when one moonlight 
night, upon the crest of a wave, a beautiful mer- 
maid appeared, singing : 

" Come to me, come to me, children of the sea. 

Neither bell, book nor cross shall win you from your queen." 

At this they all plunged into the sea, and were 
never heard of more. The music is still there. 

Eighteen miles from the city we reach Fort 
Pike, which was occupied by Louisiana troops in 
1 86 1, and thirty miles brings us to the Rigolets, 
pronounced Rigolais, the entrance from Lake 
Borgne to Lake Ponchartrain. It is a charming 
ride along here, the car windows being high 
enough over all to scan the horizon for miles. 
Thirty-eight miles brings us to Pearl River and 
Grand Plains, and fifty-three miles to Bay St. 
Louis. Fifteen miles back of Bay St. Louis, close 
to Bayou La Croix, in the Devil's Swamp, remain 
some fifty or sixty of the once powerful Choc- 
taws. They are Christians now, and have a little 
Catholic church — "The Church of the Holy 
Cross." But they are Choctaws still, have no 
large herds, like those of their tribe in the Indian 
Nation, but live by logging, raising sweet pota- 
toes, making baskets and selling Choctaw and 
wahaka roots for bitters. 



140 NEW ORLEANS AS IT IS. 

From Bay St. Louis, east, the shore is dotted 
with handsome summer residences and cottages. 
Pass Christian, Mississippi City, Beauvoir — where 
ex-President Jefferson Davis resides — Biloxi, 
Bienville's first capital. Ocean Springs, West and 
East Pascagoula, all have excellent hotels, a good 
beach and avenues of shade of magnolia and live 
oak. Thunder showers prevail in winter, when 
it seems like Long Branch in June, but with a 
greater abundance of shade upon the beach. The 
railroad courses through the pine woods, and from 
it one can get no idea of the appearance of the 
coast, half a mile distant. At Pass Christian one 
can remain in comfort, and do the Exposition by 
morning and evening trains with low fares, as well 
as if located at Rye or Yonkers and the Exposi- 
tion was in New York. From these points along 
the coast short excursions can be made to Cat Isl- 
and, Ship Island, Isle au Pied, where in winter 
wild geese are plenty, as well as snipe, ducks and 
curlew, while the waters yield sheeps-head, red 
fish, croakers, flounders and Spanish mackerel 
With plenty of time at command, the coast is the 
place to stay, see the Exposition and rest. 



The World's Industrial 

— AND — 

COTTON CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION. 
Opening Dec. i6, 1884, Closing May 31, 1885. 



OFFICERS OF THE EXPOSITION. 

BOARD OF MANAGEMENT : 

EDMUND RICHARDSON, E. M. HUDSON, 

ALBERT BALDWIN, JULES C. DENIS, 

WM. B. SCHMIDT. SIMON HERNSHEIM, 

F. C. MOREHEAD, SAM'L. H. BUCK, 

GOV. R. M. PATTON. |NO. V. MOORE, 

THOS. HARDEMAN, Jr., G. A. BREAUX, 
DUNCAxN F. KENNER. 

EXECUTIVE OFFICERS : 

EDMUND RICHARDSON, President. 
ALBERT BALDWIN, First Vice President. 
WM. B. SCHMIDT, Second Vice President. 
RICHARD NIXON, Secretary. 
JOHN B. LAFITTE, Treasurer. 

E. A. BURKE, Director General. 

F. C. MOREHEAD, Commissioner General. 

G. M. TORGERSON, Supervising Architect. 
S. H, OILMAN, Consulting Engineer. 

F. N. OGDEN, Chief Superintendent. 

CHIEFS OF DEPARTMENTS : 

DR. G. B. LORING, Chief of Agriculture. 

PARKER EARLE, Chief of Horticulture. 

B. K. BRUCE, Chief Department Colored Exhibits. 

SAME. MULLEN, Chief of Installation. 

B. T. WALSHE, Chief of Information and Accommodation. 

CHAS, L. FITCH, Chief of Transportation. 

WM. H. H. JUDSON, Chief of Printing and Publishing. 



142 THE EXPOSITION. 



THE WORLD'S INDUSTRIAL AND COT- 
TON CENTENNIAL EXPOSITION. 

ITS SCOPE. 

The following is an enumeration of the different 
groupings of exhibits : 

1. Agriculture, 6. Furniture and Accessories, 

2. Horticulture, 7. Textile Fabrics, Clothing and Accessories, 

3. Pisciculture, 8. The Industrial Arts, 

4. Ores and Minerals, 9. Alimentary Products, 

5. Raw and Manufac- 10. Education and Instruction, 

lured Products, 11. Works of Art. 

Under these heads everything wrought by man 
or produced by nature can be classed. 

The World's Exposition, in its intent, scope and 
provision, covers every object on earth having any 
relation to man's use or interest. 

The management, under the authority granted, 
provided for a thoroughly comprehensive exposi- 
tion. To encourage exhibits in the various de- 
partments, when feasible and appropriate, the most 
liberal premiums in cash and medals are offered. 
In the Horticultural Department premiums to the 
amount of $32,000 are offered ; in the Department 
of Agriculture and Live Stock, premiums to the 
amount of ;^8o,ooo are offered. For many special 



THE EXPOSITION. 143 

exhibits liberal cash premiums will be offered. 
For general exhibits entered for competition, sub- 
mitted to international juries, gold, silver and 
bronze medals, diplomas, certificates of merit and 
"special mention" will be awarded. 

LOCATION OF GROUNDS. 

The City Park, lying between the left bank of 
the Mississippi River and St. Charles avenue, 
about four miles from the business centre of the 
city, was tendered by the city council for the uses 
of the Exposition. It is a high, dry and beauti- 
ful stretch of ground, having numerous groves of 
magnificent live oaks and unusual advantages of 
easy access by water and by land. Its river front- 
age of over half a mile affords ready landing for 
scores of steamers, while five street and two steam 
car lines reach it from the centre of the city. St. 
Charles avenue, the great boulevard of the city, 
bounds it on the north. The Exposition grounds 
front east, towards the city proper. 

THE MAIN BUILDING. 

The main building is the largest ever erected. 
It is 1,378 feet long by 905 feet wide, without 
courts, and has a continuous roof composed 
largely of glass so arranged as to afford an abund- 
ance of light without subjecting the interior to the 



144 THE EXPOSITION. 

direct rays of the sun. Within, the view is unob 
structed. From one side or corner of the build- 
ing to its opposite, the interior showing all the 
phases of industrial activity is seen. There are 
no partitions, and the lofty pillars, wide ^.apart^ 
supporting the roof structure, present no impedi- 
ment to one's vision, but only serve to assist the 
eye in measuring the vast expanse. The interior 
is surrounded by wide and spacious galleries, 
twenty-three feet high, which are reached by 
twenty elevators having the most approved safety 
appliances, and by convenient stairways. 

The machinery department occupies a space of 
1,378 feet long by 300 feet wide, within the main 
building, and has an extension added in iron 350 
feet long and 150 feet wide for heavy machinery, 
described under the heading of Factories and 
Mills. From the galleries overlooking, more than 
two miles of shafting can be seen driving every 
known character of machinery. 

Music Hall, with a seating capacity, in commo- 
dious chairs, for 11,000 people, a platform capac- 
ity for 600 musicians and a mammoth organ built 
to order for the Exposition occupies the centre of 
the interior. 

The main building will contain general exhibits. 
It is situated about in the centre of the grounds. 



THE EXPOSITION. 1 45 

UNITED STATES AND STATE EXHIBITS. 

This building is 885 feet long by 565 feet wide. 
It is one of the largest exposition buildings ever 
erected. At the time of the adoption of the plans, 
it was supposed that the Main Building, having 
the largest capacity of any building heretofore 
erected, in conjunction with the Horticultural Hall 
and such minor outside buildings as were neces- 
sary, would afford ample space and accommoda- 
tion for all exhibits ; but the interest in the World's 
Exposition had become so wide-spread and the 
inquiries and applications for space became so nu- 
merous, that the necessity for additional accom- 
modation became imperative, and the management 
determined upon the erection of this magnificent 
structure specially for the United States and State 
Exhibits. The government exhibition will be 
complete — of itself, almost a mammoth exposition. 
Each department will have its distinctive exhibit. 
The Department of State showing samples of cot- 
ton, wool and cosmos fibres, and of the fabrics 
made from them from all parts of the world. This 
exhibit will be arranged in continental groups 
representing the geographical divisions of the 
world's commerce, etc. The Postoffice Depart- 
ment will exhibit all the improvements in mail fa- 
cilities, and estabhsh a branch office in the build- 



146 THE EXPOSITION. 

ing for the accommodation of visitors and to show 
the practical workings of the Postal System. The 
Treasury Department will exhibit coast survey, 
light housing, life-saving service, customs, internal 
revenue, engraving, printing, etc. The War De- 
partment will show arms, ordnance, engineering, 
medical, surgical and hospital services, progress in 
same, etc. The Navy Department will show na- 
val arms, ordnance, projectiles, torpedoes, dyna- 
mo electro-machines for firing, models of war ves- 
sels — ancient and modern, etc. The Interior De- 
partment — everything pertaining to the inventions 
and im.provements in American industries and to 
the history, customs and habits of the aboriginal 
races, etc. The United States Fishery Commis- 
sions, the Department of Justice, Bureau of Agri- 
culture, the Bureau of Education, and especially 
the Smithsonian Institute, will be exhaustively rep- 
resented. The Government exhibit will vastly ex- 
ceed that made at Philadelphia. In addition to 
the Government exhibits, the collective State ex- 
hibits and the general educational display will be 
located in this building. This structure presents 
a very attractive appearance. 

THE HORTICULTURAL HALL. 

The Horticultural Hall is 600 feet in length and 
194 feet wide through its centre. It is the largest 



THE EXPOSITION. 147 

conservatory in the world. It is substantially 
built as a durable structure, becoming, by arrange- 
ment with the city, a permanent feature of the 
Park. It is located on high ground in the midst 
of live-oak groves. Surmounting the centre is a 
magnificent tower, 90 feet high, roofed with glass. 
Beneath this tower, in constant play, is a grand 
fountain. 20,000 plates of fruit, double the 
amount ever before displayed at any exposition, 
will be shown on tables extending through the 
hall. Around the hall will be arranged an infinite 
variety of rare tropical and semi-tropical plants, 
flowers and shrubbery. There is a tropical hot- 
house, 250 feet long by 25 feet wide, in which the 
most delicate flowers from the far South will be 
nurtured and made to bloom in their most brilliant 
perfection. Tropical fruits in the various stages 
of growth will be exhibited. Fruits of every sec- 
tion and the productions of all seasons will, by 
arrangements for stated supplies and thorough 
processes of cold storage, be available for exhibit. 

THE ART GALLERY. 

The Art Gallery is 250 feet long by 100 feet 
wide. It is a structure built of iron. The build- 
ing is an elegant and artistic structure, so arranged 
for mounting, accessibility and light as to present 
the best effects, and with ample accommodation 



148 THE EXPOSITION. 

for as large a collection as was ever exhibited on 
this hemisphere. It is fireproof — even the par- 
titions being of iron. 

FACTORY AND MILL, 

This is a large iron building 350 feet long by 
120 feet wide. In it will be exhibited cotton in 
all stages of manipulation from the boll to the bale. 
The newly invented "Cotton Pickers, Openers and 
Lappers," as well as the various and complex 
machinery for ginning, cleaning, bailing and com- 
pressing, will be in constant operation. The sup- 
ply of field cotton for this purpose will be abun- 
dant. 

In addition to cotton machinery this extension 
of Machinery Hall will contain the various kinds 
of machinery used in the rolling of cane and 
manufacture of sugar, and the harvesting and mill- 
ing of rice. 

Various kinds of factory and mill machinery for 
wood working, brick and tile making, etc., will be 
located in this structure. Adjacent to this build- 
ing there will be a line of sawmills, extending to- 
ward the river showing forty sawmills in motion. 

THE MEXICAN HEADQUARTERS. 

This is a structure of striking beauty, erected 
by the Mexican Government and fashioned after 



THE EXPOSITION. I49 

the Style of a Mexican senor's residence. It is a 
quadrangle, with a frontage of 190 feet and a 
depth of 300 feet. Round its open interior or 
courtyard, runs a terraced gallery, supporting a 
collection of the rarest plants and flowers and the 
most gorgeous birds of that famous land, seeming 
like a hanging garden. Surmounted at each cor- 
ner and in the centre of its front with light and 
graceful turrets, and painted in Oriental combina- 
tions of gold and green, with mediums of maroon 
and touches here and there of intense red, its 
Moresque style will attract and please the Vision 
and give a fair idea of the taste and characteristics 
of the Mexican people, and fairly prepare the* vis- 
itors for their wonderful exhibit. While intended 
simply as the headquarters of the Mexican con- 
tingent, it will, however, contain in two apart- 
ments, sixty-four by thirty-two feet, most attract- 
ive bazars of Mexican art-work and bric-a-brac, 
feathers, wax, pottery, and all the minute artistic 
creations for which that country is so justly fam- 
ous. Thus, in one building, the social and official 
forms, the military organizations, the architectural 
methods, and the light and delicate arts of our 
next-door neighbors will be most exquisitely and 
elaborately illustrated. 



150 THE EXPOSITION. 

SPECIAL FEATURES. 

The special features of the World's Exposition 
are so numerous and so striking that it virtually 
necessitates classing them as general. What are 
termed as ''tropical displays" will be special to 
this Exposition and so extensive as almost to be a 
leading feature. In fruits, flowers, plants and 
forestry, in cultivated products, in export woods, 
in minerological samples, in native manufactured 
products, in rich archaeological stores, the exhibits 
of Mexico, the countries of Central and South 
America and the West Indies will be complete 
and comprehensive, unitedly composing an ex- 
traordinary exposition. The general government 
exhibits will in magnitude and variety far exceed 
the magnificent display made at the Philadelphia 
Centennial. The cotton exhibit, from the weed to 
the fabric, through numerous and wondrous pro- 
cesses, will be an unusual attraction. The same 
can be said of the sugar-cane and the rice plant, 
the processes of cultivation, harvesting and man- 
ufacturing, all being practically demonstrated. 
The live-stock display will be a very interesting 
feature. It includes not only cattle, horses, 
mules, sheep, hogs, poultry and pet stock, but 
that useful animal — the dog. A very liberal pre- 
mium list offered in this department will insure a 



THE EXPOSITION. I5I 

large representation. The electrical display will 
be complete, demonstrating the wonderful prog- 
ress in this line in all descriptions of invention 
and use. The machinery exhibit will be enor- 
mous, it will present in detail the culmination of 
this, the greatest of all inventive, eras. The de- 
velopments of the past few years will afford ma- 
terial that will be a source of continual wonder- 
ment to the visitor. The exposition of woman's 
work is a feature exciting earnest consideration. 
The exhibit will display her work in all the phases 
of her taste, skill and industry : an attempt at 
enumeration would be futile. In all that her hand 
may do or her taste may influence, evidences will 
be abundantly present. Another and an equally 
interesting feature is the department devoted to 
an exposition of the work and progress of the 
colored race. The identification of the colored 
race with the material progress and the develop- 
ment of the great natural resources of the South, 
and the influence of so large a portion of her pop- 
ulation upon her prosperity, renders this demon- 
stration of their educational and industrial prog- 
ress and advancement eminently appropriate. 
The Board of Management, appreciating the fit- 
ness and propriety of such a feature, and to afford 
every incentive for the fullest and most thorough 
exposition, has assigned the sum of ;^50,ooo to 



152 THE EXPOSITION. 

assist those engaged in the work of preparation. 
The colored people have entered into the work 
with great enthusiasm and the promises are bright 
-for a most interesting and magnificent display. 

OUTSIDE FEATURES. 

Outside of the Exposition proper, the interest 
in it and its magnitude will attract many import- 
ant enterprises and features. An international 
drill, in which, besides the volunteer soldiery, 
companies of the regular army will be invited to 
participate, and the companies of the Mexican 
army and of the Spanish army in Cuba, together 
with the soldiery of any other nation present, will 
be invited to take part, and which will be a feature 
of international interest. During the station of 
the United States fleet in the river bordering the 
Exposition grounds (already promised by the Sec- 
retary of the Navy), a sham naval and land battle 
is contemplated. 

A large number of organizations of national 
reputation and extent have already arranged for 
their annual convocations at New Orleans during 
the period of the Exposition. 

The carnival pageants, occurring about the 
middle of the Exposition period, will be the most 
elaborate and brilliant of this world-wide famed 
festival. 



THE EXPOSITION. 153 

Three regular first-class theatres, two grand 
opera houses and one grand French and Italian 
opera house, will be open during the Exposition. 

Grand concerts, vocal and instrumental, will be 
given regularly in Music Hall in the main build- 
ing. The largest organ ever built for an Exposi- 
tion is being built expressly for the World's Ex- 
position. 

LOCAL EXCURSIONS. 

The opportunities for these pleasurable and in- 
structive pastimes are almost innumerable in the 
Crescent City. By water, fresh or salt, to nearly 
every point of the compass. Elegant steamboats 
ply from New Orleans, covering the Mississipi, to 
its famed delta and its numerous lower tributaries, 
penetrating the enchanting waters of interminable 
bayous, bordered with rich canefields and shaded 
with the live oak. Steamers sail regularly between 
the city shores of Lake Ponchartrain and its north 
shores and the sound watering places, and down 
the Mississippi into the Gulf to the shores and 
Keys of Florida, to the coast places of Texas, 
Mexico, Central America, the Carribean Isles and 
the West Indies. By rail, the ''Land of Flow- 
ers" is reached in a few hours, and every promi- 
nent southern point, even to the City of Mexico, 
becomes conveniently accessible. 



154 THE EXPOSITION. 

ACCOMMODATION. 

A matter of the utmost importance to the visit- 
or is the question of accommodation ; with this, 
as to character, comfort or safety, in doubt, large 
numbers would be debarred from attendance. 
The Board of Management early realized the im- 
portance of the subject and took prompt and ef- 
fective steps in the matter. A department of ac- 
commodation and information has been organized. 
The city is being thoroughly canvassed, divided 
into districts and sub-districts, each having con- 
nection with the central office by telephone, tele- 
graph or messenger service. All of the accom- 
modation of the city is being listed and classified, 
its character and rate of charges determined, so 
that no imposition or extortion can prevail, and 
the promptest information and assistance will be 
at all times available to the visitor. No charge 
for this service will be made either against citizen 
or visitor. 

In a city with 250,000 inhabitants, in a climate 
like that of the Crescent City, with houses of more 
than ample capacity, it will not be impossible to 
secure comfortable and acceptable accommodation 
for fifty thousand extra people. Besides the ac- 
commodation assured within the city precincts, 
the Mississippi Sound coast for a distance of more 
than forty miles is lined with a succession of fine 



THE EXPOSITION. 155 

hotels and comfortable boarding houses for sum- 
mer and winter resort, all within an hour and a half 
to two hours ride of the city. Accommodation 
for thousands of people can be obtained. Border- 
ing the Gulf shore, in the midst of the pine, live 
oak, the orange and the magnolia, with numerous 
mineral springs, superb facilities for fishing, sail- 
ing and hunting, with the mild yet bracing salt air 
of the sea, with constant communication with the 
city by luxuriously furnished and rapid trains, 
tarrjang at these resorts will be found wonderfully 
attracting and compensating. In addition to the 
accommodations now afforded numerous hotel 
companies are preparing to establish capacious 
buildings near the grounds. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

The temperature of New Orleans from the ist 
of December to the last of May averages about 
sixty-five degrees, Fahr. The thermometer very 
seldom falls below the freezing point and then but 
for a day or two. The weather during this period 
is almost invariably clear, sunshiny and pleasant, 
while in general healthfulness it will compare with 
any section of the Union. 

During this period foliage, fields and the forests 
retain their vernal hue, many kinds of fresh vege- 
tables are in season, various kinds of fruit ripen, 



156 THE EXPOSITION. 

while the orange and nearly all of the tropical 
fruits are in their prime. 

During this same period the wharves of the city- 
are lined with the sail and steam craft of all na- 
tions, and hardly a day passes without the depart- 
ure or arrival of some vessel to or from nearly all 
parts of the habitable globe. 

Six trunk lines of railway centre at New Or- 
leans and furnish rapid and luxurious transit to all 
points of the compass except gulfward. By water 
regular lines of palatial steamers ply between St. 
Louis and Cincinnati and the Crescent City, and 
cover all navigable tributaries of the great river. 

Gates open at 9 a. m. Admission, 50 cents ; 
children in arms half price, all others full rates. 
No money received at the gates except United 
States silver half dollars. 



GUIDE. 



157 



GUIDE. 



HOTELS, 

St. Charles Hotel. . . 

Hotel Royal 

Hotel Vonderbanck. 

City Hotel 

Cassidy's Hotel 

Southern Hotel 

Hotel Denechaud. . . 

Lally's Hotel 

Waver) y House 

Hotel Chalmette 

Stock Dealers' Hotel 
West End Hotel.... 
Carondelet House.. 
Edwards House.... 

Herron House 

Oviatt House 

Perry House 

Arlington Hotel. . . . 
Allen House .... 

BOARDING HOUSES. 



LOCATION. 

St. Charles and Common Sts. 

Royal and St. Louis Sts 

40 Magazine St 

Camp, Cor. Common St 

40 Carondelet St 

Carondelet and Julia Sts 

56 to 64 Carondelet St 

Cor. St. Charles & Poydras Sts. 
Foydras, N.W. Cor. Camp St. 

98 St. Charles St 

Echo St 

West End 

88 Carondelet St 

135 Camp St 

225 Canal St 

II Dauphine St 

13 St. Charles St. 

116 Camp St 

288 Canal St 

PROPRIETORS— LOCATION. 



Private House Mrs. M.A.Clark, 7 Carondelet. 

Mrs. C. Holland, 155 Clio 

Jno. A. Braun, iii St. Charles 

J . C. Hood, 95 St. Charles. . . . 

Wm. Progel, 106 St. Charles. 

Mrs. M. A. Russell, 116 Camp 

Mrs. M. Lee, 130 Camp 

Mrs. D. Herricic, 198 Camp. . 

Mrs. A. E. Heard, 196 Camp. 

. . ... Mrs. L. Arnold, 215 Poydras. 

Mrs. M. Arnold, 193 Canal.. 

Mrs. M. Becker, 233 Gravier.. 

Mrs. B. Behan, 2 South 

Mrs. A. Bell, 51 Girod 

Mrs. A. Bond, 211 Carondelet 

Mrs.J . W. Baum, 1 1 iSt. Charles 

Mrs. J. Burst, 175 Magazine. . 

Mrs. A. Burns, 164 Julia . . . - 



PER DAY» 
$4.00 
4.00 
1. 00 to 3.00 

2.50 

3.00 
2.50 to 3.00 
1. 00 to 3.00 

1.50 
1.50 

T.OOtO 2.00 



2.50 to 3.00 

2.00 
1.50 
2.00 

1. 00 to 2.00 

2.00 
2.50 to 3.00 

PER DAY. 

$1.50 to $2.00 

2.00 

1. 00 to 2.50 

2.00 
2.00 

2.00 to 4.00 
1. 00 to 3.00 
2.50 to 3.00 

2.00 

1.50 

2.00 

2.50 * » 

3.00 

2.00 

X.50 

2.00 

2.00 

2.00 to 2.50 



158 



GUIDE. 



Private House Mrs. I. Cavaros, i6i Camp.. 2.50 

Mrs. M. A. Carey, 209 Camp. 3.CX) 

Mrs. F. S. Chesley, 5 North.. 2.00 

Mrs. G. Callier, 302 Canal... 1.50 

" Mrs. B. Connell, 249 Baronne. 1.50 

Mrs.A.C. Crane, 222 St. Joseph i. 00 to 1.50 

" Mrs. R.Delerno, 227 Magazine. 1.50 

" Mrs. E. Elam, 29 N. Rampart. 2.50 

" Mrs. Emerson, 194 St. Charles. 2.00 

" Mrs. J. Fabien, 138 St. Charles. 1.75 

" Mrs. M.Gernon,234St. Charles 7.50103.00 

" Mrs. Gilham, 139 St. Charles. 1.75 to 2.00 

" Mrs. E. M. Gilham, 211 Camp. 2.00 

" Mrs. M. Gogin, 106 Bombair.. 1.75 

" Mrs. Harrison, 138 Carondelet. 1.50 

" H. S. Kellogg, 67 Royal i. 00 to 2.00 

" A.C.Malborough,i29Carond't 2.00 

" M. McCormal, 161 Carondelet 1.75 

" H. McDaniel, 148 Julia 2.00 

" L. V. McFarland, 192 Julia. . 2.50 to 3.00 

" C. E. Minor, 173 Camp 2,00 

'• Kate Mawney, 190 Julia 1.50102.00 

" A. Maunn, 164 Carondelet.. . . 2.00 

" E. Penniston, 156 Julia 1.50 

" Mrs. Goldsmith, 154 Carondel't 1,50102.00 

" Mrs.Tora Rogers, 196 Baronne 2.00 

" Mrs. C. Russell, 21 Dauphine. 2.00 

" Mrs. V. Street, 5 South 3.00 

" Mrs. P.Schreiber, 225 Poydras. 1.50 

" Mrs. Torian, 135 St. Charles. 2.00 

" Mrs. L. Trapolin, 123 Royal. 2.00 

" Mrs. C. Tuttle, 181 Camp.... 1.50 

" Mrs. Kate Vetter, 90 Baronne. 1.50 

" Mrs. A. Voisen, 135 Chartres. i.oo to 2.00 

" Mrs. E.Walter, 256 Baronne. 2.00 

" Mrs. Welsh, 165 St. Charles. . 3.00 

" H. Gernon, 135 St. Charles.. 2.00 

" Mrs.D.Edwards,223 St. Joseph 1.50 

" Mrs. M. Wall, 149 St. Joseph. 2.00 

" Mrs. A. Can, 223 Camp 2.00 

" Mrs.Redmond, 303 St. Charles 2.00 

" Mrs. C. Williams. 310 Canal. 1.75 

Additional lists of boarding houses can be obtained at the Bureau of 

Information, 164 Gravier Street, opposite St. Charles Hotel. 

Many of the steamers at the levee also offer excellent accommoda- 
tions at about $2.00 a day for board and room. 



GUIDE. 159 



RESTAURANTS. LOCATION. 

Antoine's 65 St. Louis 

Bergamini & Co 21 Royal 

Bero Victor 31 Bourbon 

Bezandin Lxjuis 113 Custom House. . 

Borges' ' 109 Custom House. . 

Boudousquie Henry 129 Gravier 

Cassidy's 40 Carondelet 

Cosmopolitan 13 & 15 Royal 

Denechaud E. N 8 Carondelet 

Detzel Jacob 135 Poydras 

Egerton Mrs. E 31 Natchez 

Excelsior 595 Magazine 

Fabacher Joseph 23 Royal 

Felicini Alexander 218 Magazine 

Forget Philip 107 Custom House. . 

Four Scasotis 1 1 1 Chartres 

Frid's 106 St. Charles 

John's 181 Canal 

King Thomas 138 Dumain 

Kissinger Bros 57 Gravier 

Lebrun Lucien 13 St. Philip 

Leon's 23 St. Charles 

Licalzi Antonio 6 N. Rampart 

Leynoz Pablo 209 Royal 

Lukinonch Morco 192 Camp 

Marchal Jules Mrs 19 Union 

Meyer Bernard 200 Poydras 

Moreau's 128 Canal , 

Paichous Hypolite 93 St. Charles 

Phoenix House 96 St. Charles 

Pizzini's 182 Canal 

Raphael Joseph 174 Custom House. 

Schaefer Egbert 18 Exchange- Place . 

Stecher Joseph . . . : 174 Gravier 

Sugasti Everiste 9 St. Phiiip 

Teen Elizabeth 85 Dauphine 

Troyani S 52 St. Louis 

Toumilla Jean 38 N. Franklm 

Valerey N 108 Custom House. 

Victor's 31 Bourbon 

Vonderbanck 128 Common 

Voorhies P. E 18 Royal 

Walker A 63 Exchange Place. 

West End Restaurant 8 Carondelet 

Ziegler J 10 Royal 



l60 GUIDE. 

EXCHANGES. 

Cotton Exchange — Carondelet, corner Gravier 
Street; Charles E. Black, President; Henry G. 
Hester, Secretary. 

Produce Exchange — 44 Magazine Street; E. K. 
Converse, President; W. M. Smallweed, Secretary. 

Stock Exchange — 29 Carondelet Street. • 

Mexican Exchange — 124 Common Street. 

Chamber of Commerce — Corner Gravier and 
Carondelet streets. 

Sugar Exchange — Corner Front and Bienville 
streets. 

Mechanic's and Lumberman's Exchange — 187 
Gravier Street. 

EXPRESS COMPANIES. 

Wells, Fargo & Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 

Texas Express Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 

Southern Express Co — 18 and 20 Union Street. 

Pacific Express Co — 20 Camp Street. 

Baldwin's European and Havana Express Co — 
163 Gravier Street. 

New Orleans Express Co — 175 Common Street. 

Davies & Co.'s Express — 48 Carondelet Street. 

Merchant's & Citizen's Delivery Co — 88 Canal 
Street. 



GUIDE. l6l 

TELEGRAPH. 

Western Union — 5 1 St. Charles Street 
Baltimore & Ohio — (on the way). 
American District — 47 Camp Street. 
Towboat Telegraph — 159 Common Street. 
Great Southern Telephone & Telegraph Co — 
Corner Poydras and Carondelet Streets. 

POSTOFFICE. 

New Orleans Postoffice — Custom House Build- 
ing, Canal Street ; W. B. Merchant, Postmaster ; 
General Delivery window open from 8 a. m. to 5 
p. M. Carriers make four deliveries and collections 
a day in the central portion of the city. Money 
Order and Register offices open from 9 a. m. to 
4 p. M. The General Delivery, Carriers' and 
Stamp windows open from 9 a, m. to 12 m. on 
Sundays. 

MARKETS. 

French Market — North Peters and Decatur 
Streets. 

Magazine Market — Magazine Street. 

Dryades Market — Dryades Street. 

Poydras Market — Poydras Street. 

Ninth Street Market — Ninth and Magazine 
Streets. 



1 62 GUIDE. 

Claiborne Market — Claiborne Street. 
CarroUton Market — Carrollton Street. 
St. Mary's Market — Annunciation Street. 
Delamore Market — Elysian Fields and Claiborne 
streets. 

Jefferson City Market — Magazine Street. 
Pilie Market — Poydras Street. 
Second Street Market — Second Street. 
Soraparu Market — Soraparu Street. ^ 

St. Bernard Market — St. Bernard Avenue. 
Treme Market — Orleans Street. 
Washington Market — Chartres Street. 

BANKS. 

Citizen's Bank of Louisiana — Capital $1,050,- 
000 ; 134 and 136 Gravier Street. 

Germania National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
$450,000; 102 Canal Street. 

Hibernia National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
$570,000 ; 17 Camp Street. 

Louisiana National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
^1,200,000; 120 and 122 Common Street. 

State National Bank — Capital and Surplus $775,- 
000 ; 33 and 35 Camp Street. 

Metropolitan Bank — Capital $250,000; 91 Canal 
Street. 

Union National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
$600,000 ; corner Gravier and Carondelet Street. 



GUfDE. 163 

Whitney National Bank — Capital ^400,000 ; 
137 Gravier Street. 

The People's National Bank — Capital ;^300,ooo ; 
corner Decatur and Custom-house Street. 

New Orleans National Bank — Capital and Sur- 
plus ;^450,ooo; 54 Camp Street. 

New Orleans Canal Banking Co. — Capital and 
Surplus $1,200,000; corner Camp and Gravier 
Street. 

Mutual National Bank — Capital and Surplus 
;^375,ooo; 106 Canal Street. 

Germania Savings Bank — Capital ^100,000; 
17 Camp Street. 

GRAND ARMY OF THE REPUBLIC. 

Joseph A. Mower Post — Corner Camp and 
Natchez streets. 

Timothy O. Howe Post — 193 Gravier Street. 

There are 50 Masonic Lodges, 24 Odd Fel- 
lows Lodges, 12 Knights of Pythias Lodges, and 
more societies, associations and clubs than any 
other city in the Union of like population. 

ROLLER RINKS. 

Crescent City Roller Skating Rink — corner 
Washington and Prytania streets. 

Exposition Skating Rink — Washington Artil- 
lerv Hall. Admission twenty-five cents. 



1 64 GUIDE. 

CHURCHES. 

ROMAN CATHOLIC. 

Diocese of New Orleans — Most Rev. F. X. 
Leray, archbishop. The archbishop's residence is 
280 Chartres Street. 

Annunciation Church — Mandeville, corner Ma- 
rias Street. Rev. A. Durier, pastor. 

Chapel of the Ursuline Convent — Third Dis- 
trict. 

Church of The Holy Name of Mary — Veret, 
between Alix and Eliza streets ; Fifth District. 

Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus — Canal, 
between Lopez and Rendon streets. Rev. A. 
Marine, pastor. 

Holy Trinity Church (German) — St. Ferdinand, 
between Royal and Dauphine. Rev. Peter L. 
Thevis, pastor. 

Jesuit's College and Church of the Immaculate 
Conception — Baronne, between Canal and Com- 
mon streets. 

Mater Dolorosa Church — Cambronne, corner of 
Burthe Street. Rev. A. Bichlmayer, pastor. 

Mt. Carmel Chapel— 53 Piety Street. 

Notre Dame de bon Secours — Jackson, between 
Laurel and Constance streets. 

St. Alphonsus — Constance, between St. Andrew 
and Josephine streets. Rev. F. Girardey, pastor. 



GUIDE. 165 

Our Lady of the Sacred Heart — North Clai- 
borne, corner Annette Street. Rev. Celestin 
Frain, pastor. 

St. Ann's Church, St. Philip, between Roman 
and Prieur streets. Rev. H. Tumoine, pastor. 

St. Anthony's (Italian) — N. Rampart, corner of 
Conti Street. Rev. J. A. Manoritta, pastor. 

St. Augustin's Church — Hospital, corner St. 
Claude Street. Rev. Joseph Subileau, pastor. 

St. Boniface Church (German) — N. Galvez, cor- 
ner Laharpe Street. Rev. Joseph Koegerl, pastor. 

St. Francis De Sales — Second, corner St. David 
Street. Rev. Nicholas Simon, pastor. 

St. Henry's Church (German) — Berlin, between 
Constance and Magazine streets. Rev. John Bog- 
aerts, pastor. 

St. John the Baptist Church — Dryades, between 
Clio and Calliope streets. Rev. James D. Foote, 
pastor. 

St. Joseph's Church — Common, between Howard 
and Villere streets. Rev. Richard J. Fitzgerald, 
pastor. 

St. Louis Cathedral — Chartres, between St. Ann 
and St. Peter streets. Most Rev. F. X. Leray, 
archbishop. 

St. Mary's Assumption (German) — Josephine, 
between Constance and Laurel streets. Rev. M. 
Seimgruber, pastor. 



l66 GUIDE. 

St. Joseph's Church — Gretna. Rev. Eugene 
Frairing, pastor. 

St. Mary's Church (Archbishop's residence) — 
Chartres, between Ursuline and Hospital streets. 
Rev. G. Raymond, D. D., pastor; Rev. Blane- 
garin, assistant. 

St. Mary's Church — Cambronne, between Sec- 
ond and Burthe streets. Rev. R. Valle, pastor. 

St. Maurice's Church — Hancock, corner Royal 
Street. Rev. J. Dumas, pastor. 

St. Michael's Church — Southeast side of Chip- 
pewa, between Orange and Race streets. Rev. 
Thomas Heslin, pastor. 

St. Patrick's Church — Camp, between Girod and 
Julia streets. Rev. P. F. Allen, pastor. 

St. Peter and St. Paul's Church — Burgundy, 
between Marigny and Mandeville streets. Rev. 
J. Moynihan, pastor. 

St. Rose de Lima Church — Bayou Road, be- 
tween Dolhonde and Broad streets. Rev. F. Mit- 
tlebron, pastor. 

St. Stephen's Church — Napoleon Avenue, cor- 
ner Camp street. Rev. Verrina, pastor. 

St. Stephen's Church (old) — Camp, corner Ber- 
lin Street. Rev. A. Verrina, pastor. 

St. Theresa's Church — Erato, corner Camp 
Street. Rev. P. M. L. Massardier, pastor; Rev. 
Thomas Golden, assistant. 



GUIDE. » 167 

St. Vincent de Paul — Dauphine, between Mon- 
tegut and Clouet streets. Rev. A. F. X. Cha- 
pins, pastor. 

Trinity Church — Cambronne, near Second 
Street. 

PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL. 

Diocese of Louisiana — Office, Trinity Church. 
Rev. John N. Galleher, bishop. 

Annunciation Church — Race, corner Camp 
Street. Rev. John Percival, D. D., rector. 

Calvary Church — Prytania, corner Conery 
Street. Rev. W. R. Douglas, rector. 

Christ Church — Canal, corner Dauphine Street-. 
Alexander J. Drysdale, D. D., rector. 

Mt. Calvary Church (colored) — St. Andrews, 
southwest corner of Willow. 

Mt. Olivet Church — Peter, corner Olivier Street. 
Rev. C. S. Hedges, rector. 

St. Anna's Church — 197 Esplanade Street. 
Rev. J. F. Girault, rector. 

St. George's Church — St. Charles Avenue, cor- 
ner Cadiz Street. Rev. Samuel Wiggins, rector. 

St. John's Church — Third, corner Annunciation 
Street. Rev. S. Wiggins, rector. 

St. Paul's Church — Camp, corner Gaiennie 
Street. Rev. H. H. Waters, rector. 

St. Philip's Church — Prytania, southwest cor- 



l68 GUIDE. 

ner Calliope Street. Rev. C. H. Thompson, D. 
D., rector. 

Trinity Chapel — South Rampart, corner Enterpe 
Street. Rev. Arthur W. Chapman, in charge. 

Trinity Church — Jackson, corner Coliseum 
Street. Rev. R. A. Holland, D. D., rector. 

BAPTIST. 

Amiazion Church — Deslonde, between Bur- 
gundy and Rampart streets. Rev. Charles Will- 
iams, pastor. 

Austerlitz Church — Austerlitz, between Maga- 
zine and Constance. Rev. G. W. Walker, pastor. 

Coliseum Place Church — Camp, corner Terpsi- 
chore Street. Rev. S. Landrum, pastor. 

Fifth Equal Rights Church (colored) — 164 Val- 
lette Street. Rev. Charles Mathews, pastor. 

Fifth African Church — Howard, between Jack- 
son and Philip streets. Rev. Henry White, pas- 
tor. 

First African Church — Gretna. Rev. Alexander 
Armstrong, pastor. 

First Church — Magazine, corner Second Street. 
Rev. M. C. Cole, pastor. 

First Free Mission Church — Broadway, between 
Market and Magazine streets. Rev. Burnett 
Brown, pastor. 

First Free Mission Church — Adams, between 



GUIDE. 169 

Burth and Third streets. Rev. Guy Burke, pas- 
tor. 

First Free Mission Church (colored) — 371 Com- 
mon Street. Rev. A. S. Jackson, pastor. 

Good Hope Second Baptist Church (old) — 63 
Jackson Street. Rev. John Fleming, pastor. 

Liberty Church — Marias, between Clouet and 
Feliciana streets. 

Little Zion Church — 269 Lafayette street. 

Harvey's Canal African Church — Harvey's Ca- 
nal, Fifth District. Elder Joseph Ross, pastor. 

Mt. Moriah Church — Walnut, between Wall and 
Esther streets. Rev. Henry Williams, pastor. 

Mt. Sinai Baptist Church — Vallette, near the 
corner of Eliza Street, Fifth District. Rev. 
James Creagh, pastor. 

Mt. Zion Church (colored) — Vallette, between 
Alex and Evelina streets. Fifth District. Rev. N. 
Ruffin, pastor. 

Nazareth Church (colored) — ^Josephine, between 
Annette and St. Anthony streets. Rev. Thomas 
Jones, pastor. 

New Light Church — Feliciana, between Robert- 
son and Villere streets. Rev. William Patterson, 
pastor. 

New Hope Church — Gretna. Rev. Putney 
Ward, pastor. 

Pilgrim Church — Newton, between Monroe and 



I/O GUIDE. 

Franklin ^streets, Fifth District. 'Rev.^Richard 
Frazer, pastor. 

Second African Baptist Churchr-:393 Melpo- 
mene Street. Rev. Samuel Walker,- pastor. 

Second African Church — Gretna .Rev. Ches- 
ley Henderson, pastor. 

Second Church (colored) — Laurel, between 
Berlin and Milan streets. Rev. Henry Caldwell, 
pastor. 

Second Free Mission Church — Burdette, be- 
tween Fourth and Plum streets Rev. H. Davis, 
pastor. 

Second Free Will Church — Urquhart, between 
Marigny and Mandeville streets. Rev. J. B. 
Meyers, pastor. 

Seventh Church (colored) — Washington, be- 
tween N. Robinson and Claiborne. 

Shiloh Church (colored) — Perdido, between S. 
Rocheblave and S. Dolhonde streets. Rev. H. C. 
Green, pastor. 

Sixth Church — Rousseau, between Felicity and 
St. Mary's streets. Rev. John Marks, pastor. 

St. John's Church (colored) — First, between 
Howard and Freret streets. Rev. Robert Jessop, 
pastor. 

St. John's Church (colored) — St. Louis, between 
N. Tonti and N. Rocheblave streets. 

St. Luke's Church — Cypress, between Prieur 



GUIDE. 171 

and Johnson streets. Rev. Louis Taylor, pastor. 

St. Mark's Fourth African Church — Magnolia, 
between Common and Gravier streets. Rev. R. 
H. Steptoe, pastor. 

St. Peter's Church^New Orleans, between 
Roman and Derbigny streets, Rev.N.Geddridge, 
pastor. 

St Peter's Church (colored) — Cadiz, corner Col- 
iseum Street. Rev. H. B. Parks, pastor. 

Third African Church — 310N. Roman, between 
Laharpe and Columbus streets. Rev. George W. 
Merritt, pastor. 

Union Church (colored) — 427 St. Peter Street. 
Rev W H. Bolding, pastor. 

Union Church (colored) — 305 Orleans Street. 
Rev. John Holmes, Pastor. 

Zion Traveler Church (colored) — Water, be- 
tween Walnut and Chestnut streets. Sixth District. 
Rev. Thomas Evans, pastor 

Zion Traveler Church Branch (colored) — Laurel, 
between Amelia and Perriston streets. 

METHODIST EPISCOPAL. 

Ames Church — St. Charles, corner Calliope 
Street. Rev. J. G. Vaugn, pastor. 

Clinton Street Church (colored) — Clinton, cor- 
ner Pearl Street, Seventh District. Rev Prince 
King, pastor. 



172 GUIDE. 

First German Church — South Franklin, corner 
St. Andrew Street. Rev. D. Mathaei, pastor. 

First Street Church (colored) — Winan's Chapel 
— Dryades, near corner First Street. Rev. T. G., 
Montgomery, pastor. 

Jefferson Street German Church — Jefferson,, 
corner Plum Street, Seventh District. 

Laharpe Street Church (colored) — Laharpe,. 
between North Roman and North Prieur streets. 

Mt. Zion Church (colored) — :Jackson, near Lo- 
cust Street. Rev. J. F. Marshall, pastor. 

Mt. Zion Church (colored) — Desire, betweert 
Marias and Urquehart streets. 

Pleasant Plains Chapel (colored) — 290 Perdido- 
Street. Rev. James D. Hudson, pastor. 

Plum Street Church — Plum, between Leonidas 
and Monroe streets, Seventh District. Rev.Wm. 
Murel, pastor. 

New Methodist Church — Constance, southwest 
corner Octavia Street. Rev. M. Parker, pastor. 

Sixth Street Church — Sixth, between Annunci- 
ation and Laurel streets. Rev. Morris J. Dyer, 
pastor. 

Second German Church — Eighth Street, south- 
east corner Laurel. Rev. J. A. Traeger, pastor. 

Simpson Chapel (colored) — West Valence, be- 
tween Camp and Chestnut streets. Rev. Joseph 
Gould, pastor. 



GUIDE. 173 

St. James' African Church — North Roman, 
between Custom-house and Bienville streets. 
Rev. Henry B. Parks, pastor. 

Third German Church — North Rampart, between 
Ferdinand and Press streets. Rev.W. H. Traeger, 
pastor. 

Thompson Chapel (colored) — Rampart, corner 
Washington. Rev. R. L. Beal, pastor. 

Union Bethel Church (colored) — South Frank- 
lin, corner Thalia street. Rev. J. R. Grimes, 
pastor. 

Union Chapel (colored) — Bienville, between 
Villere and Marias streets. Rev. Stephen Priestly, 
pastor. 

Union Chapel — 181 Union Street, Third District. 
Rev. Jesse Cummings, pastor. 

Wesley Chapel (colored) — South Liberty, be- 
tween Perdido and Poydras streets. Rev. S. 
Davage, pastor. 

Zion African Church — Frenchman, corner of 
Josephine street. 

METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH, SOUTH. 

Algiers Church — Lavergne, corner Delaronde 
Street. Rev. James L. Wright, pastor. 

Dryades Street German Church — Dryades, be- 
tween Euterpe and Felicity. Rev. I. B. A. Ahrens, 
pastor. 



174 GUIDE. 

Carondelet Street Church — 147 Carondelet 
Street. Rev. Felix R. Hill, pastor. 

Craps Street Church — 575 Burgundy. Street. 
Rev. Wm. Leiser, pastor. 

Felicity Church — Felicity, southeast corner 
Chestnut Street. Rev. C. W. Carter, pastor- 
Little Bethel Church — Coliseum, between Va- 
lence and Bordeaux streets. 

Louisiana Avenue Church — Louisiana Avenue, 
corner Magazine Street. Rev, A. C. Coey, pastor. 

Moreau Street Church — Chartres late (Moreau) 
street, corner Lafayette Avenue. Rev. James J. 
Billingsley, pastor. 

Soraparu Church — Soraparu, between Chippewa 
and Annunciation streets. Rev. P. H. Henesch, 
pastor. 

St. Charles Street Church — St. Charles, corner 
General Taylor Street. Rev. Bernard Carradine, 
pastor. 

St. John's Chapel (colored) — Market, near Pow- 
derhouse Street, Fifth District. 

PRESBYTERIAN. 

Canal Street Church — Canal, corner Derbigny. 
Rev. A. N. Wyckoff, pastor. 

First German Presbyterian Church — First, near 
Laurel Street. Rev. L. Voss, pastor. 

First Presbyterian Church — Lafayette Square, 



GUIDE. 175 

corner Church and South streets. Rev. B. M. 
Palmer, pastor. 

First Presbyterian Church of Carrollton — Bur- 
dette, between Hampton and Second streets. Rev. 
A. J. Witherspoon, pastor. 

Franklin Street Memorial Church — South Frank- 
lin, N. W. corner Euterpe. Rev. J. Wm. Flinn, 
pastor. 

Lafayette Presbyterian Church — Magazine, be- 
tween Jackson and Philip streets. Rev. T. R. 
Markham, pastor. 

Napoleon Avenue Presbyterian Church — Napo- 
leon Avenue, corner Coliseum Street. Rev. R. Q. 
Mallard, pastor. 

Prytania Street Presbyterian Church — Prytania, 
corner Josephine Street. Rev. James H. Nalle, 
pastor. 

Seaman's Bethel and Reading Room — East St. 
Thomas, between Jackson and Philip streets. 
Rev. A. J. Witherspoon, chaplain. 

Seaman's Bethel — No. 9 Esplanade Street. 
Rev. L. H. Pease, chaplain. 

Second German Presbyterian Church — St. Ber- 
nard, corner North Claiborne Street. Rev. Otto 
F. Koelle, pastor. 

Second Mission Church — Laurel, corner of 
Pleasant Street. Rev. A. J. Witherspoon, pastor. 



1/6 GUIDE. 

Third Presbyterian Church — Washington Square. 
Rev. H. M. Smith, pastor. 

LUTHERAN. 

Evangelical Lutheran St. Paul's Church — 426 
North Claiborne Street. Rev. Niles J. Bakke, 
pastor. 

Emmanuel Evangelical Lutheran Church — St. 
Louis, between Johnson and Prieur streets. Rev. 
J. F. Doescher, pastor. 

First Evangelical Lutheran Church — Camp, 
near Soniat Street. Rev. Owen Reidy, pastor. 

Mt. Zion Evangelical Luthern Church — Frank- 
lin, southwest corner Thalia. Rev. G. N. Blake, 
pastor. 

St. John's Church — Custom-House, corner 
North Prieur Street. Rev. T. Steinake, pastor. 

St. Paul's Church — Port, corner Burgundy 
Street, Rev. Christian G. Moedinger, pastor. 

Trinity Church — Olivier, corner Eliza Street, 
Fifth District. Rev. George Franke, pastor. 

Zion Church — St. Charles, corner St. Andrew 
Street. Rev. P. Roesner, pastor. 

EVANGELICAL PROTESTANT. 

Bethlehem Church — 368 Felicity Street. Rev. 
Henry Kleinhagen, pastor. 

German Evangelical Church — Jackson, south- 



GUIDE. 177 

west corner Chippewa Street. Rev. L. P. Heintz, 
pastor. 

First Church — Milan, corner Camp Street. 
Rev. Julius C. Kraemer, pastor. 

German Protestant Church — Zimple, between 
Leonidas and Monroe streets, Seventh District. 
Rev. Louis Rague, pastor. 

German Protestant Church — Gretna. 

German Protestant Church — Clio, between St. 
Charles and Carondelet streets. Rev. August 
•Gehrke, pastor. 

Madison Street Church — Madison, between 
Eurthe and Third streets. Seventh District. Rev. 
P. Ziemer, pastor. 

German Evangelical Protestant Church — 36 
IMorth Derbigney Street, Rev. J. H. Perpeet, 
pastor. 

UNITARIAN. 

Church of the Messiah — St. Charles, corner of 
Julia Street. Rev. Charles A. Allen, pastor. 

GREEK. 

Greek Church of the Holy Trinity — North Dol- 
honde, between Barracks and Hospital streets. 
Rev. K. Michel, curate. 

CHRISTIAN. 

First Christian Church — Camp, corner Melpo- 
mene Street. Rev. W. L. Gibson, pastor. 



178 GUIDE. 

CONGREGATIONAL. 

Algiers Church (colored) — Vallette, near Eliza 
Street. 

Central Church (colored) — S. Liberty, corner 
Clasquet Street. Rev. Robert Alexander, pastor. 

Howard Church (colored) — Spain, between Ram- 
part and St. Claude Streets. Rev. H. A. Ruffin, 
pastor. 

Morris Brown Church (colored) — Marais, be- 
tween Bourbon and Union streets, Third District. 

Morris Brown Chapel, No. 2 (colored) — 471 
Villere Street, Third District. 

JEWISH. 

Chevre Redushe Mikveh Israel Synagogue — 165 
Dryades Street. Rev. Albert Silverstein, rabbi. 

Touro Synagogue — 218 Carondelet Street. Rev. 
Isaac H. Leucht, rabbi. 

Gates of Prayer — Jackson, between Chippewa 
and Annunciation streets. 

Temple o( Sinai — East Carondelet, between 
Delord and Calliope streets. Rev. J. K; Gutheim. 
rabbi. 

The Right Way — Carondelet, between Poydras 
and Lafayette streets. M. A. Seiferth, acting 
rabbi. 



GUIDE. 179 

ASYLUMS. 

Asylum for Destitute Orphan Boys — St. Charles, 
between Dufossat and Belle Castle, Jefferson City, 

Asylum cf the Holy Family — 40 St. Bernard 
Avenue. 

Asylum of the Immaculate Conception — Ram- 
part, northeast corner Elmira. 

Asylum of the Little Sisters of the Poor — 
North Johnson, corner Laharpe, branch 965 Maga- 
zine. 

Beauregard Asylum — Pauline, between St. 
Charles and Rampart. 

Female Asylum of the Immaculate Conception 
— 871 North Rampart, corner Elmira. 

German Protestant Asylum — State, between 
Camp and Chestnut. 

Girard Asylum — Metairie Road, between Conti 
and St. Louis. 

Indigent Colored Orphan Asylum — 393 Dau- 
phine. 

Jewish Widows and Orphans Asylum — Jack- 
son, corner Chippewa. 

Louisiana Retreat Insane Asylum — Henry Clay 
Avenue, between Camp and Coliseum. 

Lutheran Bethlehem Orphan Asylum — North 
Peters, between Andry and Flood. 

Mt. Carmel Female Orphan Asylum — 53 Piety 
Street. 



l80 GUIDE. 

New Orleans Female Orphan Asylum — Clio, be- 
tween Camp and Prytania. 

Poydras Orphan Asylum for Females — Maga- 
zine, between Leontine and Peters Avenue. 

Providence Asylum for Colored Female Chil- 
dren — Hospital corner North Tonti. 

Societe Francaise de Bienfaisance Asylum — St. 
Ann, between Derbigney and North Roman. 

St. Alphonsus Orphan Asylum — Fourth, corner 
St. Patrick. 

St. Anna's Asylum — Prytania, corner St. Mary. 

St. Elizabeth Orphan Asylum — Napoleon Ave- 
nue, corner Prytania. 

St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum — Josephine, cor- 
ner Laurel. 

St Mary's Orphan Boys' Asylum — Chartres, 
between Mozart and French. 

St. Vincent Half Orphan Asylum — Cambronne, 
between Second and Burthe. 

St. Vincent's Orphan Asylum — Magazine, cor- 
ner Race. 

Widows' and Orphans' Father Turgis Asylum 
for Widows and Orphans of the South — St. Claude, 
corner Pauline. 

Boys' House of Refuge — Metairie Road, betwecK 
Bienville and Conti. 

Children's Home (Protestant Episcopal)— Jack- 
son, corner St. Thomas Street. 



GUfDE. I8l 

Children's Home (colored) — 40 South Liberty. 

Faith Home for the Aged and Destitute — 
Pitt, corner Robert. 

Fink Home — Camp, between Antonie and 
Amelia. 

Home for the Aged and Infirm — Carondelet, 
corner Nashville. 

House of Refuge for Destitute Girls — -Annun- 
ciation, corner Calliope. 

House of the Sisters of Christian Charity — 
Constance, between Berlin and Milan. 

Industrial School and Model Farm of Our Lady 
of the Holy Cross — North Peters, corner Reynes. 

Little Sisters of the Poor — North Johnson, cor- 
ner Laharpe. 

Newsboys' Home — 22 Bank Place. 

Protestant Orphans' Home — Seventh, corner 
Constance. 

Shakespearean Alms House — Rampart, between 
Nashville and Arabella. 

CONVENTS. 

Convent de St. Famille — 172 Hospital. 

Convent of Our Lady of Lourdes — 315 Char- 
tres. 

Convent of Our Lady of Mercy — j6 Chippewa. 

Convent of Perpetual Adoration— Marias, be- 
tween Mandeville and Spain. 



l82 GUIDE. 

Convent of Mt. Carmel — Olivier , corner Eliza. 

Convent of the Benedictine Nuns — 630 Dau- 
phine. 

Convent of the Good Shepherd — Bienville, N. 
Dolhonde and N. Broad. 

Convent of the Redemptionists — Constance, be- 
tween St. Andrew and Josephine. 

Convent of the Sacred Heart — Gretna, 

Convent of the Sacred Heart — 96 Dumaine. 

Convent of the Sisters of Notre Dame — Laurel, 
between St. Andrew and Josephine. 

Convent of the Sisters of the Holy Family — 17 
Orleans. 

Mt. Carmel Convent — 90 Oliver. 

Mt. Carmel Convent — 200 Hospital. 

St. Alphonsus Convent of Mercy — St. Andrew, 
between Constance and Magazine. 

St. Boniface Convent — Lapeyrouse, between 
Miro and Tonti. . 

St. Henry's Convent — Constance, between Milan 
and Berlin. 

St. Joseph's Convent — St. Philip, corner N. 
Galvez. 

St. Mary's Dominican Convent — Dryades, cor- 
ner Calliope. 

St. Mater Doloroso Convent — Cambronne, cor- 
ner Third. 

Ursuline Convent — Norfii Pclers, near Manuel. 



GurDE. 183 

St. Patrick's Convent of Mercy — 139 Maga- 
zine. 

HOSPITALS. 

Charity Hospital — Common, between Howard 
and Locust. 

Hospital de la Famille (for colored widows) — 41 
St. Bernard Avenue. 

Hotel Dieu — Common, between Bertrand and 
South Johnson. 

Luzenburg Hospital — 431 Elysian Fields. 

Smallpox Hospital — South Hagan Avenue, 
between Canal and Common. 

INFIRMARIES. 

Circus Street Infirmary — 132 and 134 South 
Rampart. 

Touro Infirmary — Prytania, between Amelia 
and Delachaise. 

Infirmary of the Sisters of Charity — Hotel 
Dieu. 

Camp NichoUs' Soldiers' Home — Bayou St. 
John, foot of Esplanade. 

CEMETERIES. 

American — North Basin, between St. Louis and 
Conti. 



l84 GUIDE. 

Carrollton — Between Adams and Lowerline 
streets. 

Cemetery of the Evangelical Lutheran St. John's 
Church — Canal Street, between Anthony and 
Bernadotte. 

Charity Hospital, No, i — Canal Street, between 
Anthony and Metairie Ridge streets. 

Charity Hospital, No. 2 — Metairie Road, be- 
tween Canal and Bienville. 

Cypress Grove — Metairie Road, corner Canal 
Street. 

Fireman's — Canal Street, corner Metairie Road. 

Girod Street — South Liberty, between Perril- 
liat and Cypress streets. 

Hebrew — Elysian Fields Street, near Gentilly 
Road. 

Hebrew Association — Canal, between Anthony 
and Bernadotte streets. 

Hebrew Congregation Dispersed of Judah — 
Canal, between Anthony Street and Metairie Road. 

Hebrew — Jackson, between South Basin and 
South Franklin streets. 

Lafayette, No. i — Washington Avenue, between 
Coliseum and Prytania streets. 

Lafayette, No. 2 — Washington Avenue, be- 
tween South Basin and St. David streets. 

Locust Grove — Sixth, between Locust and Fer- 
ret streets. 



GUIDE. 185 

Masonic — Bienville Street, between Metarie 
Road and Anthony Street 

Metarie Cemetery Association — Canal, between 
St. Patrick and Bernadotte streets. 

Odd Fellows' Rest — Canal Street, corner Meta- 
rie Road. 

Olivier — Verret, corner Market Street, Fifth 
District. 

St. Joseph Orphan Asylum Cemetery — West 
side Washington Avenue, between St. David and 
South Liberty streets, 

St. Louis, No. I — Between North Basin and 
North Liberty. 

St. Louis, No. 2 — Between Custom-House and 
St. Louis, North Robertson and North Claiborne 
streets. 

St. Louis, No. 3 — Esplanade, near Jockey Club 
House. 

St. Mary — Between Adams and Lower, Seventh 
and Eighth streets. 

St. Patrick's, Nos. i and 2 — Canal, between 
Anthony Street and Metairie Road. 

St. Patrick's, No. 3 — Metairie Road, between 
Canal and Bienville streets. 

St. Vincent — North side St. Patrick, between 
St. David and Green streets, Jefferson. 

St. Vincent de Paul — Between Louisa and Piety, 
Urquhart and Villere streets. 



1 86 GUIDE. 

Greenwood — Metairie Road, corner Conti Street. 

National Cemetery — Cbalmette. 

Vallence Street — North side Rampart, between 
Vallence and Bordeaux streets. 

William Tell — Tenth, between Lavoisier and 
Nerota streets, Gretna. 

STREET CAR LINES TO EXPOSITION. 

\_Separate cai^s are provided for sviokiiig and a7'e 
indicated by their signboards?^ 

ANNUNCIATION STREET LINE, RED CARS. 

Start from Canal and Camp, up Tchoupitoulas 
and Annunciation. Return by Chippewa, An^ 
nunciation and South Peters. Red light at night; 
every five minutes. 

CANAL AND COLISEUM LINE, GREEN CARS. 

Start from head of Canal Street, out Canal, up 
Carondelet, Clio, Coliseum, Felicity, Chestnut, 
Louisiana Avenue and Magazine. Return by 
Magazine, Louisiana Avenue, Camp, Calliope and 
St. Charles. Green light at night ; every live 
minutes. 

CAMP AND PRYTANIA LINE. 

Yellow cars ; at night red light ; every five 
minutes. Start from Clay Statue, up Camp and 



GUIDE. 187 

Prytania. Return by Prytania, Poeyfare, Maga- 
zine and Canal. 

MAGAZINE STREET LINE. 

Green cars ; at night white light ; every two 

minutes ; after midnight every hour. Start from 

Clay Statue, up Camp and Magazine. Return by 
Magazine and Canal. 

CARROLLTON LINE. 

Green cars ; at night green light ; every five 
minutes. Starts from Baronne and Canal, up 
Baronne, Delord and St. Charles to station, where 
dummy engines take the cars to the Exposition 
Grounds and CarroUton. Return by the same 
route. 

TCHOUPITOULAS LINE. 

Every five minutes; green cars; green lights. 
Start from Canal and Camp and thence up Tchoup- 
itoulas. Return by same route. 

In progress : Steam cars from corner Hagan 
Avenue and Canal to the Exposition. Steamers 
also leave the head of Canal street for the Expo- 
sition. 

REMAINING STREET CAR LINES. 

^ Jackson Street Line every five minutes ; red 



I«« GUIDE. 

cars and red lights. Start from Baronne and Ca- 
nal, up Baronne, Delord, St. Charles and Jackson 
to Gretna Ferry Landing. Return by same 
route. 

CANAL AND CLAIBORNE STREET LINE. 

Yellow cars ; red lights ; every five minutes. 
Start from head of Canal Street, out Canal, 
up Claiborne, up Elysian Fields, down Ur- 
quhart to Lafayette Avenue. Return by St. 
Claude, Elysian Fields, Claiborne and Canal. 

CANAL AND COMMON. 

Yellow cars ; white lights ; every five minutes. 
Start from head of Canal, out Canal, Rampart 
and Common to station to Rocheblave street. Re- 
turn by Common, Basin and Canal. 

GIROD AND POYDRAS. 

Every five minutes; yellow cars; green lights. 
Start from head of Common Street, thence out 
Front, Girod, Claiborne and Common to Roche- 
blave Station. Return by Common, Claiborne, 
Perdido, Poydras and Fulton. 

CANAL STREET LINE. 

Green cars and white light ; every seven min- 



GUIDE. 189 

utes. Start from Clay Statue, out Canal to Green- 
wood and Metairie Road Cemeteries. Return by- 
same route. 

ESPLANADE STREET LINE. 

Yellow cars; red light; every five minufes; 
every hour after midnight. Start from Clay 
Statue, out Canal, Rampart, Esplanade to Louisi- 
ana Jockey Club Race Course. Return by same 
route. 

ESPLANADE AND FRENCH MARKET LINE. 

Yellow cars ; red light ; every eight minutes. 
Start from Custom House and Canal Street, out 
Peters and Esplanade to Jockey Club House and 
Bayou Bridge. Return by same route. 

I LEVEE AND BARRACKS LINE. 

Green cars ; red light ; every five minutes. 
Start from Canal at the Custom House, thence 
out Peters, Lafayette Avenue, Chartres and Po- 
land to Station. Here change cars for the United 
States Barracks (without extra fare). Return by 
Poland, Royal, Lafayette Avenue, Peters and 
Canal. 

RAMPART AND DAUPHINE LINE. 

Red cars ; white light ; every five minutes. 
Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Rampart, Es- 



igO GUIDE. 

planade, Dauphine and Poland to Station, thence 
to Barracks and Slaughter-house. Return by 
Rampart and Canal. 

CANAL, DUMAINE AND BAYOU ST. JOHN LINE. 

Blue cars and blue light ; every five minutes. 
Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Dauphine, Du- 
maine. Bayou St. John and Grand Route, St. 
John to Laharpe Street. Return by Broad, Ursu- 
lines, (every third car by St. Peters) Burgundy 
and Canal. 

CANAL, DUMAINE AND FAIR GROUNDS LINE. 

Green cars ; green lights ; every five minutes. 
Start from Clay Statue, out Canal, Dauphine, 
Dumaine and Broad to Fair Grounds. Return 
by Broad, (every third car by St. Peters Street) 
UrsuHnes, Burgundy and Canal. 

FRENCH MARKET LINE. 

Red cars; red light; every five minutes. Start 
from Decatur, corner Dumaine, out Dumaine and 
Broad to Fair Grounds. Return by Broad, Ursu 
lines and Decatur. 

JACKSON R. R. LINE. 

Red cars ; red light; every five minutes. Start 



GUIDE. 191 



from head ofvElysian Fields, up Royal, St, Charles, 
Delord, Dryades and Clio to Jackson R. R. Depot. 
Return by Erato, Carondelet, Bourbon, Esplan- 
ade and Decatur. ' 

RAMPART LINE. 

Green cars; green light; every five minutes. 
Start from Clay Statue, up St. Charles, Delord, 
Dryades, St. Andrew and Baronne to station on 
Eighth Street. Return by Baronne, Dryades, 
Rampart and Canal. 

CARONDELET STREET LINE. 

White cars; white light; every five minutes. 
Start from Clay Statue, up St. Charles, Delord 
and Baronne to station on Eighth Street. Re- 
turn by Carondelet and Canal. 

BARRACKS AND SLAUGHTER HOUSE LINE. 

Red cars ; white light ; every fifteen minutes. 
Start from station, Rampart, corner Poland, 
thence out Poland, Dauphine, Delery and Peters 
to the Slaughter House. Return by Peters, 
Flood, Dauphine and Poland. 

CANAL STERET DUMMY RAILWAY. 

Start from Canal, opposite Carondelet, for 



192 GUIDE. 

Greenwood, Metairie Road and St. Patrick Cem- 
eteries and West End every half hour, returning 
by the same route. 

RAILROAD STATIONS. 

Shell Beach Railway — Corner St. Claude and 
Elysian Fields. Ticket ofifice at station. 

Mobile & Ohio — Head of Canal Street. Ticket 
office opposite St. Charles Hotel. 

New Orleans, Spanish Fort & Lake Railroad — 
Corner Canal and Basin streets. Ticket office at 
station. 

New Orleans City & Lake Railroad (West End) 
— Canal, opposite Carondelet. Ticket office on 
cars. 

Ponchartrain Railroad (Old Lake End or Milne- 
burg) — Corner Elysian Fields and Chartres Street. 
Ticket office at station. 

Illinois Central or Great Jackson Route — Head 
of Calliope Street. Ticket office corner Canal and 
Carondelet. 

Louisville & Nashville — Head of Canal and 
Levee. Ticket office under St. Charles Hotel and 
at station. 

Mississippi Valley Railroad — Jackson Depot 
head of CaUiopc. Ticket office at 61 St. Charles 
Street. 

New Orleans and North Eastern (Queen and 



GUIDE. 193 

Crescent) — Corner Levee and Cotton Press Street. 
Ticket office St. Charles Street, opposite St. Charles 
Hotel. 

Southern Pacific and Star & Crescent — Head of 
Esplanade and Levee. Ticket office corner of 
Magazine and Natchez. 

Texas & Pacific — Head of Terpsichore Street 
and Levee. Ticket office 47 St. Charles Street. 

FERRIES TO ALGIERS. 

From head of Canal Street. 

From head of St. Ann Street. 

From head of Barracks Street. 

Every twenty minutes ; fare five cents. 

Morgan's Louisiana & Texas Railroad Ferry, from foot of Esplan- 
ade Street, on departure of train for railroad depot at Algiers. 

The following ferries are skiffs, or sail boats, carrying persons when 
called ; fare lo cents each way ; 

Free Town Ferry — Head of Richards Street. 

Louisiana Avenue Ferry to Harvey's Canal (a tug) — Head of Lou- 
isiana Avenue. 

Slaughter House Ferry — From the Slaughter House and United 
StateslBarracks. 

Gretna Ferry— To the Oak Ames Plantations, foot of Upper Line 
Street. 

STEAMERS FOR UPPER AND LOWER 
COASTS AND DOMESTIC PORTS. 

For Bayou Sara, Port Hickey, Baton Rouge, Donald- 
sonville and way landings — Steamboats Edward J. Gay and Corona 
leave wharf below Canal Street Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and 
Saturdays. 



194 GUIDE. 

For Bayou LiaFourche, Coast Plaquemine and Donald- 

sonville — Steamboats Whisper and Keokuk, daily at 12 M., from 
foot of Conti Street. 

For HJimpton Point and way landings — Str. Mabel Comeaux, 
Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 12 M., from foot of Conti Street, 
For Gross Tete Railroad, Baton Kouge, Piaquemine, 
Bayou Goula and DonaldsonTille^Stearaer Clinton, Mon- 
day and Friday, 5 p. M., below Canal. 

Lio^iver Coast— Steamer Godfrey T. Johnson, for Pat Lyon's 
Place and way landings, daily, Mondays excepted, at 3 p. M., head 
of St, Louis Street. 

Lower Coast to Oakrill© — Steamer Lura, daily at 8 a. m,, 
Thursdays excepted, from head of St. Louis Street. 

Lower Coast lor Port Eads, Quarantine Station and 
Forts St. Philip and Jacltson— Steamers Neptune, Alvin and 
Daisy, from head ofConti Street, at 11 A. M., daily except Saturday 
and Sunday. 

For Red River, Colfax, Cane Rirer, Alexandria, Pine- 
vile — Steamer Phil E. Chappell, from head of Conti Street, as adver- 
tised, 

Oachita River— For Oachita City Trenton, Monroe and 
landings — Steamer Poplar Bluff every Wednesday at 5 P. M., from 
wharf below Canal Street. 

Bayou Teche— For St. Martinsville, New Iberia, Jean- 
evette, Baldwin's, Franklin, Centerville, Patterson's 
and all landings — Steamer New Iberia from head of Custom House 
Street, as advertised. 

For Atchafalaja River and landings and Bayou Courta- 
bleau — Steamer Fanchon, Wednesdays at 5 P. M., from head of 
Custom House Street. 

For Viclcsburg, Greenville, Natchez and Davis Bend- 
Steamers J.M. White, Ed. Richardson, Natchez, Tuesday, Thursday 
and Saturday at 5 P. M., from head of Custom-House Street. 

For Cincinnati and Ohio River, as advertised, from head of 
Poydras Street, 

For Memphis, Arkansas City, Greenville and way land- 
ings—Steamers Henry Frank and Chas. P. Choteau leave on alternate 
Thursdays at 5 P. M., from head of Poydras Street. 



GUIDE. 195 

For St. liouis— (Anchor Line)— Steamers City of Bayou Sara and 
City of Baton Rouge, Wednesday and Saturday at 5 P. M., from head 
of Poydras Street. 

For New York— (Cromwell Line)— Steamers Knickerbocker, Hud- 
son, Louisiana and New Orleans, as advertised, from head of Toulouse 
Street. 

For New York— (Morgan's Louisiana and Texas Railroad and 
Steamship Company)— Steamers leave Algiers every Tuesday and 
Friday at 6 P. M. 

Lake Fonchartrain— Steamer New Camelia leaves Milneburg 
on arrival of cars from Fonchartrain depot, Elysian Fields Street, for 
Mandeville, Madisonville and Old Landing. Trains leave above depot 
to connect, Mondays and Thursdays at i P. M., Tuesdays, Fridays and 
Saturdays at 4 P. M. E.xcursions, Wednesdays at 8 A. M. and 6 p. M., 
Sundays at 7 A. M. and 6 P. M. Fare each way, $1.00. Excursions 
over and back, $1.00. 

FOREIGN TRADE. 

The foreign trade which is open to the mer- 
chants of New Orleans can be no better illustrated 
than in the publication of its lines of ocean traffic 
direct with many parts of the world, and particu- 
larly its Central American and Mexican trade. 
More trips to the month are needed, and increasing 
business ere long will bring this about. The Ex- 
position edition of the Times- Democrat on this 
subject says: 

New Orleans stands at the mouth of the greatest river in the world, 
with the greatest tonnage and traffic and the greatest future before it. 
It is midway between the world's two great oceans, midway between four 
continents, two north and south, two east and west, and is finally the 
terminus of at least six of the longest and most important railway trunk 
lines in the world. 



196 GUIDE. 

DISTANCE TO LATIN-AMERICAN PORTS. 

In the point of time and distance to all the ports of the Gulf of Mex- 
ico and Caribbean Sea, to all the ports of Mexico and the West Indies, 
with the exception of a few of the further islands of South America, 
west of Guiana, and to all the countries and islands of the Pacific 
ocean, New Orleans is more favorably situated than any city on the 
American seaboard, and should do the importing and exporting busi- 
ness of these- countries. 

The time between New Orleans and Vera "Cruz is only three days 
via Morgan City ; three and one-half by "way of the passes. Port 
Limon, Costa Rica, is seven days from here, and nme and one-half 
from New York, and Colon the same distance from both cities. Belize 
is three and one-half days from New Orleans ; seven from New York. 

STEAMERS AND SAILING VESSELS. 

We have, during the winter season, two lines of steamers, run 
ning to Vera Cruz and stopping at Bagdad, Tuxpam and Tampico. 
There are also sailing vessels frequently running to Progreso and other 
Mexican ports. 

We have a regular line of steamers to Havana, Key West and Cedar 
Keys. There are besides these nine other Imes, embracing ninety-three 
vessels (steamers), running between this port and Europe, which stop 
at various West Indian and Mexican ports en route to this city or on 
their way home, thus giving us easy and frequent communication with 
them. Thus the West India and Paciric Line (British) stop at nearly 
all the important West Indian ports ; the Mississippi and Dominion 
Line (British) at Havana ; the North German Lloyd (German) also at 
Havana; the Harrison Line (British) among the West Indies and the 
ports of Central and South America ; another line at Porto Rica and 
Cuba ; and the others in similar manner at various ports on the Gulf 
or the Caribbean. 

We have besides these a line of vessels (the Macheca Line) between 
BeHze (British Honduras) and New Orleans, making three trips a 
month ; a hne trading regularly to Port Livingston, on the eastern 
coast of Spanish Honduras, and two other hnes, the Oteri and C. A. 
Fish's steamers, connecting Truxillo and the Bay Islands with this 
port. 

A new line of steamers has just been established between New Or- 



GUIDE. 197 

leans and Nicaragua, placing this city in regular monthly communica- 
tion with the three Caribbean ports of Gracias a Dios, Bluefields and 
San Juan del Norte. 

C. A. Fish's steamers connect New Orleans with Port Limon bi- 
weekly, and thence with the interior by rail. 

Three hnes— Macheca's, Oteri's and Fish's— run between this city 
and Jamaica during the winter season, and one to Port-au-Prince, 
Hayti. 

With the other ports of the Caribbean there is very little communi- 
cation. A line of steamers was recently estabhshed to Laguayra, Ven- 
ezuela, but had to be discontinued on account of the oppressive quar- 
antine. With Venezuela we have now no communication except an 
occasional vessel. 

FOREIGN STEAMSHIP LINES. 

For Liverpool— Compania Mexicana Trasatlantica— Steamers 
Mexico, Oaxaca, Tamauripas, as advertised, from head of St. Marys' 
Street. 

For Trieste, A.ustria— (Ward and Holzapfel's Line)— Steamers 
leave as advertised from head of Jackson Street. 

For Havre— (Antwerp and Bordeaux French Commercial Line)— 
Steamers Dupoy de Lome, Paris, Havre, Rouen, Bordeaux. Nantes, 
and Marseille, as advertised, from head of St. Mary's Street. 

For Bremen, Hamburg, Genoa, Glasgow and London 
—{Mexican Gulf Line)— Steamers leave as advertised from head of 
Washington Street. 

For Ruatan, Truxillo, Utilla, Bonacca, Belfate, Ceiba 
and other ports in Spanish Honduras— (Oteri Pioneer Line)— Steam- 
ers S. Oteri and E. B. Ward, Jr., leave as advertised from head of 
Caliope Street. 

For Florida and Havana— (Morgan Line)— Steamers Hutchinson 
and Morgan leave Algiers as advertised. Passengers take ferry boat 
from head of Elysian Fields Street. 

For Vera Cruz— Steamer Harlan leaves Algiers as advertised. 
Passengers take ferry boat from head of Elysian Fields Street. 

For Central America, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and As- 
pinwall-(New Orleans and Central American Steamship Line.) 



198 GUIDE. 

— Steamship Lucy P. Miller, as advertised, from head of Caliope 
Street. 

For Spanish Honduras ports and the Bay Islands — Steamship 
Kate Carroll, as advertised, from head of Caliope Street 

For Bine Fields and Port Limon — The Costa Rica Steam- 
ship Heredia, as advertised, from head of CaUope Street 

For Puerto Cortez, Omoa, Livingston, Port Barrios, 
S£^,nto Tomas— (New Orleans, Honduras and Guatemala Steamship 
Line)— Steamship Ellen Knight, as advertised, from head of Caliope 
Street. 

For Belize, Livingston, Port Barrios and Truxillo — 
(United States and Central American Steamship Line)— Steamship 
Longfellow, as adrertised, from head of Caliope Street. 

For Belize, Livingston, Port Barrios, Puerto Cortez 
Isabel and Panzos — (New Orleans and Belize Royal Mail Steam- 
ship Company) — Steamers City of Dallas and Wanderer, as advertised, 
from head of Caliope Street. 

For Livingston, Santo Tomas and Puerto Cortez— Steam- 
ship Craigallion leaves as advertised, from Picayune Tier. 

By the New Orleans, Central and South American steamship pass- 
engers are conveyed to Aspinwall, and thence by British, French or 
German mail steamships to the following Atlantic ports : 

Costa Rica— Port Limon. 

Nicaragua — Greytown. 

Colombia— Carthagenia, Sa vanilla Bay and Magdalena River, 
Santa Martha, Rio Hacha. 

Venezuela— Maracaibo, Puerto Cabello, La Guayra, Cumana^ 
Carupano, Bolivar on the Oronoco River. 

British G-uiana — Georgetown, on the Demerara River. 
Dutch Guiana— Paramaribo. 

French Guiana— Cayenne. 

Dutch West Indies— Island Curacao. 

British West Indies— Trinidad, Tobago, Grenada, St. 
Vincent, Barbadoes, Sta Lucia, Montserratt, Antigua, St. Kitts, 
Jamaica. 

French West Indies— Martinique, Gaudeloupe. 

Danish West Indies— Sta. Cruz, St. Thomas. 

Spanish West Indies— Porti Rico, San Domingo, Hayti. 



GUIDE. 199 

By the NewOrleans and South American steamships, passengers and 
freight are conveyed to Aspinwall and thence by the British Steam 
Navigation Company's steamships to the following South Pacific 
ports : 

New Grenada— Beunaventura, Tumaco. 

Ecuador— Esmeraldas, xManta, Ballenita, Guayaquil, Tumbez. 

Peru (via Callao)— Pimentel, Eten, Pascasmayo, Malabrigo, 
Huanchaco, Huacho. 

Peru— Payta, Callao, Tambo de Mora, Pisco, Lomas, Chala,Quilca, 
Islay, Mollendo, IIo, Arica, Pisagua, Mexiilones, Iquique. 

Bolivia— Pabelon de Pica, Huanilos, Tocopilla, Cobija, Antofo- 
gasta. 

Chili— Chanaral, Caldera, Carazal-bajo, Huasca, Coquimbo, 
Valparaiso, Tome, Talcahuano, Lota, Coral (Valdivia), Ancud, Port 
Montt. 

Through first cabin passenger rates from New Orleans to the follow- 
ing south Pacific ports (not including railroad fare across the Isthmus) : 

Buenaventura $ 85 00 

Tumaco 93 75 

Esmeraldas no 00 

Manta 120 00 

Guayaquil 140 00 

Pavta ■ 155 00 

Callao 195 00 

Tambo de Mora and Pisco i97 5° 

Chala 212 50 

Quilca and Mollendo 222 50 

Ilo and Arica 230 00 

Pisaqua, Mexiilones and Iquique 232 50 

Tocopilla and Cobija '. . . 240 00 

Chanaral and Caldera 248 75 

Carazal-bajo and Huasco 255 00 

Coquimbo 258 75 

Valparaiso 265 00 

The fare from New Orleans to 

Aspinwall $ 5° 00 

Carthagena 60 00 

Savanilla 65 00 



200 GUIDE. 



OCEAN DISTANCES BETWEEN NEAR 
PORTS. 

MILES. 

Aspiriwall to Carthagena 2 270 

Carthagena to Savanilla 73 

Savanilla to Santa Martha 46 

Santa Martha to La Hacha 87 

La Hacha to Curacao 264 

Curacao to Porto Cabello 115 

Porto Cabello to La Guayra 66 

La Guayra to Trinidad 340 

Demerara to Trinidad 365 

' ' Barbadoes 430 

Tobago 315 

Trinidad to Jacmel 1130 

Port-au-Prince 1320 

Port-au-Prince to St. Thomas 660 

" SanJuanP. R 994 

Jamaica to Jacmel 255 

Trinidad to Grenada 94 

St. Vincent 178 

' ' Barbadoes 283 

' ' Sta Lucia 230 

' ' Martinique 275 

" Dominica 324 

' ' Gaudaloupe 377 

" Antigua 445 

, • Montserrat 477 

" Nevis 510 

St. Kitis 510 

" Tortolo 639 

" St. Thomas 660 

" San Juan, P. R 720 

BY THE NEW ORLEANS, CENTRAL AND SOUTH AMERICAN STEAM- 
SHIPS. 

Freight and passengers are conveyed to Aspinwall, thence crossing 
the Isthmus by rail proceed from Panama by the Pacific Mail Steam- 
ships to the following ports on the North Pacific Ocean to China, 
Japan, Indian and Australian seas. 



GUIDE. 201 

The distances from Panama are : 

TO. MILES. 

Costa Rica— Punta Arenas 454 

Nicaragua— San Juan del Sur 6io 

Corinto 716 

Honduras— A mapala 779 

San Salvador- La Union 800 

La Libertad 904 

Acajulta 942 

Guatemala — San Jose de Guatemala 1002 

Mexico— San Benito 1121 

Tonala 1223 

Salina Cruz , 1303 

Port Angel 1384 

Acapulco 1591 

Manzanillo 1742 

San Bias 1928 

Mazatlan 2033 

California— San Francisco 3220 



At San Francisco the steamers connect at the following ports, and 
the distance from San Francisco to — 

MILES. 

Washington Territory— Victoria 750 

Tacoma 880 

Olympia 925 

Oregon— Portland , T020 

Sandwich Islands — Honolulu 2100 

Fejee Islands— Kandavan 4900 

New Zealand— Auckland , 6050 

Wellington 6625 

Lyttleton 6795 

Point Chalmers 7000 

New South Wales— Sidney 7200 

Victoria, Australia— Melbourne 7240 

Queensland, Australia— Brisbane 7150 

Rockhampton 7500 

South Australia— Adelaide 8246 

Tasmania— Hobarttown 7600 

Japan— Yokohama 4800 

via (Yokohama) Hiogo S^oo 

" " Nagasaki 5559 

China- (via Hong Kong) Shanghai 6000 

(direct) " 6400 

Malay Pen— Singapore 7857 

India— (via Hong Kong) Penang 8718 

Calcutta 9900 



202 GUIDE. 

Passengers to and from Aspinwall, by European Mail Steamers, are 
twenty-one days on the ocean, while by the New Orleans route, con- 
necting with European Steamers at New York, the sea voyage across 
the Atlantic is reduced to twelve days, and is relieved by a very pleas- 
ant journey of three days by rail from New Orleans to New York. 

OCEAN DIISTANCES FROM NEW ORLEANS. 

MILES. 

To Cuba 2 620 

• ' Tampico 625 

' ' Tuxpan 750 

" Vera Cruz. 1113 

" Coatzocalcos (Eads' Railroad) 900 

" Progresso, Yucatan ' 600 

" Belize (Honduras) 840 

' ' Bay Islands ( Honduras) 900 

" Jamaica (West Indies) 1200 

" Aspinwall (Colombia) 1300 

' ' To Carthagena 1 300 

" Savinilla 1322 

" Curacao 1557 

' ' Trinidad . . : 2085 

" Barbados 2135 



FOREIGN CONSULS AND CONSULAR 
AGENTS AT NEW ORLEANS. 

Argentine Republic— Wallace Ogden, Consul, 179 Common 
Street. 

Austria-Hungary — Baron Meysenberg, Consul, 71 Carondelet. 

Belgium— Anton, J. R. Landauar, Consul, 45 Carondelet. 

Bolivia — Joseph P. Macheca, Consul, Rampart, between Ursulines 
and Hospital. 

Brazil— Allain Eustis, Vice Consul Rampart, between Ursulines 
and Hospital. 

Costa Rica— J. A. Quintero, Consul, 66 Camp. 

Danish— H, F. Clumpp, Consul, 42 Union, First District. 

France — Paul d' Abzac, Consul-General, 92 Royal. 

German Empire — John Knittschnitt, Consul, 163 Carondelet. 

Great Britain— A. de G. de Fonblanque, Consul, 13 Carondelet. 

Greece — N. M. Benachi, Consul, 44 Perdido. 



GUIDE. 203 

Ouatemala— E, Martinez, Consul, 'jj Custom-house. 

Honduras— L. M. Avendano, Consul. 44 Conti. 

Italy— M. C. Marfoschi, Consul, 84 Conti. 

Mexico— M. Zapata Vera, Consul, Room i, 28 Natchez. 

Netherlands— Adolph Schreiber, Consul, 61 Carondelet. 

Norway ond Sweden— B. F. Bengston, Vice Consul, "I" 
Gal liar Court. 

Russia— J. F. Schroeder, Consul, 62 Baronne. 

San Salvador— Em. Martinez, Consul, 77 Custom-House. 

Spain— Arturo Baldasano y Zopete, Consul, Pedro SoHs, Vice 
Consul, 5 Commercial Place. 

Switzerland— Emile Hoehn, Consul, 63 Custom-House. 

United States of Columbia— Em. Martinez, Consul, 77 
Custom-House. 

Uruaguay (Oriental Republic)— Leonard Sewell, Consul, 

25 Carondelet. 
Venezuela— Em. Martinez, Consul, ^^ Custom House. 



204 GUIDE. 

RAILROAD DISTANCES FROM NEW ORLEANS. 

MILES. 

To Atlanta 447 

Austin . 527 

Baltimore 1204 

Boston 1626 

Charleston 803 

Chattanooga 574 

Chicago 9IO' 

Cincinnati 858 

Cleveland, O 1103 

Denver 1616 

El Paso 1075 

Galveston 411 

Houston 361 

Indianapolis . 823 

Jacksonville 743 

Kansas City 977 

Little Rock 529 

Louisville , , 749 

Lynchburg 1020 

Mexico City 1300 

Memphis 394 

Milwaukee 1000^ 

Mobile 140 

Montreal 1698 

Montgomery , 32a 

Nashville 564 

New York 1392 

Niagara Falls 1308 

Norfolk 1224 

Omaha iiio 

Paducah 553 

Pensacola 244 

Philadelphia 1304 

Pittsburg 1171 

Quebec , 1909 

Richmond 1046 

Savannah 734 

Salt Lake City 2123 

San Francisco 2500 

San Antonio 577 

Selma 392^ 

St. Louis 700- 

St. Paul 1324 

Toronto 1365 

Vicksburg 227 

Washington 1163 



GUIDE. 



205 



HIGHEST AND LOWEST PRICES OF MIDDLING UPLAND 

COTTON IN EACH OF THE CALENDAR YEARS 

NAMED AT THE CITY OF NEW YORK. 



HIGHEST 
PRICE. 
YEAR. CENTS. 

1825 27 

1826 14 

1827 12 

1828 13 

1829 II 

1830 13 

X83I II 

1832 12 

1833 17 

1834 16 

1835 20 

1836 20 

1837 17 

1838 12 

1839 16 

1840 10 

1841 II 

1842 9 

1843- •• 8 

1844 9 

1845 9 

1846 9 

1847 .12 

1848 8 

1849 II 

1850 14 * 

1851 14 

1852 10 

1853 II 

1854 10 

1855 II 



LOWEST 
PRICE. 
CENTS. 

13 
9 



HIGHEST 
PRICE. 
YEAR. CENTS. 

1856 12 

1857 15 

1858 13 

1859 12 

i860 II 

1861 28 

1862 68 

1863 88 

1864 190 

1865 122 

1866 52 

1867 36 

1868 33 

1869 35 

1870 25K 

1871 22 

1872 27I 

1873 2l| 

1874 18I 

1875 I7I 

1876 I3I 

^^-77 i3i^ 

1878 12^ 

1879 13I 

1880 13I 

1881 13 

^882 "^xa^ 

1883 Hi 

1884 to ) 

Sept. I. ; ''t^ 



LOWEST 
PRICE. 
CENTS. 

9 
13 

9 
II 
10 
II 
20 

54 
72 

33 
32 
15 K 
16 

25 
15 

i8| 
i3f 
X4| 

i3iV 

10^ 

9i 

loi 
10 



206 



INDEX. 



INDEX. 



African, the, 3. 
Aaron Burr, 14. 
Almonaster-y-RoxasDonAndres II 

Tomb of, 91. 
Algiers, 35, 88. 
Area of City, 44. 
Adah Isaacs Menken. 67. 
Amusements, 65. 

All Saints Day, 80, 8i. 82, 83, 84. 
Academy of Music, 65. 
An Apology, 135, 136. 
Ames Oakes, Estate of, 120. 
Articles Religieux, 100. 
Audubon, 102. 
Art Gallery, 147. 
Asylums, 179, 180, 181. 
Boarding Houses, 157; 158. 
Balcouy Studies, 100. 
Bridge of Sighs, 100. 
"Bull Run Russell" Pen Pictures, 

132, 133, 134. 
Bay St. Louis, 139. 
Battle of Sedan, 68. 
Bienville, 3, 5. 
Biloxi, 5, 6, 9, 140. 
Bayou St. John, 5, 57. 
Battle of New Orleans, 14. 
Butler, General Benjamin F., 24, 

34. 35. 51. 53- 70, 102. 
Headquarters of, 104. 
Bailey, Captain, 28, 29, 31. 
Bell, Captain, 29, 30, 33. 
Benjamin, Judah P., Portrait of, 

35- 
Bank, Old Citizens, loi. 
Banks, 162, 163. 
Beauregard, General G. T. , 39, 

102, 115, 116, 117 126. 
Bull-fight Audience A, 52. 
Black Coffee, 55. 
Biscuit Glace, 56. 
Bayou St. Peter, 57. ♦ 



Benjamin Franklin, Statue of, 51. 
Buftklo Bill's Wild West, 68. 
Boston Club House, 75. 
Boulton Carbons. 93. 
Brush Electric Light, 93. 

CHAS. 
Creoles, The, 105, 106. 
Christ's Church, 107. 
Chasaublere, 100. 
Confederate Silver, Seizure of, loi. 
Civil District Court, 92. 
Coliseum Place, 51. 
Church of St. Ignatius, 91. 
Church of Ivy, 85. 
Cathedral St. Louis, 91. 
Churches, 164, 165, 166, 167, 168, 

169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 

176, 177, 178. 
Convent Ursulines, 7, 63. 
Convents, 18 r, 182. 
Cat Island, 5. 

Compagnie d' Occident, 4, 10. 
Cable, Geo. W. , 8, 105, 119. 
Cession to the United States, 12. 
Chalmette Cemetery, 15, 62. 
Craven, Captain, 30. 
Crozat, Anthony, 4. 
Confederate Ram Manassas, 30,31. 
Confederate General Lovell, 33. 
Connecticut Infantry, 12th, 34. 51. 
Clay, Henry, 49, 173. 
Common Council, 13, 35, 39, 
Custom-House, 69. 
Credit System, 40, 41. 
Congo Square, 52. 
Choctaws, 139. 
Choctaw Squaws, 54. 
Carondelet's Canal, 57. 
Carondelet, Baron de, 3, 12, 57. 
Canal Street, 44, 57. 
Carrollton, 44, 58, 60. 
CarroUton Levee, 59. 



rNDEX. 



207 



Carrollton Gardens, 60. 

City Library, 69. 

City, Debt of, 38. 

Ciry Hall, 51, 73. 

City Government, Expenses of, 35, 

38. 
Court Buildings, 74. 
Cotton Exchange, 75. 
Cotton Presses, 90. 
Cemeteries, 15, 62, 78, 79, 183, 184, 

185, 186. 
Cotton Table, 205. 
Drysdale, Dr., 107. 
Devil's Swamp, 139. 
De Soto, 4. 
Duke of Orleans, 9. 
Duncan, Confederate General, 16, 27 
Drainage, 42, 43. 
Dime Museums, 67. 
Dagos, 54. 
Date Palm, 98. 

Davis, Jefferson, Ex- President, 5. 
Dummy Engines, Queer, 58. 
Draw Poker, 97. 
De Pcuilly, M. J. N.. 72 
East Pascagonla, 140. 
Exposition, the, 141, 142, 143, 144, 

145, 146, 147, 148, 149, 151, 152, 

153. 154. 155. 156- 
Exposition, the. Special Features 

of, 150, 151. 
Exposition, the. Outside Featur s 

of. 152. 
Excursions, Local, 153. 
English Turn, 126. 
Eads, Captain, 128. 
Exchange Place, 100, 
Election Day in New Orleans, 132. 
Everett's Artillery, 34. 
Early, General Jubal A., 39, 115, 

1x6, 117. 
Esplanade Street, 61, 62. 
Exchanges, 160. 
Express Companies, 160. 
Farragut, 17, 26, 28, 29. 31, 32, 

16, 19, 70, 35, 127. 
Franco-Spanish residences, loi. 
Fort Pike, 139. 
Factory and Mill, 148. 



Ferries, 193. 

French Market, 107, 

Fort Eads, 126. 

Father Marquette, 4. 

Fille a la Cassettes, 7, 8, 9. 

Fort Jackson, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 

22, 24, 25, 27, 28, 29, 31, 126. 
Fort St. Philip, 16, 22, 29, 31, 126. 
Fish, Varieties of, 56. 
Fisk Free Library, 68. 
Faranti's Theatre, 66, 67. 
Foreign Vessels, 88, 90. 
Foreign Trade, 195, 196, 197. 
Foreign Steamship Lines, 198,199. 
Faro, 98. 

French Opera House, 65, 66, 
Foreign Consuls, 202, 203. 
Gallery Rooms, 103, 104, 
Gulf Coast, 137, 
Governor Perier, 138, 
Guide to New Orleans, 157, 
Galvez, 7, 11, 
Great Fire, 12. 
Gaines, Mrs. General Mvra Clark, 

14. 38. 
Grunnew&ld Hall, 6j. 
Gascons, 52. 

Grand Army of the Republic, 163. 
Grand Opera House, 65, 
General Grimes, Portrait of, 92. 
" Grand Hazard, ' 97. 
Gambling Houses, 94, 96, 97, 98. 
Gumbo Soups, 56. 
Holland, Rev. Dr., 109. 
Horticultural Hall, 146. 
Hospitals, 183. 
Hatch, General, 105, 
Hunt, General, 105. 
Holy Land, 108. 

Higgins, Confederate Colonel, x6. 
Harriet Lane, the, 19, 27. 
History, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 

13, 14, 15, 16, 17. 18, 19, 20, 21, 

22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 

31. 32. 33- 34. 35- 
Haugery, Margaret, 51. 
Hotel Roval, 71. 
Hotels, 157. 
Iberville, M. D., 5. 



208 



INDEX. 



India Company, 7. 

Infirmaries, 183. 

Jockey Club House, 5, 61, 62, 113. 

Jesuits, 7. 

Jackson, General Andrew, 14, 15, 
32. 70, 73- 

Jackson Square, 10, 11, 35, 61. 

Jetties, to the, 125, 126, 127, 128, 
129. 

Kernochen, H. P. , Plantation, 126. 

Keno, 94, 96, 97. 

Lotteries, 109, no, in, 112, 113, 
114, 115, 116, 117, 118. 

Louisiana State Lottery, 112, 113. 

Livres Classiques, 100. 

Lumber Yards, 102. 

Louis IX, 6. 

Louis XIV, 4, 5, 6. 

La Salle, 4, 54. 

Lunches, 56. 

Lee Place, 51. 

Lee, General Robert E., Monu- 
ment to, 51. 

Louisiana Club House, 75. 

Levee, the, 87. 

Law, George, 4, 9. 

Louisiana Division Northern Army 
of Virginia, Monument of, 85. 

Lafayette Square, 51. 

Libraries, 68. 

Miller Joaquim, 120. 

Myrtle Grove Plantation, 127. 

Mardi Gras, 129. 

Mystic Krewe of Comus, 130. 

Mermaid Legend of, 138, 

Mexican Headquarters, 148, 149. 

Main Building, 143. 

Music Hall, 144. 

Marquette, Father, 4, 

Mississippi River, 7. 

Moniteaur de la Louisiane, 12. 

Mass. Infantry, Thirty-first, 34. 

Mexicans, 49, 53, 107. 

Mexican Exchange, 76, 
" Doctor, no. 

Markets, 53, 54, 55. 161, 162. 

Market, Old French, 53. 

Monuments, 49, 50, 51, 52, 85. 

Margeret's Place, 51. 



Mum ford, Wm. B., 70. 

Milnebury, 64. 

Marigny Families of, 92. 

Mandeville " " 92. 

Masonic Halls, 74. 

Marshall, Chief Justice, Bust of, 

92. 
National Cemetery, 15, 62. 
Newspapers, 77. 
Nuns, Ursulines, 7. 
Orleans Park, 105. 
Opera House, 107. 
Orange Plantation, nearest, 126. 
Ornements d'e glise, 100. 
Old Citizens' Bank Building, 101. 
Old Book Stores, 103, 
Ocean Springs, 140. 
O'Reilly, General Alexander, 3, 10, 

II. 33- 
Orleans Market, 53. 
Oysters, 56, 57. 
Oyster Smacks, 53. 
Old French Market, 53. 
Old Spanish Fort, 64. 
Odd Fellows' Hall, 74. 
Ocean Distances, 200, 201 , 202. 
Parks, 50. 

Palmer, Rev. Dr., 109. 
Plaquemine Parish Rice Crop, 126. 
Palm Date, 98, 99. 
Pascagoula Bay, 138. 
River, 138. 
Pearl River, 139. 
Pass Christian, 140. 
Pontalba, Baroness, 11, 92. 
Poor Whites, 87. 
Poker, 97. 

Personal Property, Valuation of, 37. 
Post Office, 161. 
Poydras Julien, 7 
Packenham, General, 16. 
Porter, Captain, 19, 22, 25, 32. 
Population, 36. 
Prominent Buildings, 69. 
Portugese Sailors, 52. 
Parish Prison, 53. 
Ponchartrain Lake, 56, 57, 62, 139 
Pickwick Club House, 75. 
Produce Exchange, 76. 



INDEX. 



209 



Parrocchia Italiana, 93. 

Rigolets, 139. 

Roller Rinks, 163. 

Rue Royale, 39, 93, 94, 95, loi, 

139, 219, 221. 
Real Estate, Valuation of, 36. 
Rouge et Noir, 97. 
Roval Mexican Automaton Show, 

68. 
Russell, Wm. Howard (Bull Run), 

71- 

Restaurants, 55, 56, 159. 
Railroad Stations, 192, 193. 
Railroad Distances, 204. 
Square 75, Rue de Orleans, 100. 
Street Car Lines, 186, 187, 188, 

189, 19°' 19I' 192- 
Steamers for Domestic Ports, 193, 

194. 
Stella Plantation, 127. 
Ste. Rosalie Plantation, 127. 
Sunday m New Orleans, 106, 107, 

108, 109. 
Sunday League, 108. 
Souville, 5. 
Sugar Plantation, 12, 120, 121, 

122, 123, 124, 125. 
Soule Pierre, 34, 70, 72. 

" " Bust of. 92. 

Spanish Cabildo, 35, 61, 92 
Slaves, Valuation of, 37. 
Streets, 44, 45, 46, 47. 
Stone Pavements, 41. 
State Auditor, Warrants of, 40. 
Saloons, 57, 58. 
Statues, 50. 

St. Louis Cemetery, 62. 
Shell Beach Railroad, 63, 126. 
Spanish Fort, 64. 
St. Charles Hotel, 34, 70. 
St. Charles Theatre, 65. 



St. Charles Street, 108. 

St. Charles Avenue, 60. 

St. Louis Cathedral, 61, 91. 

St. Louis Hotel, 72. 

St. Louis Cemetery, 113. 

Spanish Cavaliers, Tomb of, 92. 

Stevedores, 87. 

Steamboats Discharging Cargoes, 
87. 

" Senate,'' the, 96, 97. 

Suburban Places, 58. 

Sicillian Fruiterers, 52, 54. 

Trinity Church, 106. 

Thompson, Bishop Hugh Miller, 
108. 

Terre au Boeuf, 126. 

Telegraph Companies, 161, 

Tivolis, 94. 

Tulane Hall, 74* 

" Twenty-one," 97. 

UUoa, 10. 

United States Barracks, 7, 59, 62. 

Ursulines, 7. 

" Old Convent, 100. 

United States Mint. 33, 61, 70. 

United States Custom-House, 69. 

United States and State Exhibits, 

University of Louisiana, 74. 

Valuation of Real Estate, 36. 

Valuation of Slaves, 37. 

Valuation of Personal Property, 37. 

Villere Charles Plantation, 126. 

Wisconsin Infantry, Fourth, 34. 

Warrants of State Auditor, 40. 

West End, 63. 

Wharves, 88. 

Washington Artillery Armory, 74. 
" Monument, 85. 

Waring, Col. Geo. E., 105, 119. 

Young Men's Christian Associa- 
tion, 69. 



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